ParkRoyal Pickering

Travel Blog: Singapore- Part Two: It's Goin' Down In Chinatown

Welcome back! First things first, if this is your first time joining us, you are coming in on part two (technically four if we are counting Malaysia) of this blog series! If you don’t feel like diving head first into this whole ordeal then I would advise you to go back &, at the very least, read part one of the Singapore portion of this adventure before we continue on. Don’t worry, I’m not going to make you go searching for it, I’ll have a nice set of links waiting just below this paragraph for you to go in & visit! If you’ve already read part one, welcome back, thank you for returning to finish out this blog series with me! I appreciate your patronage! I hope we’re ready to bring this on home together! Alright, enough of my blathering, let’s get going shall we?


PART TWO:

Day Eleven

Our initial plan was to wake up at a relatively decent hour & potentially go back to Barry’s Raffles Place. Between the slight hangover & the struggle I had sleeping with my eye feeling like it was being tased out of its socket, we slept in. Feeling like I shouldn’t continue flying by the seat of my pants where my ocular health is concerned, I woke up & immediately went to digging about the internet for my medical options as someone visiting the country.

My vision was perfectly clear at this point. No fogging, no halos, none of it. What was hanging around from the day prior was the eye burn & a new found extreme sensitivity to light. I still felt that if some of the symptoms were hanging around that I probably should go about some form of medical treatment just in case.

What I found basically said that unless you have specific travel insurances, you have to pay out of pocket for medical treatment in Singapore. Even with that being the case, it was reassuring to see that I wouldn’t be going into debt over a specialist or urgent care visit like one does potentially anytime you need anything in the states. I reached out to a local hospital & their ophthalmology department to see what their options for me were. They were able to book me a same day appointment for midafternoon & I was told that the visit, medication, & imaging would be around $300 Singaporean or $235-ish in USD…for a specialist…at a hospital…with imaging & everything…I was warned that if it turned out to be something & further tests were required it would max out at around $1,000 SGD or $785 USD. I booked the appointment & began to get ready for the day.

I’d texted my Singaporean friends, Linus & Karen, pretty late in the evening prior asking their recommendations as someone on a tourist visa looking for medical care. They’d sent me a recommendation for a walk-in urgent care just down the street from us, which they have trusted for years to house their primary doctor. They said it would also be less than $100 SGD/78USD for the visit in total. Evan & I got to talking & we both agreed that it might be wise to swing by a walk-in for preliminary testing & analysis & if they didn’t find anything wrong to go ahead & just wait til we got back stateside to have an appointment with the doctor in Nashville who has treated me in the past.

Yueh Hai Ching Temple. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

It was just before noon when we left the ParkRoyal Pickering to start the day. The directions that Linus had given me to the clinic were that it was right next to the Yueh Hai Ching Temple on the way towards Lau Pa Sat. Evan brought his camera with him, as the day prior, he’d wished he’d had it on our walk back from Barry’s so he could take some photos of the temple. Now he had his chance.

I left him to take some photos while I walked next door to The Medical Clinic (yes, that’s the actual name) to get checked in. It was just short of lunch time so the clinic was a little crowded, but they assured me that it would probably only be around 30 minutes to be seen. I started filling out all the online documentation right around the time that Evan rejoined me.

I genuinely think it might have only been about 20 minutes before I was seen. The receptionist called my name, then directing me to a door that housed a small, personal doctor’s office on the other side. He introduced himself, I sat down & explained my symptoms, he did a series of tests on my eye, & gave me his diagnosis.

He basically reinforced the Ocular Migraine theory. They treat glaucoma & glaucoma like symptoms very seriously in this part of the world as those with Asian decent are far more prone to having it, but he didn’t think it was that. At least not something in need of immediate medical attention. He thought that the stain & burn of my eyes was probably brought on from my eyes trying desperately to focus for the duration of a day & he told me that my affected eye, the left one, looked incredibly tired. He prescribed me an antibiotic eye drop to fight any potential infection that might have caused it or might result from my eye working over time, & told me to cancel with the ophthalmologist & wait to see a doctor til I got back home. The entire cost of my visit, medicine included, ended up being $43 USD…

Getting Directions. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Hunger was setting in (for one of us whose name starts with an ‘E’ it was hanger…) & the slight hangover/leftover headache from my eye was demanding caffeine & food. I went through my travel list to see what coffee shops were near by that I’d been recommended or found on my own & we landed on Common Man Stan.

Just about a 10 minute walk from The Medical Clinic (proper noun) was Common Man Stan, located on Stanley Street. Cute. Common Man Stan is a cafe that came highly recommended by the folks on the internet & the reviews on the page. It was voted one of the top coffee spots in Singapore from several different sources, so off we went!

As it was lunch time (remember I told you that above?), CMS was very busy. There was a line of people waiting to be sat, but, since we had plans to find the majority of our lunch elsewhere, we got our coffee & pastries to-go. Which there was no line for. We both ended up with iced Kaya Toast Lattes & went in on an Almond Croissant to share.

Chinatown. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We didn’t know that the pastries in the case were from Tiong Bahru Bakery, a pastry shop that had come up multiple times when I was looking through restaurants pre-trip. But when either of us tried it, we were amazed. I took a bite, Evan took a bite, I looked at him & said “…should we get a few more of these?” He immediately approved & we went in on another almond croissant & his favorite, a Pan Au Chocolate, for either later in the day or the next morning.

A similar thing happened with our coffee. We took a drink of the latte they’d made for us & we unanimously decided we needed to buy beans from them for our espresso machine back home. I’m actually sitting here drinking a hazelnut latte as I type that uses beans from Common Man Stan!

Now it was time for a proper lunch.

There are several dishes that come to mind when it comes to Singapore. We explored a lot of them in part one of this blog; satay, chili crab (kind of), Peranakan, laksa, kaya toast, but there’s one stand out that is missing here. That would be Hainanese Chicken Rice.

Hainanese Chicken Rice is a very simple dish. Often considered the national dish of Singapore, it simply features steamed or roasted chicken served over chicken broth rice & paired with a garlic-chili sauce. Sounds basic enough, but there is something simply exquisite about this dish when is done well, & there are a lot of places in Singapore that do it exceedingly well.

