London

Travel Blog: United Kingdom: Part Three- Pack It Up

Hi! Welcome back! As per usual, when it comes to my multipart blog series, this is your pre-blog reminder to go back & read my previous two installments before continuing down the page below. If you’re in need of the two previous installments to this series they will be linked just below this paragraph & we will see you back here once you’re all caught up. If on the other hand, you are an avid reader of mine, thank you as always for your patronage, feel free to skip on to the title card below! Cheers!


THE UNITED KINGDOM

PART THREE:


Day Seven

We last left off in Dumfries at the home of the Donowhos. In spite of the more than gracious hosts they always are & the loveliness that Scotland always provides, it was time to head back down to London. We loaded up the car fairly early in the desire to beat the evening London traffic. Our plan was to sweep in from the Northeast side of London, drop our bags in Covent Gardens, take the car back to Heathrow, & take the tube back into London, more on that later.

If you have read anything from my previous UK trips you’ll know that I require a stop on the road south out of Scotland. Thanks to the gents that played the original Parkfest set with me back in the day, Tebay Services, Farmshop, & Kitchen is now a must stop, of course this time it was no different. We stopped to fill-up both the car & our bellies with a buffet style Full English Breakfast before on down the road we went once again.

There’s not too much eventful that happened along the road to London other than a rather rambunctious, down to the wire change of plans. My father had been gracious enough to lend us some of the Hilton Honors points he’d accrued in his travels over the years. I’d had him book our stay the night before at what was meant to be the Doubletree in Russell Square, sat on Southampton Road. However, when I called to confirm the room they had no booking for us anywhere on their computers so I called my dad back to make sure the reservation had been set. Now, let me be very plain that this is not a dig on my father nor is it meant to come across as unappreciative, I just think it’s a rather humorous story that deserves its slot in the annals of my blog page. It’s also worth noting that my father has never been outside of North America, The United Kingdom is entirely foreign to him. He had indeed booked us a reservation, only when he had pulled up “Doubletree, Southampton” that’s exactly what he got, a Doubletree in Southampton.

If you don’t know where Southampton is it’s about a two hour drive Southwest of London, sat on the Southern coast of England. Needless to say that wasn’t going to work so we not set about frantically looking for not outlandishly priced hotels in London that weren’t booked out for the weekend & that number was rapidly dwindling. Forgoing the plan to drop bags at our hotel & instead switching to dropping off the car first we made our way to Heathrow. It was only after returning the car & dropping down into the tube that our reservation at the only available, none lavishly expensive hotel was finally booked. That’s not to say that the hotel wasn’t lavish, it was gorgeous & we ended up at The Waldorf Hilton, London. After settling in to our *toss toss* upgraded room, we slipped down to the basement gym for some quick cardio, dressed for the evening, & went down the road to drop in on our friends Victoria & Rhys.

I had spent most of the day looking scrubby in my travel clothes but what became my official OOTD was the following: a Gold J. Crew Sweater, Blue Tellis AG Jeans, & Grey Suede Calvin Klein Boots.

We rolled up to the now Jones’ flat & before we could even call to be let in, Rhys noticed us through the window. We were buzzed in, climbed the stairs, & were met at the door by the duo & an almost completely empty flat. You see Rhys & Vic had come to the decision that when they left London to fly back to the states for their wedding, they were leaving for good & starting their life together as a married couple in America & when they flew out, the same day as us, it would be their last time in London until they returned for visits at a later date. Needless to say the apartment was quite different from the last time we’d seen it in April.

We sat exchanging stories before asking to see if they wanted to join us at dinner at Seven Dials Market. They politely declined with exhaustion rapidly setting in & Ev & I departed their company for the evening to grab some much needed sustenance.

Seven Dials was moderately busy, but not over the top. We went back & forth trying to decide on dinner but ending up with the same general consensus. Dinner was to be Thai as the main course, Dumplings/Bao as a side, & frozen Israeli beverages to drink. I got Chicken Pad Kee Mao at Yaay Yaay, Evan Papaya Salad. Evan & I both got a Pork Bao & Pork Dumplings at Yum Bun, then the drinks were a Lemon/Mint Slushy & a Blue/Pomegranate Slushy from SHUK. Once dinner was completed we decided to make a night of it. We invited Victoria & Rhys once again but they were already well in bed.

Our first stop of the evening was The Alchemist. A flashy cocktail bar with locations all across The UK, we actually skipped out on the drinks there this trip, I had my eyes set on one thing, their cocktail book. Once attained we headed over to EVE for our nightcap(s).

If you read my last UK blog from April you would’ve seen me rave & rant about Frog By Adam Handling. You also would have read about their sister bar, locked in the basement, feeding off their scraps, EVE. That last sentence is not a jab, EVE literally feeds off the kitchen scraps from Frog which it uses to create new & interesting gastronomy for the bar & the cocktails they sling. We only dipped out toes into EVE last time, this time we claimed a table & sat in for a while.

As far as drinks went, we had a few. I got the Amber Fizz (Johnnie Walker Black, Maraschino, Banana, Berries, & London Essence Ginger Ale), followed by the Lazarus (Appleton 12 Year, Santiago Blanco 3 Year, La Yuzu, Verjus, & Guava), but the star of the night, tasting like a Salted Caramel Espresso Martini was the Little Rise (Santiago 8 Year, Galliano, Coffee, Caramel, & Bitters). Evan has some form of Colada that was a special of the evening & an Il Conte (Patron Reposado, Kumquat, Madeira, Smoked Cocoa Nibs, & Prosseco DOCG).

We sat in the basement bar for around an hour & a half before we decided it was time to call it a night & off we went back to our hotel just down the street.

End Of Day Seven


Day Eight

Thursday we managed to sleep in a little big. I was still desperately craving a workout so we booked something in the early afternoon at Barry’s Soho. Needing caffeination & craving a croissant we made our way over to Monmouth Coffee Company where we both had a Pour Over, I got an Almond Croissant, & Ev got a Chocolate. We sat outside in the drizzle because it was honestly tolerable & we’d actually gotten to wear the raincoats we packed for once!

After our coffees & pastries we still had a little bit of time to burn so we went & perused the shops near Covent Gardens. Starting first in Barbour, I tried on several flannels & a sweater or two before designating it a loss for the day. Across the street at Scotch & Soda, where I’d had so much luck the previous trip, we tried on a varied assortment of the store but never landed on anything that we were head over heels for so off we went towards Soho for our appointment with Barry’s Bootcamp.

The class was a Barry’s Lift class which neither of us had ever taken, the sole difference between it & a traditional Barry’s class being that there was no cardio. That didn’t mean the class was easy, in fact it was one of the hardest ones I’d done, simply because of the massive amount of core work it entailed.

After class we grabbed protein shakes from the shake bar & made our way back through the city to our hotel to shower & get ready for the rest of our day ahead.

My “last night in London” OOTD was a Green Rag & Bone Sweater, Khaki Tellis AG Jeans, & White Goodfellow Trainers, a similar outfit, yet still different, from the one I wore for my Living Room Session two nights prior.

Vic & Rhys had to be out of their flat by 3 PM so we met them just across the street at their local pub, The Round House, where they sat surrounded by luggage, still working remote while sharing a pint. We sat with them awhile until hunger set in & we swung around the corner to Old Chang Kee for one of their “world famous” Singapore Style Curry Puffs! Ev & I both got our own Chicken & Curry Puff which we enjoyed immensely, then walked over to The Espresso Room for a Flat White & another Almond Croissant but unfortunately they were out of the latter.

