Traveling

Travel Blog: Bohol, Philippines- Part One: I Flew To The Other Side Of The World To Go Diving & All You're Getting Is One Singular Mention Of The Ocean In This First Blog

BOHOL, PHILIPPINES

Prologue

Hello Fellow Travelers,

Welcome back to one of my absolute favorite blog series that I do here at my beloved site; travel blogs! I know, for a large handful of you all, this is also your favorite series of mine & I think for good reason. This is often the blog that I get to share major passion of mine, travel, as well as a few subsequent others such as food, beverage, dive, & storytelling. Fortunately for all of us, this series will contain all of these aspects & more! So, if you’re along for the ride, buckle in, as the full scope of this trip & its embedded tales will take up a good three weeks worth of space on this blog! With all of that being said & everything else out of the way, let’s dive on in shall we?!


PART ONE:

Day One

Los Angeles, California


Evan & I landed in Los Angeles around 10 AM on March 7th. Our direct flight options for our arrival with Southwest Airlines were either the flight we chose or one that got in around 9:15 PM, which would have cut us far too close to our 10:35 PM departure with EVA Air for Taipei. This naturally left us with around 9 hours worth of time to burn before we had to check-in for the aforementioned flight. Initially our plan was to have our friend Jenna pick us up from LAX & drop us back later but upon looking into the amount of time it would force her into in commutes on our behalf we opted to rent a car for the day instead. Popping on over to Avis we snagged the rental I had booked the evening prior, a Tesla Model 3, of which Avis has an exclusive deal for the rental of. The really nice part about it was that we weren’t responsible for charging it upon its return which really helps save you a bit of cash, especially with LA gas prices being around $5 a gallon.

Downtown Los Angeles

Jenna had planned to head over to Pasadena to catch our other friend Rory’s Barry’s Ass & Abs class. She’d suggested dropping our luggage with her in North Hollywood, then carpooling around together, but unfortunately the time it would have taken for such a measure would have forced us to miss Rory’s class. So we opted just to meet there instead. We made it to Pas with about ten minutes to spare & loaded our luggage into the locked trunk & loathsomely named “frunk” (front trunk) of the Tesla.

I think Evan has cursed us, either that or it’s all to do with the timing of when we travel seeing as he is off Wednesdays & Thursdays so we usually end up flying those days. Either way we seem to always do a “leg day” the day prior to large amounts of travel, I guess this time would be no different.

Barry’s has a lower focus class on Tuesdays & an ass & abs class on Thursdays, that usually ends up being the cause of his post-leg day flight woes. Even if we don’t end up at Barry’s we typically end up adhering to their schedule so that we don’t get thrown into a wonky “I’m too sore for this” situation should we decide to hit another of their classes during the week.

Burlington Arcade In Pasadena

After class we were all desperately craving a coffee. Evan & I had wanted to venture into The Burlington Arcade in Pasadena for a while & the Pas Barry’s location just happened to be right within the same block or two, so that’s where our search began & ultimately ended.

The Mandarin Coffee Stand is nestled right in the middle of The Arcade. It is a teeny, tiny coffee shop that has a customer occupancy limit of four guests at a time. The are a local, Asian women owned & operated shop that specializes in Chinese style coffee. I got a latte known as the “Toasty” which consists of Rooibos, Cinnamon, Espresso, Brown Sugar, & Oat Milk. Not typically a fan of the milk of the oat, I tried it anyway at the recommendation of the barista & it was nothing short of bangin’! As we stood around the strip sipping our respective coffees we all decided the next necessary & logical step would be to find food.

If you were to dig into the notes app on either Evan or my phone you’d discover a shared note simply titled “Travel Visits.” In said note you will find lists upon lists of mostly restaurants & bars that we’ve written down over the years to try should we ever find ourselves in any of the locations listed therein. Despite our many years in LA the list for it seems to continue to grow & grow & so we both began to pilfer through in search of what would inevitably be that day’s lunch.

Many of the locations that we found were either evening only, too far from Pasadena, North Hollywood, or LAX, weren’t open that day, or weren’t a type of food we were all feeling, but at the end of our extensive filtering we ended up deciding on a deli in Westlake called Langer’s.

Langer’s Delicatessen-Restaurant was founded in 1947 & has been in the Langer family ever since. They are a member of the LA Times 101 Hall of Fame & have been a staple on the Michelin guide for many years. They are famous for their #19 Pastrami Sandwich which has been voted amongst the world’s best which is exactly what Evan & both ordered. The sandwich was excellent, sporting Pastrami on Rye with Coleslaw, Swiss Cheese & Russian Dressing. Jenna ordered a simple sliced Salami on a Hoagie it Provolone which was simple & delightful in its own way. After lunch we ended LA’s early afternoon traffic & made our way towards Jenna’s place in North Hollywood. Once we’d gotten to North Hollywood we pulled off into the CVS to grab a few provisions.

Laurel Canyon, Los Angeles

Photo Credit: Evan Michael

Anytime I fly overseas or on a flight that is longer than 4-5 hours I bring the cabin crew a sack of goodies just to say “thank you” & help ease their time on the job in even the slightest of ways. I typically pick up some family sized packs of chocolates, candies, & snacky things to give out. In addition to our care package we also picked up some Zzzquil for the flight, since it was an over nighter. After acquiring our items we continued onto Jenna’s to recharge for a bit; both for ourselves & our devices which had already made it through a morning of travel & a day of light exploration.

With our time in LA coming to an end & our need to head off to the airport approaching, we popped into a quick shower, refreshed deodorants & the like, & swapped over into our travel clothes before packing everything back up, bidding Jenna a fond farewell, & beginning the hour+ commute to the airport.

Once we’d dropped the car back at Avis we headed into LAX to check-in for our EVA Air flight to Taipei with continued service to Manilla. Once we got to Manilla we’d have to go through immigration & customs before rechecking our bags & continuing on. We met the rest of our group from Midwest Aquatics that were headed to Bohol at the check-in gate & after greetings & hugs we all headed through security.

The process was lighter than usual so we found ourselves incredibly early for our flight, so much so that the British Airways flight occupying our gate hadn’t even received their plane. We wandered around the international terminal before settling in on something to eat. After some truly mid fish tacos, I found a secluded corner in which to write two weeks ago’s blog & awaited the boarding process.

We boarded right on time & once we’d taken off, & eaten our in-flight meal, we took the Zzzquils & attempted to get some sleep.

Downtown Los Angeles

End Of Day One



Day Two

Taipei, Taiwan


We arrived in Taipei around 5:15 AM, local time. I managed to sleep for about a half or so of the duration of the fourteen & a half hour flight, Evan managed about two thirds. That was when he wasn’t attempting to shut off our sleeping neighbor’s over head light.

We had booked ahead online & gotten ourselves the exit row. I’m a rather tall gent at 6’4” & definitely need the extra leg room that the exit row or premium economy provide, especially on airlines based out of parts of the world where people tend to be on the shorter side. I had the “window” (there was no window) & Evan had the middle. At the time of our booking the aisle seat was already occupied, we actually assumed that it was Deb, a member of our group. It wasn’t, it was a gentlemen we had no relation to. When you’re in the exit row all of the buttons for your seat are located on the arm rest to your left about thigh high. Strangely enough, in EVA Air Economy Class, the reading light for the aisle seat illuminates the middle seat. No joke. Like each of the other buttons illuminate each of their respective seats, except for the aisle which basically doubles up on the middle. Additionally, the man on the end’s button for his over head light seemed to be a little on the sensitive side & every time he shifted in his seat it lit up the light over Evan’s head. I legitimately thought it was his own light until I noticed him slyly reaching over, across the man’s lap, trying to tap his light button. In his words “I had no issue with the light itself, it was the heat that it generated that was keeping me awake.” When he finally got around to turning off the light the man shifted in his seat thirty seconds later, immediately reigniting Evan’s personal warming bulb. Later when he got up to use the restroom, Evan positioned the man’s blanked so as to block any accidental bumping of the button from occurring.