There are literal thousands of chicken rice shops in Singapore & everyone has their favorite. I went to one the last time I was in Singapore that I really enjoyed, but I didn’t want to limit myself to the places that I had already been this trip, even though I did enjoy a lot of the stops last time. We also were in a different part of town, so I pulled up Google & looked through several different blogs, articles, forums, posts, etc. while we were waiting for our coffee at Common Man Stan. The general consensus, & the one we were closest to was a stand down the road at Maxwell Food Centre called Ah-Tai Hainanese Chicken Rice.

Thian Hock Keng. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Our path to lunch took us by Thian Hock Keng, a Tianfu temple to the sea goddess Mazu. The building was spectacular from the outside & there was some form of ceremony being held as we went by. Additionally we passed through Ann Siang Hill Park where Evan stopped to take pictures of some of the resident cats sleeping amongst the bamboo.

The centre was pretty crowded, almost every one of the hawker stalls had a line. Ah-Tai is one of the 290 Michelin recognized stalls so its line went down the corridor. We got in line before realizing that they were cash only. I left Evan there & went in search of an ATM, telling him to let people in front of him if he got up to the front & I still hadn’t returned with cash.

Sleepy Cats In Ann Siang Hill Park. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I found an ATM at the north entrance of the centre, except that I had taken out my debit card from my three card wallet the day or two prior in favor of two of my credit cards that doesn’t have international fees & my ID. I tried to pull out cash with either of them but neither have a pin, so I had to go back to Evan & swapped places with him.

Chicks In The Park.

Eventually cash was secured, a few people got to cut in front of each of us in line, & we ordered the combo plate which came with the chicken rice, chili-garlic sauce, bok choy, cucumber, & black sauce (a thicker, sweeter soy). We wondered around the crowded tables before finding an open shared spot to hunker down & eat our meal.

The chicken rice was out of this world. I’m always blown away by how cozy yet so simple it is. The chicken was perfectly juicy, the rice salty & savory, the bok choy still had some bite. It was excellent. I think our total for the two of our lunches was less than $10 USD as well, which is just wild.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

After lunch we decided to do a bit of wandering around. One of the things I’ve started doing when we visit different places is trying to visit a local fragrance house. Whether I end up with a bottle or samples is beside the point. I just like going in to see what the local scent stylings are, what’s being distilled & combined, what unique footprint a city or country has that gets infused in the scents being produced. Google maps lied to me though, so the one I was after that was near our dining spot had moved since the last update online. We decide instead to walk back towards our hotel & see if anything caught our eye along the way.

Chinatown Street Market. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

On our walk we ended up across the street from the Maxwell Food Centre & next to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum, which, as the name suggests, claims to house one of the teeth of The Buddha. The last time I was in Singapore the temple was closed for renovations, but today the doors were wide open & they were welcoming in guests. As we entered the temple they began an afternoon prayer ceremony. We stood & watched reverently before making our way around the outer wall of the temple, observing the many statues, & heading out the back.

From there we made our way into the China Town Market where we perused the many shops, took the occasional photo or step out of the afternoon heat, & got some fresh squeezed lemonade. Mine was passionfruit, Evan got regular.

Around this point the humidity & sun were starting to get to us, so we decided to go in search of some caffeine to take back to the hotel with us. I’d taken us back to the main road to head to one of the coffee shops I enjoyed the last time I was through, September Coffee, just to find them closed when we walked up. After a quick recalibration we ended up finding another coffee stop on my list that was in the direction that we were heading, Muro Coffee.

Smoked Mocha Affogato At Muro

Muro Coffee is a black & white, vintage leaning specialty coffee shop. It’s on a second floor walk up, with its own third floor loft space, & windows that overlook the street below. Their menu is a mix of standard & inventive coffee & tea beverages, in addition to some bites that looked pretty incredible as well! We propped up in the corner by the stairs, against one of the windows so we could sit there & people watch as we recaffeinated.

I ordered a Smoked Mocha Affogato & Evan got the Strawberry Matcha. Both drinks were outstanding, but I am always keen on a great affogato! We sat & sipped & enjoyed the air conditioning for a minute before we thanked the staff & continued back to our hotel.

Gardens At ParkRoyal Collective Pickering.

Back at the ParkRoyal the obvious ailment to the hot day was the chilly, chilly pool. We went back to the room, changed, & headed down promptly once we’d returned.

We first walked the garden loop that makes its was around the outer edge of the fifth floor. As it was spring, many of the flowers were in bloom & the entirety of the walk smelled decadent. After looping back around we set our things down on a lounge chair & dipped into the frigid water of the ParkRoyal’s pool once more.

Cooling Off At The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We hung out here for a little bit, Evan did a little photo shoot of me against the ledge of the pool (no clue yet if any of those turned out, guess if there’s one in here they did), then got out to get a closer look at the locker room facility, the gym, & the massage center.

Our plans for the evening were laid out. I still had interest in the fragrance brand we’d sought out earlier, but their only location close to us was at The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands. We needed to head that way anyway to make the 7:45 PM SuperTree show & then get over to our 9:15 PM reservation at Jigger & Pony.

We got dressed for our evening ahead before heading downstairs & across the street to the subway to catch the North-South Line to Marina Bay. Just a three stop trip, we were there in no time. The subway let out right under The Shoppes. We took the escalator up & found the interactive map of the facility to chart our course.

We had three main goals at The Shoppes. The first, naturally was the fragrance shop, we also were planning to hit Aesop for more sunblock as The US stores carry a different formula than the international locations, & I was entirely out of clean clothes for the trip home, so I wanted to pop into Lululemon for some things to wear on the long trip back. While examining the map we also found that they had a COS in the center. COS is H&M’s higher quality brand & there are only a few physical stores around the world.

We popped into COS first. I ended up getting a nice, plain light blue T-Shirt, & Evan found a fragrance of theirs that he liked that is only available in international markets. Then came Aesop.

The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands.

Right across the indoor river (yes, indoor river) from COS was Aesop. We were welcomed in, they gave us tea, & despite knowing & picking out exactly what we were after, we chatted a bit with the staff before checking out & receiving a vial of the tea to take home with us. Next up was Lululemon.