While Victoria wrapped work, Evan, Rhys, & I formulated a plan for the evening. The soon-to-be Jones were staying at Heathrow for the night but still wanted to kick around London with us for a bit so we decided that we would drop their luggage off at our hotel room just around the corner, go about our business, & they could return with us, grab their stuff, & hop the Piccadilly Line to Heathrow. Victoria ended up moving one last appointment we had up so that we could all go out so Evan, Rhys, & I sat enjoying The Waldorf’s Cocktail & Canapé hour while we waited sat pretty in the Executive Lounge (*adjusts monocle). Hey, free booze is free booze. When Victoria arrived we sat enjoying the hors d’œvres for a while longer before hopping a cap over to Tayēr + Elementary.

T+E might sound familiar to any of you that are return readers of mine, it’s another spot we hit back in April & just happens to be considered one of the best bars in the world. Now if your plan is to say that we weren't too adventurous with new things this trip to London I think you’d be slightly mistaken. You see, much like EVE, Tayēr + Elementary’s menu is constantly changing & evolving inviting new experimental gastronomy into the mix so no two people’s experience at either place will ever be exactly the same. We also had only sampled “Elementary’s” menu last time as the two have completely separate menus & feels.

Though residing in the same building Elementary is the front bar & Tayēr the back. Sat around a large, chef’s table/tasting menu type set up I would say Tayēr is the sophisticate while Elementary the playful lending more towards the neighborhood bar feel.

We were actually the first people to enter Tayēr that night. Sat on the corner we each began picking out cocktails as well as little finger foods to nibble on. I typically go for the recommendations of the staff & this was no exception. I got the Haucate as well as a drink that consisted of Etna, Mandarin, & Pachouli & a Makrut Lime cocktail. In addition we ordered a Piña Colada Cheesecake to split, Prawn Couchette’s, & some form of Corn Dog, of which I cannot remember its contents.

Fairly buzzed we all stumbled back into a cab & returned to Soho & The Waldorf where The Jones’s retrieved their bags & Evan & I went off in search of more food.

Really wanting Nando’s seeing as it would be good & quick we made our way that way. The site said they closed at 10:30 but for whatever reason they’d decided at 9 PM to call it early so on our search for food went. We ended up happening to pass Blacklock, a chop shop that I had had on my “travel list” from the last go round. Blacklock readily let us in & we were shown to a seat near the entrance.

We were truly looking for an abbreviated dinning experience, feeling almost entirely ready to call it a night but still rather famished so we just threw in & went with the “All In,” a pre-chopped selection of Beef, Pork, & Lamb, along with two sides & Grilled Flat Bread. We devoured it though quickly the stuffiness of the basement restaurant, the heat, & the meat began to get to us & we had to evacuate the premises.

I truly wish that I could give Blacklock more of a glowing review, I do. The food was very good & the diversity of menu options, lengthy, but I fear falling just short of having a full blown panic attack in their primacies due to the stuffiness of the place, I’d be hard pressed to feel warm & fuzzy about it.

Anyway, feeling stuffed, but still wanting to satiate the dessert stomach we went in search of ice cream/gelato. Unfortunately all of the shops were closed so we called it a night, returning to the hotel defeated.

End Of Day Eight


Day Nine

Our last day in London we pushed that “late checkout” to the limit. We awoke & packed before we decided to make one last hoorah of London & heading over to Heathrow. We had stumbled upon Abuelo the day prior & I had made some joke about the restaurant simply being called “grandpa.” It decided to pull a full on Uno Reverse & say “look who’s laughing now” as it popped up for one of the top listed brunch spots in Covent Garden, so it became the destination of where we were to break our day’s fast.

Surprisingly enough, Abuelo is an Australian coffee shop, well, Australian with South American influences, & it did not disappoint. Evan & I order to share, something savory & something sweet, of which we would each eat half of then swap plates. Evan order our savory course, The Big Bondi (Avocado, Dukkah, Goat Cheese, Pickled Jalapeños, Cress & Flowers, & Egg atop Sourdough) & I the sweet; Banana Bread w/ Caramelized Cinnamon Peaches, Dulce De Leche Marscarpone, & Ginger Biscuit Crumb, in addition to a Cappuccino & a Pour Over respectively.

After a glorious breakfast we made our way to Tesco to grab a goodie bag for our flight attendants & made our way back to The Espresso Room in hopes that the Almond Croissant had made its triumphant return, it hadn’t, they were still out. So we shuffled, defeated, back to The Waldorf to collect our things & hop the tube to Heathrow.

Normally this is where I would leave you all. I would conclude the travel with our last meal or interesting feat we accomplished but in fact the intrigue of our voyage is not yet over. About halfway between Covent Garden & Heathrow the tube operator came over the speakers & announced the the Piccadilly Line would not be making its normal stop at the terminal that feeds Heathrow Terminal 2 & 3. As we were in Terminal 5 this was of no concern to us, though the rest of the passengers seemed less pleased. After each subsequent stop the same announcement was made until it changed, subtly. I truly think it was a slip of the tongue but the announcer added “due to its evacuation for public safety” to his announcement of the lapse in stop. I immediately pulled out Twitter.

The reason the train would not be stopping at Terminal 2 & 3 was that there had been a bombing threat upon Terminal 2 & the entirety of Terminal 2 had been evacuated. There never ended up being an actual bomb, as far as we know, but when we rolled through the train station for those two stops the feeling of unease in the car was palpable. The terminal was like a ghost town, not a person in sight. It was eerie. I’m just glad that no one got hurt & the threat itself ended up being nothing, again, as far as we know.

Off to Terminal 5 we went where security was a breeze & we sat in peace munching on Smoked Salmon Sandwiches until it was once again time to depart the dear United Kingdom.


End Of Day Nine


End Of Part Three


End Of Blog

Travel Blog: The United Kingdom-Part Three: There & Back Again

Welcome back to my United Kingdom travel blog! If you’ve made it this far, congrats, you’re onto the last part!!! If you’re reading this like “last part?! whaaaa?!” then I invite you to go read through Part One & Two before returning to finish out this most epic of trilogies. You can find links to both here:

Part One

Part Two

All caught up? Great! Let’s move on to Part Three then!



Part Three:

There & Back Again


Day Ten

We departed Dumfries right around 8 AM, our rental was due back in Camden by 5 PM & we had a long drive down from Scotland through England to make. We unfortunately didn’t get to say goodbye to Carolann on our way out but Ali & the rest of the crew definitely gave us the royal send off.

Our first stop on the way down is a must hit if you’re traveling up or down the Northwest coast of England, Tebay. I was first introduced to Tebay by the Liverpool/Manchester gents who played RNLI Park Fest with me back in 2019 who try to make it a stop anytime they play up north. Tebay, while technically a small English town, is also a service center. For my American folks think a truck stop but way way way way way nicer. Tebay Services, Farmshop, & Kitchen has two locations; one northbound, one southbound. It is exactly as the name states, a service stop in addition to a restaurant & shop. The beautiful thing about Tebay, aside from the immaculate view it offers, is that all of the food served comes from within only a handful of miles from the stop.

We arrived around 10:30 AM & breakfast was still in full swing so we went the full on English Breakfast route! I had Scrambled Eggs, Beans, Cumberland Sausage, Roasted Tomato & Mushroom, Haggis, Bacon, A Raisin Scone w/ Orange Marmalade, & A Drip Coffee. Evan did the same sans Mushroom, Scone, & Haggis & also got a Pork Sausage. After taking in breakfast with a gorgeous view of the English countryside we walked around their Farmshop! It’s really almost three shops put into one. There’s a genuine market selling uncooked ingredients from around the area, there’s a local clothing/item section, & there’s a section dedicated to foods distinctly from The United Kingdom including small batch chocolatiers, distillers, bakers, etc.