Wheel Pies

We had about a three-ish hour layover in Taipei & we’d arrived before any of the shops & restaurants had opened. So, we as a group, decided to stretch out collective legs & walk the length of the terminal. By the time we’d made it all the way down shops had begun to open. Several members of our group took special interest in the Sanrio shop but I had my eyes set on a bakery that was beginning their prep as we initially walked by. The bakery in question is called Mazu Village, it’s half wheel pies & half boba stand. The boba & wheels pies are presented in a combo format so Evan & I opted for the one that would let us each have one of each of the two flavors; Salted Custard & Salted Custard with Peanut Butter, & also gave us each a Taro Boba Tea. The rest of the group ended up with something similar & while the two of us had decided that we favored just the custard pie over the one with peanut butter, as we found it too rich, the others disagreed.

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup

After our saccharine breakfast we sat around making calls for a bit. Evan called his family & I called my sister, whose birthday it still was in the states. At this point we’d crossed the international date line & were a half a day ahead of everyone back home. We waited around a bit longer before I went to a booth to buy some Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup which Evan & I split. I actually think one of the best parts of the soup was the Sauced Cabbage that came with it & the hyper sweet Cold Assam Tea. We wandered around the airport for a bit after we finished our food, flitting in & out of the assorted duty free shops before we descended to our gate to wait to board.

In the Taoyuan International Airport all of the gates are situated a level below the main parts of the concourse so you have to ascend a flight of stairs/take an elevator up when you arrive & descend the stairs/elevator when you plan to depart. It’s nice because it keeps the waiting areas separate from the hustle & bustle of the main terminal. The EVA Air Gods saw fit to grace us with the Sanrio plane for our trip from Taipei to Manila. I was actually surprised to see how many of us in the group were excited about that, but the plane was cute! Even once we’d boarded the plane was full of little Sanrio easter eggs such as the Hello Kitty air freshener holder in the lavatories.

Sanrio EVA Airplane

We departed Taipei at around 9:10 AM local time & began our two hours & thirty minute flight across the Luzon Strait to the Philippines & Manila.



Manila


Our flight landed in Manila at 11:45 & we were immediately ushered off the plane to immigration. Evan somehow made it through the passport check without filling out the online application for a visa, the rest of us weren’t so lucky. We were all handed a QR code to scan & fill out a digital form before we could get our stamp. Pretty standard procedure, just thought it was odd Evan got through without it, he must just have one of those faces.

He did fill out his visa application retroactively as we sat waiting for our baggage to come through. Figured it was better to have it done & entered in, especially if it ended up being needed upon our departure. Once we all had our luggage collected we headed out to the transfer area where we booked the transfer shuttle to the local departures terminal & exchange USD for Filipino Peso.

The man running the shuttle kiosk at the international terminal told us that it would be about a forty-five minute wait before we would have a transfer & it wasn’t guaranteed that we would all fit, in which case they would have us wait an additional 30-45 minutes for the next shuttle. I’m not really sure how or why the transfer times on the shuttles are so long, especially since the walk time between the two terminals was only about 5-10 minutes. We all opted for that.

The walk was a bit of a system shock. Most of us changed into lighter clothing before hand, but coming from LA & then Taipei where the weather was sitting in the mid to upper 50s, the shift into the 80s felt like much more drastic a change. By the end of our walk to the other terminal we were all sweating. Each of us reapplied deodorant & proceeded to the Philippine Airlines ticketing counter where we were met with one of the more common annoyances when it comes to checking baggage internationally across different carriers; entirely different baggage rules. We made it work & got everything figured out without the need for any extra dollars being exchanged.

By the time we made it through security we only had about an hour to an hour & a half left over in what was our four hour layover. We camped the bags & we went out exploring in waves to see what the airport terminal had to offer. Two party members came back with some rather tantalizing looking Boba Tea & Evan & me, & two others set out to find & claim our own.

Once the teas were acquired we returned to our gate & waited to board. Around 3 PM we all started lining up to board & before long we were off on our way to the island of Bohol.



Bohol

Bohol-Panglao International Airport is a bit on the smaller size, boasting around five or six gates in total. We arrived after our brief hour & a half flight just before 5 PM where we descended the escalator to the single baggage carousel, collected our belongings, & were greeted by the Magic Oceans transfer crew with water bottled & some bomb ass banana chips. We all climbed into the two vans they’d provided, with out luggage occupying a third vehicle, & off we went towards Anda.

Bohol, Philippines

The drive to the dive resort was a long one, not going to lie. We’re talking like two & a half to three hours long. After being in planes for a total of 22 hours off & on & laying over, I think all of us were ready to be done & there. The benefit of these far out locations & trips is that once you’re there, you’re there for a while! They also certainly drive different in the Philippines than we do here in the states. For starters there’s no speed limits, at least not in Bohol, unless designated by a work or school zone. They also don’t necessarily abide by the lanes. Evan & I got sat on the front bench of the van & I think we both regretted it as there were many times that each of us was slamming down our foot on the imaginary brake that we each wish we had. At the end of the day though the driver DID deliver us safely to Magic Oceans, even though I though we were going to hit dogs or those going out on the then Saturday evening who were walking along the side of the road.

I did manage to sleep the last hour & some change in the car, mostly because I had to pee & it seemed the only solution to avoiding that issue. We arrived in the darkness to Magic Ocean where we were all guided to the dining area for dinner, which was in full swing. Dinner at Magic Oceans is served family style with an exquisite chef preparing an appetizer course, a main course with around five dishes, & a dessert. I made it about halfway through the trip before I realized that I’d forgotten to write down the nightly menus so unfortunately they will be absent from this series despite their amazing quality in nature & the chef who prepared them’s lovely singing voice (we’ll get to that in later installments).

Once we were all situated with food, Evelyn, the resort manager gave us a quick briefing regarding our rooms & the plan for the morning in which we planned to start our diving. Once she had finished we were each escorted privately to our rooms where our luggage awaited us & promptly showered & went to bed so as to be ready & refreshed for the adventures that awaited us the following day!…but not before I went out the door of our room to the sandy overlook where I sat listening to the rush of the ocean for a few minutes.

…see, I mentioned it, once…& yes, that did happen, seriously. There were Dwarf Zebra Hermit Crabs in the sand fighting over a scrap of food. Evan even took a picture of me headed there! (See Below)

Path Outside Our Room At Magic Oceans

Photo Credit: Evan Michael

End Of Day Two


END OF PART ONE

Why I Love...: The Pacific Northwest

Hello,

Happy New Year! I hope that your holidays were relaxing, rejuvenating, healthy, stress free, & uncomplicated. I also hope that you didn’t miss me on the two week hiatus that I took during the latter half of December; I was traveling, seeing family, & even played a show or two. I appreciate you all allowing me the space to do so & having the patience & understanding for those times when I need to dip away for a minute. I always worry subconsciously that no one is going to come back any time I skip a week or so with the blogs, but amazingly so many of you return with your love & your hunger for the stories that I tell, the feelings that I share, the experiences I so exuberantly pass along to you all, & time that it takes to interject my life into yours for however long you choose to read these pages.

I was struggling to find a topic for today’s blog at first, until Evan shared with me a TikTok highlighting a minute of different vignettes around the PNW. Then, as the deep pang of homesickness hit me, so too did the idea for this blog. However, with the singular idea also came a myriad & the idea further blossomed from one stand alone piece to the series I hope that this will become.

I am privileged to call myself well travelled. I have been to many corners of the world & fallen in love with many of the locations & people I have come to know along the way. As someone who travels, & travels often, I often feel a deep sense of “Saudade” (see attached blog) but I also get frequently asked about my favorite places & the question that always seems to follow the locations I disclose is “Why Do You Love It?” So, therein lies the blog idea. My friend Josh Brady, an excellent writer & author himself, reached out to me regarding the PNW post & said “Now you’re making me miss it too. Only lived in Washington for two years, but I miss it every day. Been dying to get back ever since I moved away.” To which I replied “There’s something about the way that the mist & the darkness creeps into your bones & embeds itself there that is inescapable." Which immediately flooded my mind with all of the other things about the region that I hold so dearly intertwined in my DNA. Welcome, dear reader, to the “Why I Love…” series. May it help you find connection around the world & fill your spirit with a sense of wanderlust, comfort, & adventure.