Just around the literal river bend we found Lulu. I ended up getting one of their freshly launched sweat shorts & a zip up hoodie. My travel plan was to pair the two of those with my freshly purchased COS shirt. While we were in Lulu the staff was very interested in Evan & I. They asked about our travels, how we met, what each of us did, which then ended up landing the group pulling up my music page. I got out of there before songs could be played. I don’t generally enjoy listening to myself…

I bet you’re wondering why, at this point, that I haven’t given you the name of the fragrance shop I was trying to hunt down, especially since I am typically fairly meticulous when it comes to tagging & naming locations throughout my blogs. Well, it’s because we never got to go. We did find the shop itself, after a whole bunch of trial & error within The Shoppes, but when we walked up to it…the shop was closed. Not closed down, just closed for the day, something that hadn’t been in the listing of the multiple places we looked. So that was a bust, unfortunately.

From The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands we took the massive escalator up into the Marina Bay Sands hotel itself.

The hotel is a monolith of modern Singapore. It overlooks Gardens By The Bay on one side, the Marina Bay/Singapore River on the other, then the Downtown Core on one end, & Raffles Place on the other. It is truly the most iconic building on the Singapore skyline & she knows it. I personally have never stayed in it as, from what I’ve seen from the vibe of the facility, it’s a little too clean cut & ‘beige’ for my taste. It’s also a pricy stay for most. But, in addition to acting as the focal point for the area, it also is one of the main gateways to the gardens beyond.

We ended the hotel on the ground floor then followed the prompts outside to an elevator that took us up to a suspended bridge that cuts back through the hotel & down into the gardens, across the Dragonfly Bridge & finally into the SuperTree Grove.

The first time I was in Singapore I actually just happened upon the SuperTree Grove & the show that happens therein. After a day of a lot of cocktails at MO Bar I was trying to make my way to Satay By The Bay for dinner & stumbled into the nightly show. It’s shockingly magical! I don’t say that lightly either. Evan definitely did not grasp the experience himself until he’d witnessed it in person.

SuperTree Eclipse. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

On paper it’s a pretty mundane pitch. The SuperTrees are these giant metal structures that have all sorts of climbing plants, bromeliads  & orchids all up the sides. They’re equipped with a series of lights & effects & some of the larger ‘trees’ have a sky bridge that connects them that you can pay to go up on. The main cluster has 4 large SuperTrees with 8 additional smaller trees around them. All in all the gardens have a total of 18 SuperTrees, but the light show happens at the main SuperTree Grove.

People gather around the grove sitting on the benches, some of the grassy areas, or they do what we did & lay right on the concrete (judge if you will, I’d do it again & probably will). The show is announced & changes theming every so often. There’s a calendar posted online. Tonight’s show of Garden Rhapsody was Opera In The Gardens & featured prominent opera songs from an assortment of different operas from the Romantic Era. It was quite honestly, breathtaking.

Garden Rhapsody. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I studied a great deal of opera in college & thus, have an appreciation, but I was concerned that the show wouldn’t entirely translate to someone without that history, such as Evan. That fear went unwarranted. He was just as in awe of it all as I was & walked away from it raving about the show. Again. Simple lights & music against a bunch of manmade metal trees sounds like a hard sell to most. It’s entirely worth it. To quote Evan “this beats any firework show I’ve ever seen.”

Borealis.

On Saturday-Monday, after Garden Rhapsody, they switch over to a program called Borealis that mimics the Northern & Southern Lights. It uses garden misters to create a base layer of fog overhead before they cast lasers into the mix. The swirling particles of the mist in the wind catch the lasers & create an effect similar to the Aurora Borealis/Aurora Australis. It’s absolutely mesmerizing.

We were a bit hungry after all of the amazement & had a little bit of time to kill before we needed to hop the train to Jigger & Pony, so we went over to the nearby Jurassic Nest Food Hall & got calamansi juice, ice cream, & some fries with sambal. Trying to relive Malaysia with that last one I guess. We then walked through the gardens to the Thomson-East Coast Line which we took from the Gardens By The Bay stop back up to Maxwell.

Jigger & Pony, much like Odette, is on a whole bunch of lists. #9 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Bars 2025, #3 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2025/Best Bar In Singapore. It’s won many Spirited Awards including World’s Top 4 Best Cocktail Menus. She is that girl. We got sat at the bar with our Italian bartender, Saverio. He walked us through the menu, pointed out a few favorites, & we were off to the races!

They were on their “Embrace” menu, which used the motto: Embrace Change, Embrace Tradition, Embrace You. It focused on the celebration of the new cocktail world, the traditional cocktail world, as well as celebrating the things that make a person special & the celebration of self expression.

Negroni At Jigger & Pony

My first drink was from the traditional portion of the menu & was in fact a drink of Saverio’s design. A Negroni, but not just any negroni, a negroni that featured Ford’s Gin, Campari, Mancino Chinato Vermouth, grapefruit, & orange bitters! Evan went the embrace you route got the Espresso Martini with Grey Goose Vodka, Jigger & Pony espresso martini blend, sweetened with rainforest honey, & featured a cocoa tuile on top that you cracked with a spoon! My negroni knocked it out of the park, but Evan’s martini was also deserving of top marks.

Along with our first round of drinks we also ordered food. Black Pepper Crab Dip with Toast; Blue Crab, Mascarpone, Rice Wine, & Kampot Pepper. Bomb. The real thing we need to talk about here is the sandwich though…The Bikini Sandwich. Woof. Burrata. Serrano Ham. Black Truffle. That’s it. Heaven. Heaven on bread. Holy wow. Truly one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in my life. Yes, it’s that good. The surprise of the evening right there.

Pony Star Martini At Jigger & Pony.

Our next round of drinks was an alcohol switch up. I know, a big “no no” for those of us, myself included, prone to hangovers. The drinks just sounded too good, & were! I went embrace you & did the Pony Star Martini. A riff on the Porn Star Martini, the Pony Star is Don Julio Blanco Tequila, passionfruit, makrut lime leaf, lemon, egg white (it makes it silky & gives it a foam), & Telmont Reserve Brut Champagne. The passionfruit aspect comes in a half dollar sized boba-like bubble of juice that is served sidecar. It’s fun & light & fruity & ultimately very refreshing. Evan did the Paloma. Off the traditional menu (I guess we traded from the first round), the paloma was concocted with Espolòn Reposado Tequila, lime, guava, & pink grapefruit soda. It also fit the bill of everything I just described the Pony Star with above!