By the time we’d finished up & were getting ready to go the hand pie stand had opened up so we grabbed a few of those for the road. I got a Chicken & Mushroom Pie, Evan got the Onion & Cheese. We grabbed gas & a few drinks & down the road we went towards London.

To be entirely frank I was quite nervous about driving in London, especially since we’d be arriving around rush hour. When I picked up the rental our drop off options were Camden, Tower Heights, Gatwick, or Heathrow & I didn’t feel like driving an hour outside of London just to spend an hour & a half on the tube with luggage felt economical, so Camden it was.

I was pleasantly surprised by how easy I found driving in London rush hour, it was far easier than New York City even with the inclusion of driving on the other side of the road. We did end up dropping off the car a little late but the agency couldn’t have cared less. From there we walked to Euston Station & hopped the southbound train to Covent Gardens back to Victoria & Rhys’s.

Seeing as it was now around 6 PM the hunt for dinner began. We were presented with the idea of Seven Dials Market, a coalition of street food vendors that had come together in an old cucumber & banana storage warehouse, a theme that is still prevalent throughout. At Seven Dials Market you can order drinks from the bar to be delivered to your table but as far as food goes you need to go to the different stalls to picket what you want. I grabbed an Iced Masala Chai from Chai Guys & we began the task of picking which of the over a dozen food options we wanted.

Evan & I decided on splitting a few things. We were really craving a burger so we went downstairs to Truffle but found that we couldn’t decide between The Truffle Burger (Beef & Bacon Patty w/ Raclette Cheese, Crispy Onions, Fig Jam & Truffle Mayo) or the Cheeseburger (Aged Beef/Bacon Patty, Cheese, Pickles, Lettuce, & Truffle Sauce) so we got both in addition to some Truffle Parmesan Fries. On top of the burgers there was also a dumpling stand that was calling our names so we got an order of Pork Bao & Pork & Chive Dumplings from Yum Bun! All of the food was outstanding & for dessert Victoria got us all a Chocolate Hazelnut Finger Doughnut from Longboys to share!

Practically bursting at this point we waddled back to the flat, stopping at Tesco to grab some snacks (yes that includes Strawbs) & drinks to enjoy later on when we sat down to watch Shutter Island before calling it a night!


Day Eleven

In desperate need of a workout after almost a week without we joined Victoria at Barry’s Soho for their 8:45 Full Body class. Following my “I can’t workout in the morning rule unless I’ve had caffeine & food prior” I ended up booking double floor. I knew running wasn’t going to happen. I’d done a touch of carb loading before just to be safe though, having gone downstairs to Tesco to pick up an energy drink & some fresh baked goods from their untouched morning selection. Scarfing down a soft pretzel & a croissant along with an apple the three of us walked to Barry’s (Rhys went once again with his trainer).

The class was hard! It was a circuit set meaning it built. Four total exercises per circuit, each targeted for a minute at as many as possible before combining them for two. We ended up walking back separate from Victoria because she was in need of a shower & we had planned to wait until we got back to the flat to bathe.

Along the way we had decided that another caffeine source was necessary so we walked over to WatchHouse. The barista recommended the Iced Peruvian Pourer so that’s what we got! The coffee had a nice almost bread & jam taste, very similar to my Raisin Scone w/ Orange Marmalade the morning before. It smacked! We walked back the rest of the way before showering & dressing for the day.

We had been prompted with a text of “Borough Market tomorrow?” on our drive back to London the day prior. Victoria had a mind for a Sausage Roll from The Black Pig & I, for one, am always down for a trip to Borough Market so that is where our pre-afternoon began!

We walked the same path that Evan & I had taken the week before; past St. Paul’s, over the Millennium Bridge, by The Globe. Borough Market was a zoo! There were far more people there this Saturday than the one prior which was surprising seeing as the previous had been Easter weekend.

We made a beeline for Bread Ahead as our glowing doughnut review had left V&R wanting. I returned for the Blackcurrant Cheesecake, Evan for the Pistachio, V&R split a Blueberry Jam, thought naturally they all got passed around between the four of us.

Rhys got Cod & Chips from Fish!, Victoria went after her Sausage Roll, & Evan & I got in line for the special at Northfield Kitchen, an Aged Corned Beef Sandwich on Rye with Pickles, Spicy Mustard, Swiss, & Cole Slaw. We all sat around on a barricade munching on our lunch & sipping Prosecco Punch but heading over to hop the Uber Boat back up the river to Westminster.

V&R headed back to the flat but Evan & I decided to continue on back to Soho to hit up Carnaby, Regent, & Bond. We wafted in & out of a few shops, most of which clearly didn’t get the memo that the weather was nice out because they were blasting the heat like it was midwinter. After mostly coming up dry in our shopping escapades we ended up at Scotch & Soda where I almost bumped smack into Tom Felton & his girlfriend.

I have had an obsession with this sweater that was shown in one singular scene in one of the later seasons of a show that used to be on called “Penny Dreadful.” It’s an oversized button shoulder turtleneck sweater & while I still have yet to find something exact, I did manage to find two button shoulder sweaters at Scotch & Soda that worked for me! I was ecstatic to discover them & purchased them immediately & naturally I wore one of them to dinner later! However, if you or a loved one know where I can find my oversized button shoulder turtleneck sweater, please don’t hesitate to let me know!

Post shop we took ourselves a little nap, having woken up at 7:30 AM & walked hither & yon. It was about 6 PM by the time we’d made it back to the flat & we he had a 9:30 dinner reservation at Frog by Adam Handling to look forward to! A glass or two of red wine made that slip into a nap very, very easy.

I’d made the executive decision to try to get to Frog about thirty minutes early, not because I thought they’d squeeze us into our reservation earlier, but because I thought they’d squeeze us into Eve, their companion bar…which is exactly what they did!

Eve is a cocktail bar that makes excellent use of its upstairs neighbor, Frog. The premise behind Eve is that they push the boundaries of craft cocktail using ingredients that would otherwise be wasted from the restaurant above, going as far as having a lab present to distill & infuse certain ingredients into their drinks.

When you’re seated in the stained glass anointed underground bar you are greeted with a welcome cocktail to cleanse the palette, this night is was an Apple Daiquiri. Bright, refreshing, & full of spring! I then proceeded to order the Tiki-Ero, a Clementine & Banana Peel infused Rum drink paired with Allspice, Coconut, & Lime. It was revitalizing & forward while still being warm & comfortable. We were then ushered upstairs for dinner service.

You ready for it?

Dinner at Frog started off in the normal tasting menu way, with snack courses! The thing to remember here going forward is that Frog is centered around tradition ingredients found within the UK, in fact the “menu” includes a map marked with the places each of their star ingredients were gathered from. Now, back to the snack.

The first of the snacks was a twist on Eggs & Bacon served in a ceramic eggshell nestled into a bed of straw with dry ice concealed underneath. When presented water was offed to the bed causing it to “fog” the table. In addition to the breakfast staples the custardy dish also contained Maitake Mushrooms otherwise known as Hen-of-the-woods. Adorable.

The second of the snacks was reminiscent of a Cucumber Sandwich. It presented as a one-two bite Tart filled with little Jellied Cucumber Drops, Edible Flowers, Dried Oyster, & Caviar. I’m not usually one to toot the horn of cucumber but this little tart was so full of life its hard no to! Springy, salty, savory, while still maintaining its effervescence!