Why I Love…

The Pacific Northwest

There’s a spirit to the PNW that is unlike any other, it maintains the wild, untamed energy that most of the land west of the Rocky Mountains carry, but there’s something deep & brooding about it, like slowly drifting into a bottomless slumber. The freedom that emanates from the “ungentrified, uncolonized, untainted” wilderness allows an unbridled sense of personal expression & peace that is probably, in part, reasonable for the coined slogan “Keep Portland Weird.” And while the free spirited, often aloof nature of its city dwelling people may not be everyone’s cup of tea, their sense of personal freedom & being is undeniably admirable. The PNW is undeniably a place where they have yet to kill their mother. Those who live on the land work, almost to a fault, to preserve the natural beauty & antiquity of their home resulting in a world that feels almost alien to those of us who have become so accustomed to the strip malls & park lotted developments of our modern, American, late-capitalist system.

The PNW is a palette of sullen vetiver, slithering grey, lush alpine, contemplative blues, & rich earthy browns. The unique & ravenous landscape sits nettled perfectly between the Cascade Mountains & the Pacific Ocean feeding & nurturing a rift of ultra-fertile volcanic soil that gives life to everything that plants roots in its ancient fields. Trees grow tall & slender, fed by the creeping mists & the drizzly, spitting rain & waterfalls & life flow freely throughout.

The coast of The PNW is a unmastered darkness that feels simultaneously like the cold embrace of welcomed solitude & the longing for something simpler & altogether uncomplicated. The ocean does little to hide its fury & ferocity here but also isn’t afraid to share the most vulnerable & quiet aspects of itself. The life that teems beneath its hushed waves is cold & hardy & embeds small bits of its soul into the driftwood & tumbled cobbles that wash up on its shore.

I have yet to meet anyone who has made their way up to The PNW & not fallen in love with it. There is simply something for everyone & I think that it connects with something intrinsically primal within us all & makes us feel strangely at home. Despite its urban developments & modern amenities there is something about it that just makes you want to reconnect with nature. It makes your soul yearn for darker days propped up in a cabin by the sea or in the mountains with an exquisitely crafted cup of coffee, some fresh fruit & berries, a fire in the hearth, & a warm bowl of chowder in hand. It is the coziness of a home but lives more so in the space of yearned for loneliness in the best possible way.

I love The Pacific Northwest because it is somewhere that the Earth still sings, it is somewhere that forces you to understand where you fit in the great circle, & that beckons you home away from the noise & the tech to just be in the pure surroundings of Mother Earth. The PNW feels like a fresh breath of the cleanest air, it is at the same time timeless & archaic. I love the PNW because it is the land that birthed me & it is also the land that draws me into the deepest embrace whenever I have the privilege of returning.

-C

Travel Blog: Bonaire: Part Two- You Are Now Free To Dive About The Island.

BONAIRE


Hiya! Welcome back! You’ve stumbled upon the second part of my blog regarding my dad & my trip to Bonaire! If you haven’t read Part One you can find it linked below! I would advise reading the original before venturing into this here sequel, simply for continuity’s sake. Once you’re done you’re more than welcome to join the rest of us here on our second & final part!


PART TWO:

Day Three

We were officially free to roam about to cabin, or in this case, the island. No longer were we contained to Calabas Reef or training dives, it was time to go out & have some leisurely fun. I’d planned out our dive sites the evening prior & basically gave my dad the “trust me” when it came to choosing them, which he did.

One of the main reasons that divers flock to Bonaire is the sheer freedom of it. The vast majority of Bonaire is shore diving, boat dives are few & far between & if they are involved it’s usually at Klein Bonaire or the National Park, both of which are currently closed because of the spreading coral disease. Resorts rent out tanks & vehicles & people load them up to go off to one of the many sites around the island & walk right into the ocean.

I’d planned four dives for us on the Friday in question, loading up the truck with three tanks each before heading off. The first dive site in question was to be at the Southern tip of the island at a spot called Red Slave.

Not a great name, I know, & it detoured me from buying a few shirts later on that has the dive sites all listed on them, but the site gets its name from the historical site adjacent to it. Red Slave is so named because it features a red obelisk & a number of red huts which were former slave dwellings during the days of the slave driven salt trade in Bonaire. There are several obelisks along the west coast of the island, each bearing a color of the dutch flag (including one for the monarchy), & each representing a different grade of salt that was sold at that specific site.

History aside, Red Slave is a well sought after dive site that is typically skipped over because of the swells & the current, but we’d been tipped off by Jack the night before that the current forecast was calling for lower than normal currents at the site in the morning. So we set our sights on Red Slave & made it the site of our first dive of the day. After parking & suiting up we made our way into the water.

The site at Red Slave has a long expanse of sand before the reef drop off. The sloped is rather aggressive, though no where near a sheer wall like the dives up north are. The majority of the coral life here are different varieties of whips & gorgonians, things that like to flow in the current. Apparently this site is also an almost guaranteed turtle sighting, of which we saw none. What we did see were lots of little Pederson Shrimp, a Flamingo Tongue, & as is common in the Caribbean, a plethora of Royal Grammas.

Once we were out of the water it was time to lightly dry & head up the road to our next site, The Lake.

The Lake is so named because of its double reef structure, a common trait among many of the dive sites on the southwestern side of the island. A double reef structure means that you have your normal shore reef, then you have a sand flat, & then you have yet another reef farther off into the ocean. Another thing worth noting about diving is that you always want to start your dive at the maximum depth that you plan to go in your dive. With all of that in mind we made a beeline for the outer reef once we entered the water.

The top of the outer reef at the lakes sits just above the 60 foot mark, which for a new diver like my father, is as deep as he is certified to go. My max depth is double that & some change at 130 feet or 40 meters but being the stand in guide for the two of us, I limited our dives to his max depth. As we were crossing the sand bed, which sits at around 80-90 feet in depth I noticed a massive Queen Conch scooting across the sea floor. It had to be at least a foot across.

On top of the reef we were greeted by the usual suspects; Parrotfish, Trumpetfish, more Grammas, but as we were cruising along we began to hear a faint grinding sound, indicative of a motor boat. Sure enough, right above us on the surface rocketed a motorboat. It always surprises me just how load boats are underwater, it makes me feel bad for anything down there with ears.

We doubled back across “the lake” & investigated the coral colonies along the shoreline reef. My father made the joke at some point to someone that I’m really good at finding the little things in the ocean; the tiny crustaceans, the interesting mollusks, the tiny fish. I think that Lembeh trained me on that front, but on this dive I managed to find a little group of Neon Gobies who had set up a cleaning station amongst the stony corals. They were cleaning the dead skin & parasites off of a couple of Bicolor Angelfish when we rolled up.

When we got back to shore we were met by two Pelicans who were fishing for baitfish in the shallows. We also met a couple from Southern California who had moved to Bonaire when they retired to dive every day. We asked them where we should grab lunch, as we were both damn near starving, & hadn’t eaten breakfast. Despite being a leisurely sport, diving can really take it out of you. They recommended the Ocean Oasis Beach Club just down the road, so that’s where we went!

The Ocean Oasis Beach Club is exactly what the name says, a beach club! It has a rather large restaurant with a full service bar & an assortment of different cabanas all along the beach front. The cabanas can be rented for different time periods throughout the day & are full service with cabana attendants. As I stated, we were starving as well as parched so I got an Awa Di Lamunchi (Curaçao Limeade) & a Salted Caramel Espresso Frappé. Both were to die for, my dad also ended up ordering the limeade after trying mine & the frapp was nothing short of a milkshake. For lunch I got the Ocean Club Sandwich which was a mix between an egg salad sandwich & a grilled chicken sandwich with a side of Yucca Fries. The fries were topped with Sambal which is an Indonesian sweet chili sauce that I hadn’t seen since my time in the South Pacific! My dad got the Crab Roll which was served Maine Style with a Japanese twist! It smacked too!