As we were sat there, drinking & eating away, this rather young couple on their honeymoon came up & sat next to us. They were only in the bar for about 30-45 minutes & in that time they have to have ordered & absolutely slammed about 8 drinks. They would literally order a drink as a duo, pass it back & forth, & drink it. As soon as they were a few sips in, the next drink had already been ordered. They were having a great time! It wasn’t drinking out of frustration or anything negative, I think they just wanted to try the majority of the menu & the way they went about doing that was just to full on go hard in the paint with it. Like I said, they were only there for around 45 minutes tops.  It was just a charming scene to watch unfold.

Slinga Sling At Jigger & Pony.

Our last drink of the night was a shared one. I felt we couldn’t leave Singapore without having at least one of the cocktails that the nation is famous for, the Singapore Sling. In honor of the 60th anniversary of Singapore becoming a country, J&P had created their own twist on the over 110 year old cocktail. They called it the Singa Sling. Monkey 47 Gin, Cointreau, cherry, pineapple, & carbonation. Served tall & foamy, their sling was designed to mimic the Singaporean Flag. This drink too was light & fizzy, just with a little bit stronger gin-ness to it.

From there we called it a night. We paid our tab, thanked Salverio for his & the rest of the staff’s hospitality, grabbed a grab, & went on back to the ParkRoyal to sleep off a long day.

Lantern At Yueh Hai Ching Temple. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Day Eleven


Day Twelve


Shutters. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We slept in until about 9:30/10 AM. It was as long as we could with the long travel day ahead of us while still wanting to do a few things that morning. Our checkout time from the hotel was set to noon, although we did try to get a late check out time. Unfortunately they couldn’t accommodate us because the hotel was entirely booked that evening & they needed to get in to clean the room. We did a preliminary pack of our things before we headed out for the morning to run a few quick, last minute errands & hit a few more stops.

Coffee, of course, was a must. We decided to go back to Muro. We’d enjoyed it so much the afternoon prior & I had wanted to get a mug from there that was made by a local potter, but they only took cash for that portion of the business since it was separate from the coffee shop itself. On the way there we ate the pastries we’d acquired from Common Man Stan the day before.

Trio Of Drinks At Muro.

We sat down at Muro, this time by the coffee bar, & ordered an assortment of drinks. Yes, an assortment of drinks. We thought three of them sounded good, so we got all three & just passed them around. The drinks were their orange espresso tonic, their iced matcha latte, & a local iced tea blend. I think we may have ranked them in the same order. On our way out the door I purchased my mug & we also got a bag of their espresso beans to take home!

It’s worth noting that one of the things that Evan & I collect on our travels is ceramics. We have plates, bowls, cups, etc from all around the world. I had chosen one from Muro, Evan had his eye on a shop that had been closed the day before called Late Morning.

Late Morning is a tableware shop located in Chinatown. They have an assortment of ceramics & glassware from local, as well as world renowned, artisans. They also sell flatware & a few other items like soft lights, incense & room sprays. In the back they also have a small coffee shop that primarily does pour overs & simple milkies (as the aussies call them). Evan unfortunately struck out here, but the shop was definitely still worth the time & the singling out that we gave it.

We got back a little later than we’d hoped so we had to rush upstairs to shower, change, & get our bags entirely put together. We ended up at check out right as the clock struck noon. I know they probably would’ve given us a few minutes grace, but we felt that we should be entirely prompt for one reason or another. Cleaned up, packed up, & in the new fit that was purchased yesterday, we left our glorious time at the ParkRoyal Collection Pickering behind & hopped at cab to Changi International Airport.

The Jewel. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We were very early for our flight, part of the reason we requested the late checkout, but fortunately EVA Airlines allowed us to drop out bags & check in for our flight as soon as we arrived! With a lot of time to kill we made our way from the terminal we were in over to The Jewel to see the waterfall once more & walk around the shops.

It was surprisingly hot in The Jewel. I’m not sure if the AC was out, or if the multitude of windows just makes it impossible to keep cool during the day, but it was warm. This made our time there less than I think we would’ve stayed other wise. We popped into a few separate shops, including The Pokemon Center, but ultimately ended up leaving empty handed.

Striking out at The Jewel we ended up just going ahead & heading through security. Changi has a pretty decent food court & we were both getting hungry. We took the escalator up, divided, & conquered.

Butterfly In The Garden. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I ended up doing a Hot & Sour Noodle Soup. I am a huge fan of hot & sour soup & had never seen it with noodles before. It slapped. Might need to make it here soon. I also got a Kaya Toast for us to share, some Soup Dumplings, & each of us a calamansi juice, which we both ended up going in for seconds on. Evan got a Bahn Mi & some Bao Buns for us to share.

Butterfly Gardens. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

After lunch we stopped by the Butterfly Garden & swung into 7-Eleven for some plane snack prior to heading over to our gate.

Our flight out of Singapore left 3:45 PM local time. We flew from there to Taipei on EVA Air where we landed around 9 PM following the, just short of, five hour flight. Once we arrived in Taipei we made our way through local security & up to Duty Free where we stocked up on snacks & gifts for our flight crew to enjoy across the Pacific.

There’s this thing that Evan & I do on longer flights where we gift the cabin crew a care package just as a ‘thank you for all you’re about to do.’ Typically it’s all sharable size bags of things like chocolate candy, gummy candy, crackers, chips, dried fruit, etc.. We try to avoid things with nuts for allergy purposes. We also include a hand written note signed by the two of us that just thanks them in advance for their help & patience. It’s a small thing, but the crews seem to enjoy it.

After we’d collected out gift bag of goodies we went to the food court just to burn through some time.

Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport is also a very nice airport. I always enjoy flying through it. Part of the appeal is the food options. They have a lot of stalls that sell mostly local dishes & favorites, one of those for me is Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup. Unfortunately the stall had closed by the time we got there. The other main attraction of the food in the airport in Taipei are the Mazu Village Wheel Pies. They are served hot & freshly made & are either filled with just custard or with crunchy peanut butter & custard. I prefer the custard ones. We split an order of those with a boba tea & Evan also got some curried beef that was served with this sauced cabbage that I could’ve eaten buckets of.