The following dish, if I’m being honest, was my least favorite of the snacks, that’s not to say it was bad by any means though. It was Black Cod, a staple fish of British cuisine, served as a mandala’d Cracker. The spokes of its black wheels were hollow offering a very pleasant mouth feel & crunch!

The final snack was a Beef Tartare, a dish that I feel can be rather polarizing to most. I personally am great fan of the Tartares of the world. This varietal contained a Crispy Wrapping, a crown of Edible Flowers, & Kimchi harkening back to its roots as originally a North East Asian dish followed by its rise in popularity throughout Europe in the 19th Century. The mince was soft & moist & that added crunch brought me back to my favorite setting of beef tartare, served atop bread!

Onto the main courses!

The first official course is one that I’ve been talking about for weeks now. It truly warmed my heart to the core & reaffirmed the reason I love the shared culture of food so much. Food is often the story of our lives. Fresh Bread was served along side four other plates. The first of these plates contained a Stuffed Chicken Wing. Boneless, a singular bite, juicy & supple on the inside with a crisp skin pinned in place with a barb & a rooster feather. The next to plates were spread; Fresh Butter with Chicken Cracklin’ on top & Chicken Pâté. Both were meant to be spread & enjoyed with the bread. The final plate contained a card. On this card sat a story. It said the following:

“My sister, the fussy eater that she is, would only want roast chicken every family Sunday lunch. But Mondays were my favourite-leftover roast chicken in a white, floury Scottish bun with loads of salted butter. Delish!

This dish is my take on the happy memories of that Monday morning roast chicken sandwich.”
— Adam Handling, Bread, Chicken Butter

This. This folks is why I love the culinary arts, because they are exactly that, an art. They are an expression of ones life story through the food that made them the person that they are today. It is the culmination of heritage, culture, trial & error, failures & successes, life, love, loss, & time. It speaks to us not through merely our eyes or ears but through each of our five senses. It tells a story in a single bite & expresses the unseen or unheard effortlessly.

Sorry for the rant, back to our scheduled programing.

Dish number two! I know right, how do we follow up the tangent I went on with that one? The second dish was an ode to the Tomato served in the form of a Gazpacho. The three stars of this dish were Tomato, obviously, Pepper, & Basil. The gazpacho was presented patiently waiting below a Tomato Crisp served with a Red Pepper Granache draped over. I think this may have been my least favorite of the course, not because it wasn’t an amazing expression in its own right but simply because my personage tends to have an aversion to Bell Pepper.

The third course was simply titled “All About The Sturgeon” & much like the bar hidden beneath Frog, it too sought to use different parts of the fish to great success. The common sturgeon having been a popular choice specifically for its caviar is considered a “Royal Fish” meaning that they, along with Whales, are the property of the British Monarchy when in sovereign waters, much like Swans. This dish was absolutely one of my favorites of the evening.

Sat prim upon a Heart-shaped Waffle was a dollop of Sturgeon Mousse, topped with Sturgeon Caviar, & covered, in its entirety, by Maple Syrup. This dish was so complex in its flavor profile while still being entirely familiar. It blended salty, sweet, savory, all on the most perfect of levels, allowing each to take up battlements on the pallet & wax & wane over the who had control. Each bite a new battle always resulting in the consumer’s favor.

Course four was another favorite. I feel like I keep saying that, but y’all, this meal was truly exceptional! A Scallop from the Orkney Isles up off of the northern point of Scotland swimming in a Foam Emulsion & Herb Reduction featuring prominent flavors of Za’atar & tap root, specifically an assorted shaving of Rainbow Carrots. The dish had a very nice heat to it without being overbearing. It was earthy & smokey without compromising the natural citrus notes of the scallop. Absolutely wonder!

Next came a course with yet another card attached only this time it wasn’t a note or a story. Course five was a spoon full of Duck covered in freshly shaved Black Truffle & served on a plate of beach stones with a picture of a very satisfied looking black lab named Stanley. In the photo Stanley is standing overtop a bowl filled with freshly foraged black truffles. These were Stanley’s truffles & his hard work was being recognized in glorious fashion along with I hope heaps of belly rubs at home. I’m always a sucker for fresh truffles, especially when served with water fowl & a picture of a large dog. The spoonful unfortunately didn’t last too long seeing as it was a one to two biter, but that’s my only true complaint revolving around it.

Next we were back to Cod, only this time served as a filet, not as a cracker. Lemongrass reduction formed a moat the fillet itself. I wish I could recall the what made up the remainder of the dish, from the crispy wafer on top to the puree that elevated the fish out of the reduction. My notes mention something about there being Grape in the dish but I think between the wine & still fawning over Stanley being the goodest boy it’s been lost in translation a tad.

Course seven came with two options; Wagyu Beef with Hen-of-the-woods or Lamb with Sweetbread, & Morels. We went with both each ordering one or the other then swapping not only plates halfway through but also the paired wine. I’m going to go in order of my tasting starting with the Beef.

Served Medium Rare the British Wagyu came with the aforementioned Hen-of-the-woods Mushrooms in addition to some grilled onions & an Au Jus made from Beef Tongue. The steak was incredibly tender & truly melted in your mouth with the inclusion of the Tongue Aus Jus. I also really enjoyed the little stenciled leaves that were served along the side of the plate, separating out the vegetables. It was then my turn with the Lamb.

The Lamb was definitely the more eloquent of the pair at least as far as presentation goes. It included a Morel Reduction along with a few stocks of Asparagus. The slight gaminess of the Lamb lended itself wonderfully to the earthy/springy clash the mushrooms & the asparagus brought. I think between the two I preferred the beef, though Evan preferred the Lamb. I wouldn’t have been mad to receive either though. With savory courses now wrapped we moved on to dessert!

The first of the dessert courses brought Britain’s favorite springtime veggie to the forefront. Rhubarb. Appearing in the form of a Rhubarb & Wasted Wine Sorbet served alongside a Fresh Whipped Creme. The tart bouncy rhubarb was brought well into balance by the presence of the cream & it made for a very pleasant dessert/palette cleanser!

The final course of the evening, pre-dessert snack course, was a Yoghurt Cheesecake topped with little spots of Apricot & a serving of Lemon Thyme Sorbet. Another mellow dessert it was the perfect end cap for the warm spring night. Then came the snacks.

As I’ve mentioned before in other tasting menu blogs, it appears to be customary to end the evening with another snack course, just as the evening is started with one, Frog was no exception. They served what they call their Petit Fours…though there were five. (And yes I know Petit Fours refers to bitesized desserts, not the quantity of the bite sized desserts.)

First up, served as a pair, were a simple Blackberry Jelly Gumdrop & a White Chocolate Frog Truffle filled with Yuzu. The jelly bite, as I stated above, was simple, none offensive, but carried with it a subtle charm. Their dashing little frog companions was citrusy with soft floral undertones.

Next on the list were the Chocolate & Miso Tarts. I am always a huge fan of the combinations of Miso & Chocolate. The umami of the miso really lends itself to the bold sweetness of the ganache-y chocolate. It had a nice give before finishing off with the crust.

Our final in restaurant dessert was the Strawberry & Cream Possett. Unlike the earlier egg custard dish this one was served in an actual eggshell instead of a ceramic one. It was a sweet little twist on the traditional “strawberries & cream” formula that made for a very nice introduction into the summer months coming ahead.

I regret to inform you that the last of the Petit Fours was not had by us. You see it was a take home item & in our more than now inebriated state we completely forgot that we had it on our walk home & left it in the fridge at the flat.