After lunch we made our way back to the resort to trade out the four empty tanks & add another two to our truck bed. The garage at the shop that serves as a self serve tank depot closes at 5 PM so you have to have all of the tanks that you wanted out before then. Once they’re closed they have a separate bin with a lock to drop your empties after your evening/night dives. With one tank left a piece from the morning & a newly acquired one for the night we headed back down south.

The salt trade in Bonaire is still very much alive, in fact, the majority of the south end of the island is devoted to the harvesting of sea salt. There’s a spot about halfway through the salt flats that Cargill uses to process & load the salt onto ships to send out all over the world, it also features one of the most famous dive sites in Bonaire, the aptly named Salt Pier. I was advised by Rob at Island Hopper here in Nashville to hit Salt Pier in the evening one, because there are far less people diving there, & two, because there are occasionally dolphins there in the late afternoon/early evening.

We didn’t run into any dolphins, but that’s not to say that Salt Pier wasn’t still full of wonders. There’s something eerily awe inspiring when you find yourself forty feet below the surface, under a man made structure, surrounded by aquatic life just going about their business. It has a bizarre unnaturalness to it, almost like when you come across an abandoned building in the woods or an old car that’s just a pile of rust, enrobed in plants. Diving under the salt pier had that time of dissonance to it. The columns also emerge at you from out of the mirk & stand before you in an almost intimidating stature. It’s also entirely easy to forget how massive these structures are until you’re literally right up underneath them, from the shore they don’t seem as daunting.

At Salt Pier we found huge colonies of Sergeant Majors brooding on the discarded building structures the dotted the surroundings of the pier with their purple clutches of eggs. We found a few Purplemouth Moray Eels, tons of Fire Coral, & a school of Yellowtail Snapper.

After our dive we once again went back to Tropical Divers to retrieve all of our night dive gear (lights, locators, etc.) & ditch the wasted tank.

I’d been doing a bit of research & found that a lot of people recommended night diving at a site called Something Special, which was actually a fairly urban spot. Located at the top of Kralendijk’s downtown area, Something Special is half a muck dive, half a reef wall. The site serves as a mooring camp for a lot of smaller boats & the bottom is doted with mooring sites & just a little bit of trash such as tires & even a typewriter. The appeal of Something Special is two fold. The first perk of it is the Tarpon. Tarpon are large, prehistoric sporting fish whose whole bodies are covered in flashy silver scales. They look for the lights of divers at night & come out of the dark to use the light to help them hunt smaller fish. The second appeal is the muck species such as frogfish, seahorses, & the like.

Once again we missed out on the intended fauna of the dive with the exception of the Tarpon. We got in the water right about sundown & made our way through the dusky shallows until evening hit, that’s when the Tarpon began to show up.

The first glimpse of one that I caught was through the edge of the beam of my flashlight. The large fish cruised slowly by wary at first of us. As I continued to follow the Tarpon into the darkness with my flashlight my torch ran smack, dab, right into another one, only this one was staring straight at us, its eyes reflecting its own beams into the night. It wasn’t long until the Tarpon found their courage & were right up next to us, waiting for us to find fish in the muck for them to try & consume. When they’d spot one in the light they would head towards it, slowly turning sideways to try & get the fish in their mouths. The only one that I managed to help catch a fish gulped down a toxic Sharpnose Pufferfish, which is swiftly regurgitated.

Tarpon aside, the dive also gave us many fun saltwater critters; a Slipper Lobster, an Arrow Crab, & more Moray Eels.

As we were wrapping up our dive we ran into a school of Needlefish pressed right up against the water’s surface. If you got close to them or put your light on them they would go so far as to jump completely out of the water. As we were walking back up the bank to the car my dad said to me “I kept waiting for the Jaws music to start playing” when I asked him how he enjoyed his first ever night dive.

After we’d driven back to the resort, dropped our tanks, & dried off, the hunt for dinner began. I’d been recommended Joe’s Restaurant many times from people all over the states & in Bonaire & it just happened to be next door to Tropical Divers, so we thought we’d give it a shot.

Joe’s menu is an interesting assortment of food but the area in which it truly shines is its tasting menu. You get the option of either four or five courses of whatever the owner, Bart, has decided to make for that week. We chose to go five courses & it did not disappoint! The first course was a Goat Cheese dish complete with Langoustines, Microgreens, Mango, Brandy Poached Onions, & some form of Apricot Sauce. It was outstanding! Second was a fish course topped with a different varietal of Poached Brandy Onion, Sun-dried Tomatoes, Garlic Croutons, & an Herb Emulsion. Again, out of this world. The main course was Duck Breast served with a Carrot Puree & a Morel Mushroom Au Jus. Bangin! Then came the cheese course which was an assortment of Dutch Cheeses with different jams & preserves. The Rhubarb was exceptionally good. Finally, the dessert course, A Flourless Chocolate Cake made with Prunes, Apricot Puree, & some form of Sweet Dutch Ambrosia-esque Salad. Dinner was topped off with a house made Liquor that tasted of Vanilla & Caramel.

Perfectly full, exhausted, & a wee bit tipsy, we walked back next door, I popped into the shower to wash the day off & then it was once again off to bed.

End Of Day Three


Day Four

The rule of diving where flying is concerned is 18-24 hours, you’re not supposed to dive within 18-24 hours of a flight. With that in mind we limited our day to two tanks during the morning load-up, though in hindsight we probably could have done a third. That’s okay though.

Since we’d exclusively dove the southern sites on the island we decided to make our last two dives northern. I’d picked out two dive sites for the day: Tolo or Ole Blue & Karpata. Both sites came recommended from both folks in the states & those on Bonaire.

The dive up to Tolo took about thirty minutes. We stopped on the way at a dive shop for a couple of Cokes & a new writing pad for me as my pencil had decided that it had had enough of saltwater & was going to break away a la Kelly Clarkson. When we arrived at the site there were already about a dozen other cars parked with divers &/or snorkelers getting in &/or out of the water. We too had soon parked & were readying our gear for entry.

The shore on the north side of Kralendijk is far rockier than that to the south. It often features sheer cliffs & the dives are much more in line with a wall dive where you need to monitor your depth since the bottom isn’t always visible & your depth in the moment isn’t always as apparent. It’s very easy to find yourself sinking lower & lower without even realizing it, something that my dad didn’t believe until we were in it.

Both sites, Tolo & Karpata are wall dives, both also feature a top reef at around 15-20 feet in depth which makes for a nice, active safety stop. You can cruise around looking at things while you’re breathing off some of the nitrogen that has entered into your bloodstream.

We made our way into the water, through a large rock beach that required a bit of fancy footwork to navigate on your way down. Really fun to do while lugging a scuba tank on your back & fins the lower length of your legs in your hands. We cruised along the top before spilling over down the wall.

The northern shore had its fair share of Creole/Ruby Anthias, something I actually used to have in my tank at home until they got too big & started eating the other fish on my reef. Additionally it has a large quantity of Grammas, French Angelfish, Parrotfish, Bicolor Angelfish, & assorted corals.

When we reached the top of the reef we found a pair of Caribbean Reef Squid hovering just above the whip corals. We followed them for a few minutes but it was very clear they wanted nothing to do with us. Occasionally you’ll get squid who want to interact with humans, not today though apparently.

We finished the dive, got out, went ahead & switched over tanks while making small talk with the groups of people readying or tearing down around us then piled back into the car to head up shore to Karpata.

I mentioned Lewis in part one, the geologist who came to Bonaire with the student group & stayed longer to go out dive on his own. Well he’d been diving with a man named Mario from Rio De Janeiro whom he’d met at Tropical Divers. Lewis had departed a day earlier but Mario & his wife Bene were still going around the island to dive sites. Mario spoke minimal English & I speak little to no Portuguese but Bene spoke a bit of English & a bit of Spanish & so do I, so she & I would basically mediate the conversations between the four of us.

Anyway, as we’re pulling out of Tolo we almost ran smack into them in their car arriving. We continued up the road to Karpata & were starting to gear up when up rolls Mario & Bene.