Our next flight out left just before midnight & was an eleven hour trek back in time (we crossed the dateline so it was still the same day), over the ocean to Seattle.

It’s always funny to me when I tell people how long some of the flights I’ve taken around the world are. The thing is that the more you do them, the easier they get. You get accustomed to the time, the seating, the in & out of sleep drift, & you adapt. Your patience gets better & better, you just have to take the leap & actually start doing the flights. I remember when the four hour flight from Nashville to LA felt like forever. Now it’s just a hop, skip, & a jump. My first long flight, nine hours from LAX to Fiji, felt like forever. Now any nine hour flight feels a bit like a shrug. It is what it is, you know. If you want to see the world you need a can do attitude & to buck it up sometimes. I also recommend going through & downloading all of the shows, movies, books, games, etc. that you’ve been meaning to watch/read/play & just marathoning them. I especially recommend the shows or movies that you were like “if I had the time to sit down & watch it I would, but I’m not going to set aside time to go see it/consume it.” You end up finding a lot of gems that you missed & you don’t feel as bad falling in & out of sleep while viewing them.

Olympic Through The Window.

We landed in Seattle as the sun was setting. We flew over Olympic National Park, so the view out the window was spectacular. Fair warning to anyone flying internationally into Seattle. The walkway from your arrival to immigration & baggage claim is a long one. We’re talking like a fifteen minute walk at least & there aren’t any bathrooms until you get towards the end of said walk.

I had been texting my friend Morgan off & on from months to weeks to days & hours prior to our arrival. Morgan is a friend of mine from all the way back in middle school & she & her husband Greg live in Seattle. We had around a five hour layover in Seattle & she & I had been coordinating to get dinner together in that time. I texted her once we got to baggage claim, as she only lives about 20 minutes from the airport, because we were the only arrival at the claim/immigration checkpoint. So I thought we’d be quick. I spoke too soon.

Because of the ludicrously stupid tariffs in place in The US, it actually ends up cheaper for shippers from Taiwan to package shipments in ‘personal belongings/boxes’ & fly in with the packages before shipping them out from inside The US. Yes, they’re that bad. So I would say about 90% of the cargo being offloaded from the luggage carousel was boxes. The only problem was that the boxes weren’t being collected so they were just clogging up the wheel.

No new bags would drop if the carousel sensed there was already a bag/box in the way so I sat & watched as a minute & a half went by between bag distributions onto the belt. I was starting to panic around the twenty five minute mark when we still hadn’t seen an inkling of our luggage, even though there had been cargo being deposited that whole time. Finally around five minutes later our bags came sliding out.

We both have Global Entry, not that immigration was backed up in the slightest, so it took us less than thirty seconds to get though. I’m glad Morgan has left a little later because our timing couldn’t have been better. We walked out the doors of the airport right as her & Greg were coming over the walkway bridge from the garage. We hi’d & hugged & then they directed us to their car where we loaded up our luggage & off we went down the road to dinner.

Morgan & Greg cautiously recommended a Thai restaurant not far from the airport. The caution was there because we’d just spend twelve days in Southeast Asia & they thought that we might be tired of what could potentially be a similar flavor profile. The thing that they didn’t know is that we could never get tired of that flavor profile.

We ended up at Bai Tong Thai. Evan went with his standby of Panang Curry, I did mine, Pad See Ew. I know Morgan got Green Curry but I’m blanking on Greg’s order. Sorry Greg. The Thai spot was amazing, they said it was one of their favorites & apparently it had recently remodeled. We closed down the restaurant chatting away about all sorts of things; our trip, their upcoming trips, the state of the country, the state of theirs & our jobs, life & mutual friends, all the fun things.

Evan, Morgan, Greg, & I.

After dinner they drove us back to the airport. We hugged, said goodbye, & took a selfie right there in front of ticketing. Morgan & Greg are good people & Morgan will always be one of those friends that no matter how much time passes between seeing one another, it seems like no time has passed at all.

We checked in for our Alaska Airlines red eye from Seattle to Nashville, made it through security onto the tram that took us to our terminal then got prepared for another four hours in the air. We arrived home at 5:30 AM the next day.

ParkRoyal Collection Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Day Twelve


Cooling Of At The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Part Two & Blog Series

Travel Blog: Singapore- Part One: Dinners With Friends In Cities Where Some* Of Us Live

Welcome Back!

I kind of teased the existence of this part of my Malaysia travel series at the very end of the blog last week. It was a very, not so subtle, bit of foreshadowing where I basically was pretty blatantly forthcoming with this blog being the follow up to where we left off. What I wasn’t prepared for was just how much I had to say on the subject, so like Malaysia, this will also be a two parter. So, this will act as the follow up to part one & part two of the Malaysia portion of this trip, but will be their own part one & twos. That make sense? You can go back & read about the Malaysia segment of this trip in the links that I post below if you’d like! I won’t be titling this segment “part three” simply because it’s not. It doesn’t depend on previous context other than knowing where we were prior & how we ended up in Singapore following our time in Malaysia. For all intents & purposes, it is a stand alone as it has nothing to do with diving, navigating Malaysia, or the vast majority of the people listed therein (Evan naturally still exists & we have a few cameo mentions here & there). The only direct tie we’re going to have is the dating. I’m going to continue where I left off in part two of the Malaysia series finishing out the day I left off on & using the continued dates thereafter. We’ll say it’s like a stand alone sequel, both to the Malaysia portion of the trip, as well as my previous trip to Singapore, which I will also link below! Any questions about that? Well, it wouldn’t really matter if you did because this is a blog, now a forum so, let’s get this show on the road once more!


SINGAPORE

Day Nine Continued…


Our flight from Kuala Lumpur was a quick one, maybe an hour total. We landed in Singapore at Changi Airport right around 8:30 in the evening. I’m glad someone was looking out for me in the booking of our Scoot flight in, because we ended up picking to sit on the left side of the aircraft, which got us the amazing view of the harbor with all of the ships docked on the way in.

We were with our luggage & through customs fairly quickly with little to no fuss & were immediately spit out in Terminal 1, right in front of The Jewel.