As I was writing all about this meal again & experiencing it vicariously through my words I had the following thought that I stand by adamantly. I would fly from Nashville to London just to dine at Frog again, turn right back around & come home. I would sit through 14+ hours of travel overseas just to spend another three house in this restaurant. That is the extent to which I recommend Frog by Adam Handling to you. If you find yourself in London or in The British Isles or hell, even in France, make the trip to London to eat here. Eat here before its well deserved two Michelin stars become three & this place is booked out for the next eternity. I promise you will not regret it or look back. The story of food that Adam & crew tell at Frog is that of many lifetimes converging to create spectacular art that fills you to your core. It is few & far between that the love gushes so freely from the likes of a tasting menu but I cannot overstate how beautiful an expression of food this place is. Run, do not walk to Frog.

I wanted to end this, our last full day in The UK with the note I wrote & sent to the Frog crew on the plane ride home.

Frog,

I wanted to pass along a thought to you. I know you neither asked for it nor is it by any means a slight or mark against you & your institution. I am also utterly aware that as someone who merely dabbles recreationally in the culinary arts I have no grounds to file suggestions based on your food. Again, not that you need it by any means, yours & your teams’ cuisine & masterful practice of the art form are up there in the highest of the upper echelons. What I can offer you is insight from one story teller to another. While I communicate with the world at large primarily through words, lyrics, music, & writing, yours is the craft of communication through food; you tell stories through experimentation, retellings of tradition, & personal connection. It’s that last bit that really struck me last night while having the pleasure of dining in your establishment. You see I have been fortunate enough to participate in many a tasting menu as life changing food is a true passion of mine. Today I find myself not so much discussing the items on your menu that I enjoyed most from a palette stand point but those which invoked a feeling of connection to you & your staff. In my many years of gallivanting the food scene I have never been presented with a story to accompany a dish, or I guess in this case a course. I’m sure at this point you realize I am talking about your “leftover” chicken dish. The subtle art of story telling is one that thrills me to the core & it was an honor to experience a slice of your life through the expression of love, admiration, & nostalgia you put into that. I applaud you on your candor & your vulnerability when openly sharing a shining glimpse into the food, events, & emotions that led you to cook the food that you do. In addition to this radiant moment, I also truly enjoyed the touch of perspective you injected into your truffle course with Stanley. You have created food that is deeply personal, not just to yourself but also to those involved in its construction & that is the true measure of great art. I am grateful for the experience & hope to have the fortune of dining with you all again very soon. These moments of passion & love are the subtle strengths that elevate you to the stars my friends, of course not discounting your impeccable preparatory skills, but I would be remiss if I did not express my hope that you continue to find places to insert them into the story that is an evening at Frog.

It is with the warmest of regards & deepest appreciation that I write you,

Your newest regular,

Charlie Rogers


Day Twelve

Even though all other COVID regulations for travel had been lifted at this point & even though both Evan & I are fully vaxxed & boosted US Citizens, we still had to get a COVID test to reenter the US no more than 24 hours before our flight.

Evan had scheduled us a 9 AM appointment to have a rapid antigen test done, we hadn’t gone to bed til at least 2 AM that same morning. In addition to lack of sleep we were hungover as all get out so crawling through Covent Garden to Soho at 8:45 was a struggle & a half.

Our tests were quick, only taking about 10 minutes total in the testing location, but once again we were in a facility with rude, entitled Americans.

I truly give Americans a bad rep in this blog series don’t I, or at least I have a knack for calling them out on their BS. I don’t mean to appear “greater than” it’s just, y’all, we have to be better.

Anyway, back to this rude American couple. They were both well in their late-60s & truthfully were not only rude to the French attendants at the clinic but also to us upon entering. They hadn’t made a reservation, an ongoing theme it seems, & were demanding to be tested asap. Luckily for them there had been a no show so they had tests available. The clinicians handled it much better than I would have too, I’d have told them to kick rocks & maybe plan ahead next time, have fun rescheduling your flight!

Now tested & still wildly hungover the daily hunt for coffee began. We decided to try a coffee shop just down the street from the flat called The Espresso Room. Ordering yet another Iced Drip I also was instructed to get an Almond Croissant, a pastry I had passed up a week prior at Monmouth. WHY DID I PASS UP THE ALMOND CROISSANT?! No one told me they were filled!!! This almond croissant was massive, like almost a foot long, & it was incredible. It has also instilled a new dopamine obsession for me, that of course being the almond croissant. Don’t sleep on her, she’s busin’.

We decided that a walk would probably help the hangover & the streets of Covent Gardens were completely deserted, so we went walkabout. On our voyage around the borough we stumbled upon a little courtyard that had a catholic church tucked in the back, St Paul’s Church. The exciting thing, to us, about St. Paul’s is that they had cats. Two absolutely stunning black cats that have been residents of the church all their lives & spend their days wandering Inigo Jones Garden. Even though we were only a day away from being home with our animals we had to stop & spend a little time with the kitties.

It had now become time to pack & prepare for our departure. Heading back to the flat we gathered our belongings, forgetting the breakfast offering from Frog, hugged V&R goodbye, & hopped the Piccadilly Line back to Heathrow.

From here the journey is pretty standard; security, snacks from duty-free for the flight attendants, one last smoked salmon sandwich for the road, a matcha latte, & finally boarding. We were sat in the same exact seats as our trip into the UK only this time the plan was stay awake at all costs. Remember folks, the rule is sleep overnight going East, stay the hell awake going West. I wrote the above note, did a bit of object writing, we caught up on Moon Knight & then proceeded to bing Heartstopper.

We arrived at JFK around 9PM EST ready to PTFO, unfortunately we still had to go through immigrations, customs, grab bags, hop into an Uber, & drive across Queens to our hotel just outside of LaGuardia, all of which turned out to be fairly painless.

We arrived at Aloft around 10:30 & were passed out, having had dinner from a vending machine, around 11.


Day Thirteen

We really only got around 5-6 hours of sleep, our flight out of New York was early, departing around 7 AM. We had to be in line for the shuttle by 4:30 AM & it was packed!

LaGuardia security was more of a pain than Heathrow & customs combined, so I’m glad we got there early.

There’s truly not that much more interesting to tell from here on out. We landed in Nashville at 8:30 CST, had to pay far too much for an Uber home, then stayed up all day to try & beat the jetlag…it didn’t work…



Afterward

If you’ve made it this far I’m grateful for you taking the time out of your day or night or whenever you’re reading this to do so!

Traveling, exchanging stories, customs, cuisine, art, music, & culture are the things that fill me with life. It is truly my honor to go one these adventures & share these experiences with you. I hope you gain something out of reading them & find them informative & or inspiring in one way or another.

I’d like to thank Victoria & Rhys for being so accommodating to us, The Donowhos for your years & years of love & support & willingness to help me & mine, the people of Dumfries for opening up your town & hearts so hospitably to me, & anyone I may have missed along the way. Shoutout to Ross for putting your sound & videography skills to use on my behalf, I can’t wait to show off the footage! Thank you to Evan for being the patient, easygoing travel companion you are! You all made this trip a joy & made my 30th one for the books.

From the bottom of my heart, thank you for taking the time to give this a read!

Much love to you all,

-C

End Of Part Three



End Of Blog Series For The United Kingdom


Travel Blog: The United Kingdom-Part One: Take Me Back To London

I’m fairly certain this blog is going to take the shape of three parts. Maui was three & it was seven days, Puerto Rico was two & it was three days, so we’ll see if we can fit it all into three weeks worth of blogs! This may end up changing forms mid-series but that remains to be seen. So, I suppose, without any further ado, let’s get into it shall we?