I, up until this moment, was under the impression that Bene & Mario had been diving together but she explained to me that she doesn’t dive, just Mario, so I extended an invite to him asking if he wanted to dive with us & also wanted me to lead said dive, which he did.

The climb down to Karpata is about twenty steps. At the bottom of the steps is a bouldery beach covered in foot in diameter cobbles that shift relentlessly & are covered in algae. Needless to say, it was tricky getting into the water. Apparently a lot of people start at the previous site, cliff jump with their gear, & drift dive to Karpata. Ya boy is afraid of heights, so the jump wasn’t happening.

The drop off of Karpata is a lot more abrupt than that of Tolo. As we started down the wall my dad & I leveled out right around 60 feet, his max depth. Mario just kept going. I watched him descend further & further until I think he hit around 100-120 feet in depth. I indicated to my father to stay at his 60 foot depth & I went down to about 80 to be the middle space between the two since I was leading the dive. Mario stayed at that depth pretty much the whole time until we looped around to come back. Just before we looped around though he motioned for me to come down to around 90 feet where he’d found a massive Lionfish hiding in the reef wall.

Lionfish are invasive to the Caribbean, usually only being found in the South Pacific. They began to populate the Caribbean because fish tank owners decided to release them into the ocean instead of trying to sell them or turn them into a local fish store. Now there are many countries in the Caribbean that actually have bounties out for Lionfish, paying for people to kill them & turn them in to help to stop the spread of them as they have no natural predators in the Caribbean.

Back on the top reef of Karpata we found even more squid, this time a whole school of them, I’m talking at least 8-10! I found another Flamingo’s Tongue Snail & there was also a massive school of Atlantic Blue Tangs that swam by, picking algae off the rocks as they went.

For lunch we had planned to head inland & visit the town or Rincón. Rincón was built in a valley away from the ocean to hid it from the frequent pirate raids that used to occur around the time Bonaire was being colonized. We went to visit Posada Para Mira, a local Bonaire cuisine restaurant that, as the name suggests, has quite the view!

As I mentioned, Posada Para Mira is a restaurant that serves local cuisine. This includes everything from conch to goat or iguana stew in addition to plantains, beans, corncakes, croquettes, etc. For lunch I ordered a cup of Goat Stew, Fried Conch, & a fresh pressed Passionfruit Juice. The goat stew & the juice were bomb as were the sides, but to be honest, I was expecting the conch to be breaded & fried, not just pan fried, but I guess that’s my own error.

After lunch we decided we were going to go up to Washington Slagbaai National Park & drive around. Diving in the park is currently prohibited, but there’s still a lot of wildlife to see & the park makes up about a third of the island’s total area. Unfortunately we arrived about forty minutes too late because they stop drive arounds at a certain point. That’s not to say that we didn’t still get to enjoy parts of the park. There’s an educational center there with several different areas set up to demonstrate the former goings on of the area, which at one point was a plantation.

After exhausting the limits of what we could do at the park entrance we decided to take a loop around the island to see the East Coast.

Certain parts of the eastern side of Bonaire are mangrove forest, others are coves, at any rate the eastern side has much higher tidal activity & while people do dive it, it’s not advised as a beginner because of its often unpredictable nature. So, leading a trip with a novice diver, the eastern side of the island was off limits, at least where submersible pursuits are concerned. We did manage to stumble upon a plethora of the island’s invasive Donkeys & a large flock of Flamingos hanging out in the salt flats.

We made our way back to Tropical Divers where we returned our tanks, washed our gear, & began packing up for our flight the next day.

At around seven we started to get hungry again & decided that we wanted to go back to Joe’s, this time to try some of the items on their regular menu! We split the Goat Cheese appetizer since the goat cheese app the night before had been so bomb. It was different, but still smacked! I got a Joe’s Salad which was decadently light & refreshing & ended up with the pot roast-esque Veal Cheek for dinner. For dessert we had a Three Musketeers which was a Dark Chocolate Lava Cake with Milk Chocolate Ice Cream & White Chocolate Sauce & a Red Fruit Cobbler. Both were exquisite!

I can’t recall much of the rest of our evening other than planning for the next day, getting timings down, & showering before bed.

End Of Day Four


Day Five

We had a few things to get done on our final morning. First, we needed to check in with Prisca & make sure we had everything in order & finalized for out Stress & Rescue certification. Second, we needed to check out. Third, we needed to collect our (hopefully) dried out dive gear & pack it. Fourth, we needed to go get breakfast & Fifth, we needed to go get souvenirs.

We got everything squared away with Tropical Divers & were able to keep our key until eleven. We then set off to town in the rental truck.

We parked in the town square & went in search of a few trinkets for my dad to take home to Kansas. Most of the souvenir shops were still closed but we happened upon one t-shirt shop & loaded up. One for my dad, one for my mom, one for my sister & brother-in-law, one for my niece, one for my nephew, etc.

Shirts acquired we went back over to Rumba Cafe for breakfast. I once again got a Smoothie & I think an Egg Sandwich. To be honest, I was a little distracted by my dad’s order of Tuna Salad at 9:30 AM to remember what exactly it was that I’d ordered.

After breakfast we stopped at one more shop so that I could get a tank top, then we headed back to Tropical Divers one last time so that I could try to cram my shirts into my already overstuffed lack of luggage.

Our flight was at three-ish but our rental car had to be back at noon, so we were early. Everything from there went fairly smoothly! The flight back to the states was smooth, though Miami International makes you walk six & a half miles just to get through immigration, recheck your bags, & go through security.

All & all it was a good trip, a lot more work than I think either of us were honestly anticipating it being, but in the end I feel confident in my abilities as a Stress & Rescue diver & now as a Master Diver! I can’t wait to see where the next adventure lies & I can’t wait to tell you all about it!

-C

End Of Day Five



END OF PART TWO & END OF BLOG SERIES!!!

Travel Blog: Indonesia: Part Three- Another Day, Another Nat Geo Experience

Welcome back world travelers! We’ve made it, this is the final entry in my Indonesia series revolving around the Lembeh Strait! I hope you’ve enjoyed the journey thus far & are ready to dive (see what I did there) into our final segment today! If you’re not all caught up on my escapades, no worries, I’ll link the other two installments right below this introductory paragraph! Enough of the pretext, shall we continue?


INDONESIA








PART THREE:

Day Five

Woke to another lovely day on Lembeh. The rain that rolled in over night had cooled the morning leisurely to somewhere in the low 80s. My breakfast consisted of my same morning staples; Jasmine Tea, Raspberry, Nutella Toast, Eggs, Bacon or Sausage, Fruit, & Fresh Juice. I think this is the morning I subbed one of the aforementioned items out for Granola topped in Yogurt, Honey, & Chopped Fruit, but that’s neither here nor there. No interesting creatures came out to play either while dinning or while making our way down the dock, however, that’s not to say the day wasn’t interesting. Far from it!

Remember in the last blog when I mentioned that I lost track of our dive sites at a certain point. Well folks, we’ve reached the pinnacle of it as, in my dive log, the next two days are full of sites that were already programed into the SSI app so I didn’t have to deal with the grueling entry process for each site. There are a few, especially the last couple days that I have written down, so we shall return to form when we get there!

Dive #1 of the day was a muck dive & deep one at that. Set at off the shore from Makawide, I remember descending the slope with Sam & Puri (if you don’t know who these people are at this point, you haven’t been paying attention) & feeling like we were fairly deep. The thing about muck diving is that most of the critters typically are fairly muted in their color pallet & if they aren’t, you’re usually using a flashlight to spot them anyway which restores their full color. This is much more noticeable on reefs where the many colored corals seem to all fade to shades of blues & blacks. All of that being a round about way of saying that I didn’t notice we’d dropped down to almost 107ft until I looked at my dive computer & was immediately aghast at what I saw. I even got Sam’s attention to show her & she gave me a “shocked eye” stare back at my readings. Was the depth worth it? Absolutely.