The Jewel At Night. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

In all of the pictures, if you search the “Singapore Airport” or “Changi Airport,” the first thing to come up is the Jewel. The Jewel is effectively a mall, but to say it’s just that would be to do it a massive disservice. You see The Jewel IS a mall, but it also holds a massive botanical garden complete with sky bridges, 360 viewing, & a massive waterfall that rains from the center of the glass dome encapsulating the gardens, five stories down, into a basin. It’s breathtaking, honestly, & it was one of the main ‘touristy’ things that Evan wanted to see while we were in Singapore. It got marked off the list as soon as we walked out the doors from baggage claim.

At the time that we were there, The Jewel was doing a partnership with Disney to celebrate the introduction of the Disney Cruise that now leaves from Singapore. This meant that many of the topiaries, the floral arrangements, the what have you, were modeled after Disney Characters. Even the music that played in the botanical gardens, overlooking the falls, were popular Disney, or Disney owned, themes or melodies. As we walked up to the first floor observation platform for the waterfall music from Avatar was playing. By the time we left it was The Avengers theme.

For a Saturday night The Jewel wasn’t overly crowded. It was busy, but it wasn’t a mad house, which was refreshing. We left it behind & descended the escalator down a level or two to the ride share pick up.

Several years back Grab had bought out Uber’s license for the country of Singapore. The app & the interface for Grab is almost identical to that of Uber or Uber Eats & it’s just as easy & friendly to navigate. We Grab’d a ride & off we went from the airport to our hotel.

I’d like to stop here & hype up our hotel. When we were booking this trip I stumbled upon a major deal for the hotel we ended up staying at. Evan was a little on the fence about it, but I ended up insisting & booked us a three night stay at the ParkRoyal Pickering. He later would inform me that I was exuberantly & expertly correct in my selection for us.

ParkRoyal Pickering

The ParkRoyal Pickering is a staple of Singapore. It is a Michelin Guide recognized hotel, receiving what is known as a Michelin Key which is the hotel version of a Michelin Star. There are seven total Michelin Key’d hotels in Singapore. The hotel itself features an incredible biophilic design that features over 15,000 square meters of sky gardens, waterfalls, & planter terraces. It also has a rooftop farm where many of the ingredients for the restaurants housed within are farmed. It boasts eco-friendly amenities & designs throughout & actively practices sustainability & incorporates a number of facets to reduce the building’s carbon foot print. In addition to all of these statistics, the hotel & its rooms are simply stunning.

Under The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

When you disembark your ride at the entrance of the hotel you are greeted by concrete, stone, soft water features, & an army of orchids. In addition to the very personable staff of course. When you enter through the main doors the orchids continue endlessly & the reception desk sits off to the right in what looks like a limestone cave made entirely of wood. The tile floors give way to dark wood floors which eventually melt into soft green carpet with clustered tuffs of ‘moss’ sewn in. To the left as you walk towards the elevators & the main level restaurant are a number of seating areas made of high wicker chairs & low, lava rock-esque tables. The right side of the walk is dotted with paper lanterns that sit perched above the lava rock bed water feature that runs the length of the hall. It is truly an immersive marvel & I haven’t even begun to talk about the scent.

Orchids In The Lobby. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

To say the scent of the ParkRoyal Pickering is intoxicating would be an understatement. I want to bathe in it. I loved it so much that, not only did I request to buy a candle, a sample, something, of the scent at the end of our stay, I kept my suitcase in the bedroom at home for an additional week just because it was permeating the smell into our bedroom at home. It’s delightful. The woman at reception gave me a site to look up for a candle of the scent, but it unfortunately doesn’t seem like they make it anymore or carry it. However, the notes are Green Vetiver, Rosebud, Lily of the Valley, Saffron, Rosebush Leaf, Lavender Blossom, & White Cedarwood. It’s warm & green & vivacious but also incredibly calming & soft. The florals, while being one of the main notes across the board, aren’t overbearing, nor do they lean overly feminine or masculine. It articulates the duality of the hotel in a perfect way, this urban garden made of concrete & wood & stone & an overabundance of greenery. I desperately need a way to have it present in my home.

We checked in fairly quickly & were given our keys to our room on the eighth floor. One thing that I didn’t realize about the hotel is that after the fifth floor, where the amenities reside, the hotel is made up of three interconnected towers that are connected by walkways to get to your room. I am desperately afraid of heights.

We got up to the eighth floor, too a right, & went out the glass doors onto the walkway & I immediately froze. The walkway is only about three feet wide & the railing is made of concrete poles stuck in the cement with no top railing between them. The walkway also isn’t flush against the building, it features a couple of rooms along the way, but also large gaps where there are climbing plants that go from floor five all the way up. Additionally these walkways are on the outside of the building, so off to the side, if you look down, it’s just straight down to the street. Every time I crossed it, the multiple times a day, I had to hug the plant side & stare straight ahead.

We got to our room, again, a vibe & then some. It featured large glass windows with a series of shading & privacy options, a very Japandi style aesthetic of almost entirely wood surfaces, & a massive bed.

Our Room

When I say a massive bed, I mean a massive bed. This thing was listed as a king but was definitely two fulls, if not two queens, pushed together. I could lay on it, as a 6’4” individual, & not reach the other side. It was wild. Literally with the two of us laying in it we could’ve fit probably two more people between us comfortably & still had room.

Seeing as it was getting fairly late in the evening & we’d had a long day of travel, we freshened up & went in search of food.

We asked the receptionist who had checked us in for any late night food recommendations, at this point it was around 9:30-ish. She pointed us to the Hawker stalls at Lau Pa Sat just down the street. Which I thought was an excellent idea & it was only about a ten minute walk from us.

If you aren’t familiar with the term, a hawker stall is a small trade stall typically specializing in a small handful of relatively inexpensive items. They are notorious all over Asia, Singapore boasts around 285 of them that are Michelin recognized. They are typically open facing with a counter you walk up to & place your order at with a quant kitchen sat behind them. They are typically in groups or centers, which is exactly what Lau Pa Sat is.