Prologue:

I’d always known I wanted to go abroad for my thirtieth, let’s face it though, I want to go abroad at any given time. The original plan for that was Australia/New Zealand but ye olde corona virus saw fit to change that plan along with so, so many others. I love the United Kingdom, I’ve had a mild obsession with it since late high school & always enjoy my time there. Seeing how the UK has reopened & Australia has the door slightly ajar in terms of current tourism, The UK became the logical destination of choice.

As I’m sure many of you know, any great trip requires preparation & planning, long twelve day trips six time zones away on the other side of an ocean, extensively so. I knew I wanted to do London for my actual birthday but I also wanted to rekindle some relationships & do a little work while in country. For those of you that didn't know I was in the process of planning a UK based radio tour when covid hit back in 2020 around the song “When He Was Me,” a song that is still yet to be released. The plan was similar this go round except it was meant to center on “Just Another Late Night,” a song that still has yet to come out….but will soon, I promise. Naturally I didn’t want to do a massive radio tour around a single that no one could stream yet so it really just became a series of small acoustic sets.

I reached out to any & all UK based or affiliated music friends of mine to try & pack my musical schedule but I fear I waited a tad too long to do so & thus only a few things ended up happening. I’m grateful for each of you reading this who offered me support, help, reached out on my behalf, etc. I am so incredibly grateful for each of you!

As the above paragraph would indicate we waited just a touch too long to make those moves as well as buying tickets. Plane tickets that were $650 round trip on the Saturday three weeks before were either sold out or almost double three days later but we managed & the dates of the 13th-the 25th were set.

Evan is much more the type A planner than I am & he immediately set out to make accommodations. He found an incredible house/petsitter for us, got connected with our friends Victoria & Rhys in London who graciously offered us a place to stay, & started mapping out days. I dove headfirst into food planning, as I do, & came across several Michelin Star restaurants that I then attempted to snag reservations at.

The week before our departure was pure mayhem. My 185 gallon reef tank decided to develop a plague, of which I’m still battling, the house required scrubbing, pet food required prepping, laundry needed doing, travel documents, covid regulations, all needed navigating, in addition to our normal duties of work & content creation. We also did a photo shoot in the middle of this for album artwork! We did it though, we got everything together & orderly though it truly came down to the last couple hours!

Part One:

Take Me Back To London

Day One

We made it to bed far later than we’d hoped or expected & thus only slept around four or five hours. Our pre-scheduled Lyft met us at the door at 5:30 AM CST & we departed to the Nashville airport for our 7:20 flight to Washington D.C.. The original plan upon arriving in DC around noon was to meet Evan’s brother who lives in Bethesda for lunch during our six+ hour layover but unfortunately something came up. We also made it to the ticket counter at Dulles for Virgin Atlantic far before the staff had even thought about coming into work. We waited around two hours, grabbing food & a drink or two in the interim. We finally got checked in around 2:30 or 3, had an easy trip through security, if you don’t count Evan getting searched for packing a candle in his carry-on, & made our way to our gate.

I took the opportunity of time to film an Object Writing video for Terminal, which I had already done voice over for. I edited it & had it up within an hour or so. If you’d like to give it a view you can find it here! After posting my Wednesday writing prompt I got up & went in search of snacks. I learned this nifty little thing from my friend Stephen Lovegrove. Any time he flies he gifts the flight attendants snacks; candy, chips, anything else he thinks they might like. His reasoning is that flight attendants, especially on international or cross country flights, are there waiting on you hand & foot for upwards of four to eight hours straight. They deserve a treat & definitely better pay & benefits, but then again, so do most people. We boarded our flight, economy deluxe, & passed our bag of goodies to the steward in charge of our section, he was elated. I also may have dropped my guitar on a teenager’s face as I was trying to get it into the overhead bin, it slid out on me. I felt horrible. After battering a youth we claimed our seats for the next seven plus hours & headed off to Heathrow around 7:30 PM EST.

I have this rule anytime I fly through multiple time zones. If you’re headed east, fly red eye, that way you can sleep on the flight & wake up when it’s appropriate to be awake in your new time zone. This works best if you can get a seat that lays somewhat flat. On the other hand, if you’re going west then I recommend flying in the morning or early afternoon & staying up for the duration of your flight, that way you land & are tired at a time when it’s appropriate to go to sleep in that new timezone. I haven’t figured out north to south yet, but I’ll let you all know the minute I do!


Day Two

We landed in London around 6:30 AM GMT having logged around three hours of sleep at most. We departed the plane, I snagged by guitar being sure not to assault anyone this time, & we made our way through immigration. If you’ve never been to the UK CCTV is a very popular thing there, it’s basically government surveillance that’s kept in majority of public spaces. It sounds very big brother I know, but when you enter the country they scan your passport & your face & allow you on your merry way. Evan of course got stopped again.

We grabbed our bags & popped onto the Piccadilly Line, making our way from Heathrow to Covent Gardens in what was now the morning rush into London. At the Covent Gardens tube stop we were greeted by Victoria & Rhys who graciously showed us to their flat. When we got upstairs they asked if we needed a nap, the plan of which was an hour & a half. It ended up being around two to three.

Still dreary from travel & frankly starving we decided we were going to walk from Covent Gardens to Borough Market in Southwark. I’d been to London before, Evan has not, nor had he been truly out of the North Americas. So with that in mind we did a little sight seeing along the way. We passed by St. Paul’s Cathedral, all ready for Easter, we crossed Millennium Bridge, then made our way past The Globe to the Market.

At the market I had my sights set on a Scotch Egg from Scotchtails but much to my dismay it had been closed down due to the hardship of covid. For those of you who don’t know what a scotch egg is, it’s a soft boiled egg wrapped in sausage & breadcrumbs. It’s fire. Disappointed I followed Ev’s desire for Fish & Chips & we got in line at Fish! We asked the attendant what to get & he suggested the lemon bream so that’s what we got along with curry sauce, chips, & gravy. On the way to finding a spot to sit down we found doughnuts at Bread Ahead, a pistachio & a blackcurrant cheesecake one & grabbed a cranberry lemonade from a local fruit vendor.

The lemon bream was delightful! It worked really well with the curry sauce & was a very light, flaky fish with, as the name would suggest, a light lemony-ness to it! I wanted to like the brown gravy more than I did but I was more than happy leaning heavily on the curry sauce for the chips as well. Both doughnuts were outstanding though, much to my surprise, I favored the cheesecake one, Evan leaned pistachio.

After lunch the walking tour of London continued. We continued down the bank past London City Hall til we got to Tower Bridge. After crossing Tower Bridge & walking around the Tower of London where we hopped the Circle Line to Westminster. Arriving at Westminster we saw Big Ben, Parliament, & The London Eye before walking back to Covent Gardens to meet up with Victoria & Rhys once more.

We let Victoria pick dinner, since we had already chosen the following day’s. She immediately responded with the question “do you like Batman?” to which I excitedly replied “YES!?” After chilling at their flat for a while, probably passing back out in the interim, we got dressed & were led to dinner.

Through Leicester Square we meandered until we were prompted to enter a rather plain looking office building. We entered into a room that looked like an old library adorned with books like “Alice In Wonderland,” “The Drunken Botanist,” etc., busts & portraits of the Wayne family, & a giant stuffed horned owl. We were shown through the bookshelf to a flight of stairs which descended two stories all the while playing Hans Zimmer’s score from Christopher Nolan’s Batman trilogy. At the bottom of the stairs we were shown through two double doors into a massive 20s style room, complete with jazz band. We had entered Park Row.