I’m going to sidebar again, sorry you’re dealing with an ADHD riddled writer here, but when I was in Fiji I got my deep water certification & remember telling my father later that I didn’t really have much of a desire to dive that deep again. It drastically cuts your dive time &, in Fiji at least, there wasn’t much to see & all the coloration was gone. Muck diving is truly a different animal I guess!

So what did we find at that depth? We found one of the rarer Lembeh creatures. Not only that, but we sat & watched it hunt.

At a depth of around 90 feet we found the highly sought after Rhinoceros Scorpionfish. The Rhinoceros is a marvelous creature that is uncharacteristically colorful compared to the rest of the Scorpion/Stonefish family. Having evolved to look like a dead leaf, they sway back & forth on modified pectoral fins as they inch across the substrate mimicking the movement of a leaf caught in the sway of the tides. Our Rhinoceros was bright orange & was in the process of hunting a cardinal fish. So, of course we had to sit & watch!

We sat, anchored to the bottom for around ten minutes just watching this fish play coy as it gained footing on its prey inchmeal. We gingerly made our way along with it, being sure to keep it in frame & in light so that we would catch the end of its successful hunt on camera, & that’s exactly what we did! Finally after coming within two inches of the cardinal the scorpion struck. It did so at a rate that my camera, running 120 frames per second, only managed to snag one or two frames of its extended jaws.

Funny enough, while we were pursuing the scorpionfish another ambush predator decided to wriggle its way between Sam & I. A massive Lionfish decided it had had enough of us scaring off any further perspective prey & made its complaints known as it grumpily swam between us.

This dive was a gold mine, in addition to the Scorpionfish we saw another Gurnard skidding across the bottom & two massive Titan Triggerfish, which we were sure to steer well clear of. They bite. Hard.

The most exciting find of the dive, especially for Puri, was the gigantic Sea Turtle we came across resting on the bottom around 40 feet. This turtle was one of the largest I’d seen in the wild & Puri was overjoyed as apparently they hadn’t seen any turtles in a good long while. We tried not to disturb it but it took off as soon as we got within 10-15 feet of it.

Farther up the slope, towards the beginning was a reef that sat just under the water line. Here we found the typical Anemones & Clowns, Damsels, Tangs, etc., but we also found another Sea Crete & several large Yellow Trumpetfish.

For the next dive we headed back towards the resort to a small archipelago of islands. Apparently their name in Indonesian roughly translated to something along the lines of “The Broken Islands” because they used to be a part of one singular mass of land, instead of their own separate entities. We loaded up on our typical rest food & drink items (tea, coffee, water, milo, cake, & fruit) & were just about to get back in the water when I was handed a guitar.

Apparently someone let it slip that I am a singer & the crew had brought a guitar to get me to perform for them. I reluctantly agreed & sat tuning the instrument for a minute before I played them one of my originals which they absolutely adored. I felt so honored & handed back the guitar before I got all of my gear on & was once again down in the blue.

Dive #2 was part reef & part rubble which meant high possibilities for octopus which we did in fact end up finding in the aptly named site, Critter Hunt! What’s our octopus count at this point? Three? Well, this was number four if that’s the case! It was also another unique species from the other three & another highly sought after Lembeh animal. We had stumbled upon a Wonderpus.

Yes, that’s its real name, the Wonderpus which happened to also be the name of our boat for the week. What makes the wonderpus so wonderful you ask? For that I want to divert to a short anecdote that Kim, the resort manager, told us. Kim is a Danish gent who has lived in the Lembeh area for well over 15-20 years. He said that the first time he saw a wonderpus he didn’t think anything of it, in fact, he thought it was a lion fish. How does one confuse an octopus with a lion fish? Well the wonderpus, similar to the mimic, another Lembeh favorite, can do exactly that. It can mimic. Only the wonderpus has the keen ability to alter the texture of its skin along with the length, shape, etc. of its arms & body. Our wonderpus presented to us as white & black striped with big arching brows.

I was, unfortunately, once again pulled away from my Garden Eels to come look at the octopus, but I think it was an acceptable replacement. They did let me sit & watch the garden eels afterwards for a few minutes, so I truly can’t be mad.

Additionally we came across some lovely clusters of Frogspawn Coral, some Snowflake Eels, Coral Gobies, Cowfish, Fingered Dragonettes, Panther Grouper, & I once again attempted to get a Cleaner Wrasse to clean my mouth. It didn’t work, sadly. One of these day, one of these days.

Back to shore we went where I grabbed another Pocari Sweat & sat editing til it was time for lunch & then until it was time to hit dive #3.

Dive #3 at Pintu Colada started at a sparse reef with some monumental mounds of coral. However, that’s not where we spent the majority of this dive. We spent the majority of this dive pestering Male Ribbon Eels.

For whatever reason Ribbon Eels seem to be very curious creatures. I noticed, as I was filming one of the electric blue males that he was very interested in my pointer that I had buried in the ground. I unmoored myself & passed the baton closer to the eel so that it could investigate. The eel would come pretty far out of its den to ‘smell’ the titanium stick I was using, I would get it close & then slowly inch it backwards to see just how far out they were wiling to chase the blue rod & the answer seemed pretty damn far!

Additionally this site had many Chocolate Chip Starfish, several rather aggressive Maroon Clownfish in their Bubbletip Anemones, & some type of buried Moray that I have scoured the internet for but come up blank on its identification.

Our afternoon, post dive, was fairly uneventful. I most likely spent the entirety of it, you guessed it, editing but that’s not to say the interesting parts of the day were over. Oh how wrong that assumption would be because folks, this was a four dive day. We still have the black water dive to talk about.

Now a black water dive comes in a variety of forms. Some where you’re out in the middle of the water attached to a line, letting the little critters come up to you, some where you are sat on the bottom around a light referred to as a “bonfire,” ours was a version of the latter. You see, typically the crew would go out before hand & plant the “bonfire” around 20-30 minutes in advance so that it has time to draw everything in. The problem with this is that it has the high tendency to lead to boredom. We hybridized our black water with just your standard night dive, deciding to plant & ignite the bonfire, the let it set for a while while we went around exploring & poking around in the dark.

We found ourselves some Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish, a Gorilla Crab or two, large quantities of Pipefish, a Blue Spotted Ray, an Orange Blotch Rabbitfish, some Porcupine Puffers, Banded Coral Shrimp, & a baby Barramundi (Sweet Lips). The real prize of the dive, however, were the squid.

We were back out at Aer Prang where we’d dove a few times before & done our previous night dive. Just off the clusters of Trumpet Coral Puri spotted them, two Squid suspended in the water. As we got closer their colors began to shift & change & each of the pigment cells along their body began to light up. One of the squid decided it best to try & gfto & inked, though it didn’t then attempt to flee. We swam around filming these two squid for a good 10-15 minutes before we decided it was best to leave them be & return to the bonfire. However, on the way we encountered a hand made fish trap teeming with captured fish. We all had the same thought in wanting to set the fish go, especially since the trap didn’t seem to have a line or anything attached to it, but we felt it best to leave it incase it was a local’s meal.

I mentioned briefly in the previous blog about night diving the tiny little plankton & organisms that you find while night diving. At one point, after returning to the bonfire, I held my flashlight straight upright & just watched the different varieties of life dancing in & out of the beam. We came across several free swimming crustaceans & Puri found some kind of mostly translucent organism that looked not dissimilar to the double helix of DNA.

We returned to the resort after another bulging day of diving, showered, scarfed down an incredible dinner, & were out before our heads hit the pillows.

End Of Day Five


Day Six

It was time to start winding down, after a full week of diving at this point our dives were starting to become a little more sparse on these our last two days. If you’re unaware, when diving, you need an 18-24 hour period between the time of your last dive & the time of your flight. This is to help prevent the bends. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

I assume you know the drill at this point? Wake up, breakfast of eggs, fruit, bacon or sausage, toast, fresh juice, etc. I suppose I forgot to mention that earlier in the week the kitchen staff had found me a fresh Jackfruit, of which they continued to serve at any meal they knew I’d be at because I was one of the only few dining upon it. Most meals would end with a bowl full of jackfruit, covered in Calamansi Juice. After breakie & gathering the dive gear & camera I took with me off of the boat, it was once again time to dive. Today’s dock creature was a Spadefish, bobbing along the surface in-between the dock & the Wonderpus, our boat.