Lau Pa Sat Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Lau Pa Sat (Old Market in Mandarin) is one of Singapore’s oldest food markets. It recently celebrated its 130th anniversary. It contains around 80 hawker stalls under its roof & the surrounding streets, & sits right in the middle of the Downtown Core surrounded by mountainous buildings. It’s sitting on a plot of land that is worth hundreds of millions if not billions of dollars & I applaud Singapore for preserving it & keeping it a priority & a cultural center!

Having been to Singapore in the past, I was no stranger to the hawker markets, though it was new for Evan. It was something that I knew I wanted to include in our itinerary at some point, the opportunity had just presented itself earlier than we’d expected. We wandered around the fairly busy market, it was a Saturday night after all, taking in the smells & the options before settling in on traditional Satay.

Satay At Lau Pa Sat

Satay is super easy; grilled meat on sticks with a dipping sauce & some rice cake. We opted for a shop called Stall 7 & 8, which came highly recommended for basic satay & had clearly done well enough for themselves that they took up two stall spots on the road outside of Lau Pa Sat. We walked up & ordered a number of beef & chicken skewers as well as a couple of prawn skewers. They gave us a pager & we went over a Sugarcane Juice vendor for drinks. Evan got the calamansi one & I got the traditional.

Our pager went off shortly thereafter & we sat at one of the communal tables, working through our skewers until the point where we couldn’t take it anymore & threw in the towel.

Before heading back to the room for a shower & bed, we popped into the 7-Eleven right next door to pick up an energy drink for the morning & a protein bar, as well as a small assortment of local candies & a coke zero for the night.

Taxi Out Front Of The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Day Nine


Day Ten

Barry’s Raffles Place. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

The reason for the protein bar & the energy drink purchase the prior evening was because Evan & I had booked a spot at Barry’s Raffles Place at 8:30 AM. We typically are Barry’s frequenters here in Nashville, but it’s always nice to find one when you travel as well. It helps to have an idea of what you’re getting into & allows you to get a 50 minute, hard workout in, & go about your day.

We got up around 7/7:30 for the class & made our way back towards Lau Pa Sat to the building that hosts Barry’s. It was at this point where I noticed a little bit of fogginess in my left eye. It was just in the lower right corner & honestly, just looked like a bit of grime on my contact lens. I attempted to clean it off at Barry’s to no avail. And yes, this strange detail will have relevance going forward.

The class was a difficult one, with several challenges imbedded throughout. Having not done a formal workout (scuba burns a lot of calories) in over ten days at this point, it proved even more difficult, but we made it through with sweaty, depleted colors.

Lau Pa Sat From Barry’s. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

After the workout class I grabbed a “Barry’s Raffles” t-shirt to join my collection of Barry’s shirts from around the world & we headed back downstairs & across the street to Lau Pa Sat in search of a bit more morning sustenance. We both were in desperate need of coffee. We had early lunch plans so we were trying to save our appetite for that, but we needed that caffeine carryover in the interim.

At the center of Lau Pa Sat there is a 24 hour drink stand. It serves all kinds of beverages of the soft variety & I think maybe also beers. It was one of the only things open at what would have been about 9:45 in the morning & they had drawn in a little bit of a crowd. Many people who had ordered & were eating had plates with Kaya Toast & Dippy Eggs in addition to the glorious elixir of life. No, not whiskey, Kopi.

Kopi is the Singaporean term for a robusta brewed coffee with condensed milk & sugar. It is very similar in style to Vietnamese Coffee. It is heavenly as most things with condensed milk & sugar are known to be. I ordered one for myself but Evan resigned himself to waiting til we got back to the hotel to pop a Nespresso pod in the in-room Nespresso machine…that was until he tried mine at which point he got back in line to get his own.

Back at our hotel we started getting ready for our early afternoon lunch, showering the workout & morning humidity away, laying out outfit, & ditching my contact lenses for glasses after the cloudiness had begun to spread from just the corner of my eye to the entirety of it.

It is now time for a “my personal medical history” break. In the past I have had a small number of optical migraines. Essentially what happens here is that there’s some sort of pressure put on the optic nerve & your brain perceives the information through a hazy lens. It can be brought on by a number of things & as of yet, we have yet to find what my trigger for them is. That’s the theory we were going with at the time at least & yes, I have seen a number of doctors about it.

I know I just did an ADHD indulgent aside, but I’m going to require another one here. This one is not about my ocular health, but instead about the lovely duo we were about to go to lunch with.

I met Linus & Karen Chua on my first Singapore Airlines flight from LA to Singapore back in 2022. At the time the Singaporean couple was based out of Los Angeles & were commuting back to Singapore to visit family & friends. They were kind enough to see me, a solo traveler on his first expedition to the Asian continent, & strike up conversation with me. They also essentially ended up giving me about 50% of my itinerary for the last time I was in Singapore. They’re the loveliest of people & over the years we’ve kept in touch, even following their move back to Singapore.

I had messaged the two of them on Instagram prior to our departure from the states, asking if they wanted to do lunch or something while we were in town, not knowing if the phone numbers that I had for them were still theirs or not. I never heard from them. That was until a day or two prior to our flight to Singapore when Linus replied & we arranged to meet up for lunch. Come to find out the Chuas, who are devout Catholics, had given up social media for Lent & Linus had randomly received a pull to check his notifications for the socials that he’d moved to the last page of apps on his phone & found my message.

They were gracious enough to come by the hotel & pick us up & right at 11:30, they pulled out, sprung out the car, & greeted the two of us with enormous hugs even despite having never met Evan. They even brought us two jars of Kaya from Ya Kun! They are truly lovely people.

They had picked out a spot for lunch for the for of us called “Violet Oon” by famed local chef Violet Oon. We went to their Dempsey Hill location, which was in an old army barracks that had been converted into a series of shops & restaurants, as well as a park. The barracks themselves had been where Linus’s family had dropped him off to begin his Compulsory Military Service.

Chicken Satay At Violet Oon

They had picked out Violet Oon because it was a restaurant that served Peranakan Cuisine. A food steeped heavily in Singaporean culture, Peranakan blends elements of Chinese cooking with Malaysian & Indian to create something uniquely Singaporean that reflects the culture, history, & the Peranakan people themselves. Honestly, to most people I pitch the idea to they seem strangely skeptical, that is until you frame is as the very best of Indian, Southeast Asian/Malaysian, & Chinese foods meshed into one dish. Then they’re always on board.