If you hadn’t guessed from the above two paragraphs, Park Row is a Batman themed restaurant. The venue is themed after the Iceberg Lounge from Batman Returns & is chockablock with easter eggs & little nods to the films & comic universe at large. We started our evening with a round of drinks, of course all of them being in theme. I got the Bludhaven (Sesame Scotch Old Fashioned), Evan got Matches (Roasted Pineapple Rum Collins), & Victoria ordered The Blue Boy (Blue Caraçao Gimlet) a drink poured from the frame of a print of “The Blue Boy” by Thomas Gainsborough. For our appetizer Evan & I split the “Fit For A Knight” the menu’s Beef Tartare dish & Victoria & Rhys split an order of Fried Oysters. For our main course I got Gotham City’s Savior, an excellently prepared ribeye, Evan got the Mama Maroni, some pretty solid tortellini, & V & R split The Elite, a massive dry aged Tomahawk steak. We skipped dessert, unlike me, I know, but the Row offers a lot of very cool novelty desserts most of which use liquid nitrogen!

After using the Joker themed loo (Harley Quinn for the ladies) we ascended the stairs & walked back through the madness of Leicester Square to Covent Gardens.


Day Three

Day three started with a bit of a rush. Victoria had made lunch plans for us in the City of London & we all wanted to squeeze a workout in. Rhys went with his trainer & Ev & I tried to squeeze into Victoria’s Barrys Soho class but unfortunately it was full. We found a few spots in Barrys Central London & set out to make the class.

I’m someone who, for the most part, can’t workout in the morning & if I do I have to have been awake for over an hour & I have to have eaten something & had caffeine. I think it has something to do with my blood sugar being slow to ramp up in the mornings but if I don’t follow this rule it makes me sick for the remainder of the day. With that in mind we headed north to one of my favorite London coffee shops, Monmouth Coffee Company. Since it was a bright, sunny, warm London day (I know right?!) I grabbed an iced filter coffee & a pain au chocolate. When I asked the cashier which pastry to get her first suggestion was the almond croissant but then she said it, the phrase that permeated the rest of the trip. “The pains quite nice.” So the pain is what I got.

Onward through Russell Square we went til we made it to Barrys Central. We were around twenty minutes early & my mate Ali had just sent me a text asking for an updated bio for the show in Dumfries. Part of my accelerator had been mentored by an artist who now writes bios professionally so I sat outside Barrys crafting the following biography:

Charlie Rogers is a Kansas-born, genre alchemizing country singer-songwriter based out of Nashville, TN. His genuine, often widely varied sound aims to bridge interpersonal gaps allowing each of us to feel seen & understood.

Rogers has opened for the likes of Brothers Osborne, Russell Dickerson, & Janelle Arthur. He has played CMA honors ceremonies from Charley Pride to Ricky Skaggs. His artist work & writing has been shared the world over & encompasses stages from all over the US to Spain & the UK as well.

Rogers has been a proponent for music his whole life & began singing & writing even at a very young age. His inspiration for his musical pursuits is & has always been to communicate the commonalities between us, especially for those groups who often feel unseen or unheard, often reaching across rigid genre lines to do so.

Rogers’ most recent release, “Obliterated (Acoustic Mix),” received over 100k stream independently & has been features on radio stations & popular playlists throughout the world. Rogers’ plans to release his next single, “Just Another Late Night,” in the next coming months which is to be shortly followed by “When He Was Me” a ballad written by Shay Mooney of Dan + Shay.
— Charlie Rogers on April 15th, 2022 outside of Barrys Central London, crafted in around ten minutes

It’s a pretty solid bio, no?!

Seeing as it was Easter weekend Lucy, our instructor, had decided to make class a dirty thirty. For those of you that don’t know what a dirty thirty is it’s thirty minutes on a treadmill, thirty minutes on weights. The normal Barrys formula is usually broken up into several ten minute chunks alternating between tread & floor.

After being thoroughly destroyed in a basement studio just north of Russell Square I grabbed a brotein shake & a Barrys London tank & began the speed walk back to Covent Gardens. Our initial plan was to get back to the flat with around thirty minutes before we needed to depart for lunch buuuuut class had gone over & we were running rather behind. We ended up getting there, showered, changed, & manicured within the span of around fifteen minutes.

We took the Circle Line to the City of London, a pristine, shining metropolis of a city. We were once again ushered into what appeared to be a normal office building but after ascending thirty-nine floors in the matter of just short of as many seconds we found ourselves in SushiSamba! While technically a chain, SushiSamba limits its locations to the most scenic & picturesque. This location of the restaurant has a panoramic view of London & features two outdoor patios, one with an outdoor bar, along with the massive bay windows that encompass the entirety of the restaurant.

Lunch began with a round of drinks as we waited for our table; for Rhys, a lager, Victoria, a Tangerine Spritz, Evan, a Café Millionaire (a twist on an Espresso Martini), & Me, a Kiffirinha (a twist on the Brazilian Caipirinha). Though each of these drinks were incredible in their own right it was the second round that brought the fire. Everyone ordered the same as before except me who ordered a clarified Piña Colada Old Fashioned. When I say this drink was the hit of the table I mean it. The fomo from the rest of the group was real!

For lunch we split a few different things; edamame, wagyu gyoza, toro tiradito (toro, yuzu soy, wasabi pickle, black truffle, & yuzu caviar), the Samba London roll (tuna, salmon, hamachi, avocado, asparagus, onion, hishiho mayo, crispy yuba, & yuzu dressing), & the tiger maki (crab, tiger prawn tempura, beetroot yogurt, & red onion). The Samba roll was my favorite, the Tiger Maki, Evan’s.

After lunch we basically had a free day & decided to make our way up to Shoreditch. We made a quick detour through Spitalfields Market to grab a juice & peruse before heading to what has been rated the second best bar in the entire world, Tāyer + Elementary.

If you hadn’t caught on yet this Friday was definitely a day filled with drinking…sorry Mom. V&R had taken off of work to join our escapades & we were taking full advantage of it.

Tāyer + Elementary is a quant little Shoreditch craft cocktail spot. The esthetic is very modern Industrial meets Scandinavian in design & it’s laidback simplicity creates a very soothing environment. The bar is a bit of a two in one. Elementary operating weekdays & afternoons, Tāyer taking over for the late weekends. The Bergamot Margarita & the Frozen Yuzu Margarita were popular amongst the rest of the crew, on the other hand I got one of the best Nigronis I’ve ever had in addition to an off menu drink that I still have no clue what it was. I remember it being piney though! Does it live up to the title of second best bar in the world? Yes. Yes it does. The drinks are creative & endearing, the menu is constantly changing & allowing more & more room for experimentation.

Now rather decently buzzed we made our way back to the flat. As the years go by day drinking seems to get harder & harder, rest was needed.

As aforementioned dinner had been decided by Ev & I at Kricket. Kricket is one of my favorite London stops. It’s traditional British Fare mixed with Indian in a fun chic locale. We arrived a tad early for our reservation so we were escorted down to their new speakeasy SOMA Soho. Much like their upstairs neighbors SOMA Soho takes the traditional flavors of India & integrates them into craft cocktails. I got the Almond, a whiskey soda highball meant to taste like marzipan, Evan got the Coconut, a coconut/grapefruit fizz, & Rhys got the Chai, a chai sour. Victoria ended up with wine terminating her voyage on the day of liquors.

For dinner we order way too much food. Kricket is meant to be shared so you order plates for the table & pass them about. Let me see if I can get all of what we ordered here. We got Pistachio & Date Kulcha, Bhel Puri, Samphire Pakoras, Grilled Butternut Squash, Cornish Sole, Keralan Fried Chicken, Beef Boti Kebabs, Kashmiri Lamb Ribs, Burnt Garlic Tarka Dal, & Malai Tandoori Paneer. The fried chicken & butternut squash were my personal favorites! In addition to our smorgasbord we got a bottle of wine to split, while Rhys partook in the Dark Matter, a green chili rum margarita.