Our first dive of the day was a rubbly coral spot called Nudi Retread. It was home to many Blue-Spotted Stingrays, some beautiful Maze Corals, many Giant Clams, & even a few big ole Leopard Sea Cucumbers. It’s here where we found a pair of Tozeuma Shrimp but, you guessed it, my camera said “Tozeuma Shrimp who? I’m more interested in this plain old background behind them.”

The site also, of course, had its fair share of Bubble Coral, Anemones con Clowns, Sea Fans, & even a Miniatus Grouper with its bright blue spotted red body.

After we surfaced we headed off to dive #2, set off the island chain in the middle of Lembeh.

Dive two was a reef dive, Sarena Patah. Amongst the reef I once again tried my hand at getting Cleaner Wrasse to excavate my mouth to no avail, found many Tiger Jawfish popping their heads out of the sand, a mating pair of Singapore Angelfish, a school of Pajama Cardinal fish, some Moorish Idols & a Mosaic Pufferfish. After our time below the surface it was time to head back to NAD Lembeh for lunch & my daily ritual of editing over a Pocari Sweat.

Our third dive was at Tanjung Kusu-Kusu or Cape Kusu-Kusu as it would be in Ingles. It was another muck dive location with sparse reef near the two. Immediately upon our decent we discovered a pair of Spiny Tiger Shrimp hiding in a cup sponge. Puri was very excited at the find & wrote on his tablet “Tiger Shrimp” followed by “a very special shrimp.” The shrimp were about an inch in length & were covered in white spikes. The white body of the shrimp had orange spots on it surrounded by smaller black spots & while the resemblance to a tiger is iffy, I can understand why it was so named to a degree.

The dive was also full of many Lionfish & Scorpionfish though the coolest thing we discovered PSTS (Post Spiny Tiger Shrimp) was a rock covered in a microcosm of predator & prey.

All along this little portion of reef, about the size of a Fiat, were schools & schools of Cardinalfish. I’m talking hundreds if not thousands of them, all tucked in the rock & poking out just a tad. Below the school, patiently waiting was a Stonefish blending perfectly into the rock work where it perched, just waiting for one of the cardinals to dip a little bit too close. Just around the rock, under where the stonefish sat was a White Mouth Moray Eel, farther around on the other side of the rocks there was a Ribbon Eel, & amongst the rock there were assorted Dwarf Lionfish & Scorpions.

Though we didn’t end up doing a dive in the evening, that doesn’t mean I was done with aquatic life for the day. In fact, I got a glimpse of some aquatic wildlife on the shore during our leave. No, that’s not a typo, ‘on’ is the correct use here.

Along the beach of our little bay I started to notice little pricks of movement. My initial thought was that it was crabs or some other burrowing crustacean but I was wrong & was so excited to find what it actually was. All along the shore line, on the beach, were about ten Mudskippers. Mudskippers are a type of goby that has evolved to move, in a limited capacity, on land. They come out of the water to feed on the insects that congregate near the shoreline & can be out of water for around two days! Funny enough the Indonesian name for the mudskipper is ‘Ikan Tambio’ which means “prostitute fish” though I can’t for the life of me figure out why they are so named.

Darin, our trip guide & owner of Midwest Aquatics, the dive shop I went through for my certification, Fiji, & Indonesia, had asked previously if we could do a village excursion or something of the like on land. He & Simon came to the conclusion that it probably wasn’t for the best of the group & instead decided on a sunset cruise for the lot of us! The Wonderpus had been stripped of our gear, wiped down, dried out, & instead was packed with coolers with drinks & bowls of snacks

We went all the way up the strait to a village where the locals were farming pearls, the children rushed out into the water yelling any english phrases they could think of to get our attention & we affectionately waved back & yelled “hello” to them on the shore. Once we passed the lighthouse into the mouth of the strait it was revealed that it was Darin’s birthday & his lovely wife & incredibly talented photographer, Cari had requested a cake from the kitchen to bring aboard. We all sang “Happy Birthday” & slices of the cake were passed around before we turned back & headed towards the south end of the strait.

Along the way I was once again passed the guitar but I opted for soft covers & what I call “call to prayer” guitar just to fill the space with something atmospheric & not make it the “Charlie Rogers Show” on someone else’s day.

As we neared Bitung we began to hear & see the music festival that had been going on throughout the week. Spotlights scraped the clouds & music ricocheted across the water with thunderous bass that was soon replaced by actual thunder as a storm rolled in. We all ducked for shelter as if we hadn’t just spent the last week completely drenched & the boat made its way back to shore where showers, dinner, & beds awaited us all.

End Of Day Six


Day Seven

Well, we’re here, the last day of dives for this trip. Have we had fun? Have we enjoyed the ride? I promise you it’s not over yet! Like I said, we still have one more day of diving!

The morning started unceremoniously with the typical wake & break…fast, followed by the morning pack up, & walk down to the dock. There weren’t any dock critters of interest this morning, but we’ll get back to that in the afternoon! Our first dive was Hairy Larry, so named, apparently, because of the hairy diver guide that “discovered” & named it. One thing is for sure, Mr. Larry had found himself a gorgeous reef & wall dive.

The afternoon prior we’d been asked by the guides what we wanted our last day of diving to look like, the general consensus was something a little more reef forward but still balanced with muck & rubble, so that’s what the guides delivered!

We were dropped into the site at the top of the reef. Immediately we were greeted by Honeycomb Grouper, tons of Clowns & Anemones with Benggai Cardinalfish hovering near by, Squirrelfish, Bicolored Angelfish, & even another Day Octopus!

The wall portion of the dive was at around 60-70 feet. It was stacked corals overlooking a sandy forever with a multitude of fish, nudibranchs, & other invertebrates ducking in & out of their high rise hovels. The wall was home to hundreds of varieties of Torch Corals, a Blue Spiny Lobster, & large Granulated Seastars.

As we made our way from the wall, through the rubble downslope from the reef, Puri started picking through the dead coral in search of a very specific score. Puri was searching for Mosaic Boxer/Pompom Crabs. A boxer crab is a wee crustacean about the size of your thumb nail. Their name is derived from the itty bitty anemones they carry in their claws & use to sweep the water for microscopic food, which they then pilfer from the anemones. As Puri was scouting the rock a very interested, very large Sunset Wrasse came over to see if we kicked up anything edible for him. He didn’t seem at all afraid of us divers & in fact was very keen to hang out & remained very close to us the entirety of our search.

Puri eventually did find a boxer crab which he brought over to a large rock on the branch of deceased coral it had been occupying. We three gathered around the rock & Deb & her guide even joined us. We all sat watching the pompom swipe the water & feed. As we were watching it another of the guides cut through us & placed a second pompom crab on the rock with the one we were observing.

I’m still beyond amazed at the eyes on these Indonesian guides. All week they were able to find the smallest of creatures in often the dimmest of lighting. Each of them would point out things that it would often take my eyes thirty seconds to a minute to focus on. The crabs are a great example of this.

After we left the crustaceans to their filter feeding I ran into a Foxface, a few massive schools of Green Chromis, a Naso Tang, many more Bubbletip Anemones.

Once we were back on the reef we immediately noticed the innumerable Giant Clams that dotted the coralscape. Blues, browns, greens, any color, variety, & size you can think of, they were there. I found a Common Egg Cowry feeding on some Leather Coral, which if you remember from my Fiji blog was one of my favorite finds simply because of the striking nature of its deep, black pigment.

The reef was mostly stoney corals & leathers; Birds Nest, Antler Coral, Trumpet Coral, Maze Coral, etc. Amongst these I found a Scopas Tang, two big ole Lobsters, a brown Trumpetfish, Hawkfish, & a Triangle Butterflyfish. I had a really had time returning to the surface because I felt everywhere I turned there were new things to see.

Dive #2 took us back near the site of the previous to a site called Makawidey Pier. The other dive boat, the Mimic, joined us at the site where we sat side by side enjoying the surface interval. About halfway through it I was once again handed the guitar. This time the crew was asking that I perform a mini set for them of anywhere from 3-5 songs. It’s always funny to me how when you’re put on the spot your mind completely blanks on what songs you have available in your catalog, but I did manage to pull out a few more songs for the crew that had worked so hard on our behalf throughout the week.

Makawidey was half reef & half muck. Once we were down we immediately began to find incredible creatures!

We almost landed right on top of a Blue-Spotted Stingray when we entered. It hightailed it out of our vicinity, literally. We headed down father & found three separate Seahorses all within 100 ft of each other; one white & one a light grey, & one with red stripes. Additionally I spend a little more time pestering Ribbon Eels.

The muck eventually gave way to reef where we found a pair of Scissortail Gobies, a Golden Rabbitfish, Benggai Cardinals with babies in their mouthes, a White Mouth Moray Eel, a gigantic field of Pulsing Xenia, & Hammer Coral as far as the eye can see.

I mean that last bit literally, the hammer coral must have covered the length of a football field, it took my breath away. I kept thinking back to the aquarium hobbyists who would kill for just a single head of it. Typically a small head of hammer coral starts are $50 & that’s for something the size of a nickel.

After our second dive we were off to the resort for, what would be the rest of the time for a lot of people. There was no afternoon dive on this day but that didn’t stop me from feeding my saltwater soul a few more times before we left.

In lieu of a dive I took myself snorkeling/freediving. NAD Lembeh Resort has a lovely little house reef that I felt I needed to explore before we departed. I’d spent my week peering into the water & remarking at the wildlife from the dock so I decided to get a closer look.

I didn’t find much on the south end of the reef, but when I got closer to the dock my luck started to change. The dock itself was covered in Long Spine Sea Urchins. As I was (cautiously) passing through the legs of the pier I saw a Triggerfish that I still have yet to identify. The reef on the north end of the resort was flourishing; Clams, schools of Pipefish, Trumpetfish, & Anthias all dotted the rock work. When I got back towards the dock I found an Angelfish upside down picking at the floatation devices, a school of Batfish, & even a few little Boxfish. All just from hopping in the water 100 feet from where I’d been sleeping the last week. Around 4:30 we loaded up the dive boat one last time & headed out.

Yes, I said there was no afternoon dive BUT there was an early evening one! This was a dive I’d been looking forward to all week long. We were going on a Mandarin Goby dive!

Mandarin Gobies, Seahorses, Garden Eels, Cleaner Wrasse, all my obsession. I hadn’t seen a single mandarin the entirety of our trip & it was really starting to bum me out because they’re one of my all time favorite fish & there we were about to do a whole dive dedicated to them.

The mandarin dive takes place in a bay called Bianca, it’s named after the boat, The Bianca, that has been anchored there for a few decades now. The dive is a stationary dive, meaning that you sit on the bottom & wait for the things to come to you. So sit & wait we did.

The dive takes place at twilight, right when the sun has sunk below the horizon. We were all kneeling around a cluster of broken coral waiting. You aren’t allowed to use the full brightness of your torch & red light is mandatory.

So there we sat, waiting on mandarin gobies. Then, almost all at once, they started to pop out of the coral debris, they seemed to come from everywhere. The larger females would come out, flare up a little bit, & the smaller males would come pouring out in an attempt to gain her affections. Once she’d found one she liked they’d do a courtship dance where they rose up in the water, hooked together side by side. Then on cue they’d both release (& release) & depart from one another. The largest female in the area did this with around six different males.

As the light faded more & more fish began to emerge from the rubble including an assortment of Clown Gobies. They perched on the rock watching us watch the mandarins. There were green ones & black ones & one very large Citron one. I went to point them out to the people to my right but their guide had motioned for them to leave & they ended up decimating the rubble bed in their wake sending the clown gobies scattering in all directions.

Upon our return we were greeted by a barbecue, the staff had taken the tables & chairs from the dinning hall & arranged them in a line between the entrance & the bar. In the middle of the table were several plates of sashimi fresh caught that day & at the end were an arrangement of grills & griddles all boasting different assortments of meats & vegetables.

We enjoyed the food in mixed company, mingling with a group of snorkelers out of England who had come to the resort on a snorkel tour, something I was unaware was a thing. We all dined & exchanged stories, us at the end of our week, them just a few days into theirs. After we supped a cake was passed around the table.

With bursting bellies & smiling faces we adjourned to bed where we drifted off to sleep before the next day’s conquest home began.

End Of Day Seven


Day Eight

I debated on whether or not I wanted to include “day eight” as if was a travel day. Then upon reflection I found myself remembering many interesting things about the day. The odd part about writing this is that it will butt up into my Singapore Blog which I actually decided to publish in advance before going back to do the dive blogs. You can find a link to it at the very end of this blog.

We slept in a little on this day. Not having to beat the clock to get breakfast in before our dive time, we enjoyed a leisurely morning. After we had our fill of breakfast we all went back to our separate abodes to pack & make sure our electronics were charged for the return trip back. I was the only member of my group separating from the rest of them & the anxiety of 20+ hours of travel was palpable amongst my compatriots.

We left the resort begrudgingly, just short of noon. The tide was out at the time of our ferry across the strait so when we reached the cement dock on the other side we had to all climb onto the roof of The Wonderpus to get back on land. We all were escorted down the dock where locals came out in droves to observe the foreigners. The children yelled “hi” over & over at us & it was explained that it was probably the only english words they knew. We returned each “hi” in kind, accompanied by a smile of appreciation.

Our convoy to the Manado Airport was a series of minivans driven rambunctiously down the roads. We passed the festival grounds, several markets, & many curious locals who waved or peered into the windows at us. My car was the first to reach the terminal by a long shot & we sat for around 15-20 minutes waiting for the others to arrive with out gear so we could tip our driver.

The waiting game then began as our ticketing agents had not yet shown up. I went out in search of food, finding a Starbucks & a convenience store to satiate me. It was well over an hour & a half before someone showed up to check us in & we were all starting to get nervous that we were going to miss our flight.

Though I was the first in, I was the last out. I had to pay an extra baggage fee for my gear which took a while to process & I ended up being the last member of our group through security which didn’t end up mattering because our flight was delayed.

Ever the curious pallet I wandered into another convenience store while waiting to board & was met by many different Durian products. For the unaware, durian is a type of custardy fruit whose aroma is so pungent it’s often outlawed from Southeast Asian public transport. I was curious, as I always am, & opted for the durian ice cream with fresh durian in it. Y’all. No shame, truly. I regretted it. I kid you not, to my westernized pallet durian tasted like a mix between smelly feet (just assuming that flavor) & gasoline (that one too) with just the slightest banana & mango taste thrown in. The worst part of it was that it then spent the next several hours fighting me & I could not, for whatever reason, clear the taste of it out of my mouth.

Our flight finally departed & we were given a sealed cup of water & a literal entire package of cookies upon boarding.

When we got to Jakarta night had fallen & we all gathered our things before boarding the shuttle that had been arranged to take us to our hotel.

The hotel was around 15 minutes away from the airport & the journey there brought up a rather large discrepancy in the life of the people of Jakarta. From the terminal we were taken on highways, beautiful highways before turning into what I can only describe as shanty towns. We maneuvered around these shanty towns until we came to what had to be a seven or eight foot wall. We traced the wall, dotted with shacks, around to a gate where armed guards let us through two separate gates where the surroundings intently went from impoverished to glistening in excess. If I’m being honest it made me feel icky. We had arranged to stay at the FM7 Resort Hotel for the evening.

The resort was stunning. Modern artwork, pristine flora, exquisite lighting & cleanliness. It was a very sharp contrast to the world just outside of its massive walls. The resort was also a complex, an entire network of buildings & roads spread over a large number of acres. We all checked in & were given our room keys where we all went our separate ways to sleep for only a few hours before our flight from Jakarta departed to Singapore.

End Of Day Eight


END OF PART THREE


END OF BLOG