Quite stuffed & intoxicated we stumbled through the bustling Soho Friday night back to the flat where we slept like rocks. If you’d like to know the level to which we were intoxicated, I am entirely lacking photos from Tāyer + Elementary on…


Day Four

HAPPY THIRTIETH BIRTHDAY TO ME!!!!!!!

If you couldn’t have guessed by the previous day’s events we woke up rather hungover. Not a great way to start a birthday I guess but I wouldn’t change a thing! After showering, dressing, contemplating the meaning of existence, it was once again time to set out.

In my Michelin search & my “Top Restaurants In The World” search one place came up consistently, The Clove Club. Having been awarded their second Michelin star back in February & being the foodie that I am I absolutely had to go celebrate my birthday there! However when I went to book the only available reservations for the 16th were at noon. Fine by me! Boujee Birthday Lunch it is!!!

We take the tube to Hackney, greeted by another glorious day in London. The only problem with the glorious nature of the day was that Evan & I had planned for UK spring, you know, dark & rainy, soooo we were a tad warm to say the least. We arrived at The Clove Club & were the first ones there, probably because we booked the opening slot but I felt a bit like an elderly couple going to get the early bird special.

We were very poshly greeted by a lovely hostess who asked if we needed anything before our seating was ready. Yes. Coffee. Lot’s of coffee. She then proceeded to bring us two excellently crafted pourover coffees.

When at little last we were sat I was greeted at the table by a birthday card from the staff in addition to a very well travelled Somm/Scuba Diver from New Zealand. He explained our tasting menu options, long or short, as well as the drink pairing options, wine, tea, or a mix of both, & off we went!

The thing with tasting menus that they don’t often advertise is the series of snacks you are presented before your “actual meal” can begin. In this case our snacks course consisted of a few things. The first thing we were brought was a Spring Herb Broth. Bright, green, herbaceous, & warm it was a very welcomed welcome gift to the two of us. Next was a crab snack, presented in the hollowed out shell it was a thin wafer like tart piped with a custard made from the crab. It was salty, creamy, & savory with that subtle crab sweetness. The third snack came on a bed of pine branches. It was a Buttermilk Fried Chicken Bite with Pine Salt. Tender, juicy, scrumptious with just the slightest alpine notes from the salt. The last snack item was a molten lava Escargot Bon Bon. I say it was molten lava because the interior cream was boiling. Encased in a delicate fried shell the escargot bon bon was an adventure for the pallet for sure! I thoroughly enjoyed it!

Our first course was delectable; a nice cut of Hot Smoked Wiltshire Trout atop an almond milk & watercress cream, served with Petrossian Caviar, brown butter almonds, & a crispy bit of the trout skin. Almost like a lighter more buttery salmon the trout was perfectly smoked & the combinations the textures brought to the dish were next level!

The second dish was the star of the show, Raw Orkney Scallops with Roasted Hazelnuts, Clementine Gel, Mushrooms, & a Black Truffle Butter on top! This is the dish that they claim won them their second Michelin star! The scallops literally melted in your mouth & the bright citrus paired perfectly with mellow earth notes of the truffle & mushrooms. Truly a stand out worthy of the star it received!

Course Three, Scottish Langoustine. If you don’t know a langoustine is about halfway between a prawn & a lobster, though technically a part of the lobster family. This dish came with a squashed slice of Green Tomato & was covered with a White Beer Emulsion. On the side it also included some sort of Aioli. This dish was sweet yet acidic, the malt nature of the beer played nicely with the brighter notes of both the crustacean & the tomato.

Another fish course number four was that of a fillet of Cornish Monkfish. Delicately prepared the flakey white monkfish was then topped with a hot pot of its skin, Swiss Chard, & Sichuan Pepper really giving it a savory bitterness that ended up feeling much hardier than I’d anticipated from such a light fish.

Course five, the last of the savories. This course was a Dry Aged Middlewhite Pork. It sat upon a bed of Bagna Cauda, a traditional Italian “fondue”, & was paired with a crispy thousand layer potato & artichoke. I didn’t expect savory/sweet Italian from The Clove Club but I guess that’s my error in assumption!

Now onto my favorite courses.

I mean the above statement not because I think the dishes in question were the show stoppers of the afternoon but because my unrelenting sweet tooth demands it.

Dessert course one was a Grilled Habañero Granita, or as my bud Beau called it, flavored ice. It sat atop a Wild Plum Sorbet as well as something creamy that I’m not quite sure of. The dish was fire & ice. Spicy, yet very cool & refreshing at the same time. The plum had a slight saltiness that honestly made me want to take the ingredients & make them into a margarita.

Apparently The Clove Club is famous for their Gateau St. Honoré, a pastry so named after St. Honoré (no shit), the patron saint of pastries. Theirs has some nice bits of Rhubarb in the center that added a very nice tartness to the overall sweet, custardy pastry! I think it was my favorite dessert of the evening!

Next came more Rhubarb, a very popular British ingredient I quickly learned along with blackcurrent. Along with the Gateau came a Yorkshire Rhubarb Sorbet with Ginger Ale Gel & some form of crumble underneath. It was an excellent pallet cleanser to “end the night.” Only it wasn’t…

You see tasting menus also often like to include a dessert snack course at the end where you get little things like truffles & macarons. This menu was no different. Our tasting snacks were an Array of Chocolates; Milk Chocolate Macarons, Hard Shelled White Chocolate Truffles, & Dark Chocolate Ganache, meant to be consumed in that order. It’s hard to mess up chocolate y’all & each of these were exceptional!

Thinking we were done I went to get up but was met with a slice of Gold Foil Opera Cake & a candle with “Happy 30th Birthday” inscribed on the plate in chocolate. It was absolutely darling.

Overall I would say The Clove Club has more than earned its two Michelin stars. I wish I could remember the wine pairings to add in here but I unfortunately forgot to write them down. I will say this to the Somm team over at the club, this was truly the best pairing I’ve had with a tasting menu! Each wine was unique & interesting & enhanced the flavors of the food with expert precision & visa versa. This made for an excellent birthday lunch & I’m beyond blessed to have had the experience!

After lunch I reached out to my friend Kim Logan (+ The Silhouettes) to see if we could snag a quick hang. Kim traditionally lives in Glasgow & frequents Paris with her band but was in London for her boyfriend’s band’s show the night prior at Helgi’s in Hackney. We hopped the bus & headed the couple of stops to meet her.

She met us outside Helgi’s with a massive hug & ushered us in. The crew were packing up their gear from the previous night so while they did that we sat in the bar & chatted. It was mostly music bus & mutual friends but it was nice to connect in person!

After they left to return to Glasgow we walked through Hackney towards Bethnal Green to grab the tube back Soho way. We grabbed coffee at Mare Street Market along the way & made a mental note to come back because she was cuuuute!

Back in CG we slept off the day & the night before’s alcohol & calories before meeting V&R for dinner at Temper Soho.

Ev & I were still pretty full from lunch but we ordered a few things to get us through the night; Cheeseburger Tacos & Wood-Roasted Sea Bass.

After dinner we went to a wine bar back in Covent Gardens called Plume! I was feeling bubbly for my birthday & got Champagne, something somewhat uncharacteristic of me (I tend to drink red.) Post night cap we walked the streets of the Theater District before ending our last evening in London fulfilled & full of love, booze, & incredible food.

END OF PART ONE