At Violet Oon we ate family style. We had the Chuas order with a few suggestions here & there from the waitress. They were lovingly very careful with Evan’s limited spice tolerance which was very thoughtful of them to do.

For lunch we had a large assortment of foods over just as large an assortment of courses. We started with their version of chicken satay, Kuay Pie Tee, & Ngoh Hiang. Our next course was Assam Nanas Barramundi, Dry Laksa, Beef Rendang, & Babi Pongteh which is actually one of the first dishes that Linus said Karen made for him when they started dating. For dessert we had Calamansi Sorbet, Roti Jala with Banana Pengat, Kueh Beng Kah, & Gula Melaka Tea Cake with Gula Melaka Ice Cream. Of all of these dishes my favorites were the Kuay Pie Tee, the Babi Pongteh, & the Roti Jala, if I’m just picking one from each course.

We ended up sitting at lunch well into the afternoon, to the point where the restaurant was actually closing at which time we were given an amazingly in-depth driving tour of the city by our hosts!

CapitaSpring Building, Central Business District. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We didn’t ask them to do that for us, but they generously offered & we weren’t about to turn down a chance to see the city through the stories & eyes of those who grew up there & lived there. Especially when they’re such warm & welcoming individuals. They took us around the city showing us everything from the Botanic Gardens, to the Raffles Hotel, finally ending at the Marina Barrage. At the Marina Barrage we got out & walked the dam. They informed us of the history, as well as Singapore’s ongoing problem with water retention. The barrage was installed to cut the city’s water loss exponentially. They then took us back to our hotel where we hugged them & thanked them profusely for such an outstanding afternoon & the exemplary company.

By the time that we got back to the ParkRoyal it was about 2:30 or 3 PM. We opted for a nap after our early morning & when we awoke we decided that it was time to go downstairs & check out the pool.

Cabanas At The ParkRoyal Pickering Pool. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

The pool at the ParkRoyal Pickering is situated on the fifth floor of the building. It occupies the right side of the level (if you’re on the street looking at the building) & has a mirrored fountain on the other side that, while we were there, was being used for wedding photos for a reception happening in the building. There is also a greenway walk around the entirety of the level which takes you through some of the main gardens of the facility. Additionally, the fitness center & spa both overlook the infinity edged pool. All along the pool, recessed from the walkway, or outright jutting into the water, there are several birdcage-esque cabanas, each painted a different pop of color amongst the otherwise earth tones & the greens of the facilities.

Pool At ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

When you exit the elevator you are greeted by a member of the hotel staff who hands you a towel & offers you a glass of the daily fruit infused water or their hot lemon tea. We parked our towels, phones, room keys, shirts, shoes, what have you on a lounge chair near the fitness center & made our way into the water.

The pool is almost entirely shaded, at least it was when we were there, but it honestly kind of matches the vibe. However, that, mixed with the wind, made the water in the pool pretty chilly. We hung out there against the ledge that overlooks Hong Lim Park, watching the people below & the crows swoop in to take a drink from the water return below the end of the infinity pool. When we had our fill of the cool water, we toweled off, & made our way back upstairs to get ready for dinner.

At this point my left eye had degraded further. My vision, which was only slightly blurry at lunch, was now almost entirely clouded. Not only that, but the physical lens of my eye had clouded over, something that had never happened in the past when it came to my optical migraines... Or at least it was something that I had never noticed happening before. I opted to try some medicated eye drops that I had & doubled down on the migraine medication that I carry with me.

The eye drops were not so fun. They burned horribly & made my eye completely red. I then switched to the dry eye drops I use that were recommended to me by my optometrist. Of course, google always points you to the worst possible diagnosis & was telling me that I had Acute Angle-Closure Glaucoma, which is where the iris gets stuck trying to contract/retract & causes the eye to be unable to drain fluid. It can lead to blindness if not treated very quickly. We ruled this out however when I found no “severe pain” as is listed all over, nor did I have shadowing, or half the other symptoms. Apparently ocular migraines can also have physical clouding of the lens, the thing that concerned me was the fact that I had developed halos in my vision around lights, which definitely leans more into the glaucoma lane. We decided that we were going to go ahead with our evening plans & in the event that things got any worse in any way, we’d go to the emergency room.

Planter Terraces At The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I always debate telling stories like that in my travel blogs. I always think to myself “well, what if ParkRoyal sees this & that’s what deters them from wanted to do anything with you in the future?” or “what if one of the other places listed & tagged here don’t share this because of that?” & I guess my answer to that is simple. While I do these blogs & tag & mention all of the parties involved, none of this is paid for or incentivized by any of them. I write these travel blogs for the same reason that I write any of my other blogs or why I write songs; to tell stories. That’s a part of the story of this trip. It frames why certain decisions get made, why certain things get opted out of, & informs those of you who come here simply looking to read the story I have to tell of the details of this adventure. Not every part of every adventure is glamorous or shiny or positive & that’s life. Without all of that, this would feel inauthentic to me, too polished, & that’s not why I do this. The moment I do something like that, where it’s praise to the high heavens & lacks the nitty gritty, it will because it is in partnership with someone involved in the story, at which point I will let you all know that was the case & that they have asked me to refrain from such details. Anyway. Continuing on.

Dinner was at a little restaurant called Odette. This year Odette was once again labeled the top restaurant in Singapore by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It currently sits ranked 19th in all of Asia & last year was #25 on the list of the best restaurants in the world (this year’s list isn’t out yet). It currently has three Michelin stars & offers French Contemporary food framed around Chef Julien Royer’s tenure in Singapore.

We initially weren’t going to go, full transparency, it’s pricey, but were talked into it by Erica while in Malaysia. Erica had previously dined at Odette her last time through Singapore & claimed it as one of the top ten meals of her life. She gave it glowing review upon glowing review & when we initially looked to book it, following this conversation, we found it booked up. That was until one night when we checked again & found that they had opened up reservations for that Sunday evening. We then justified it because our trip had been payed for already months in advance, so other than our resort incidentals & our food in Singapore, the trip had already been budgeted out & executed.

Odette Sign Through Fabric. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Odette was only around a fifteen minute walk from our hotel. It was around mid-dinner time when we began to walk there so there were quite a few people out, each settling into their respective restaurants. The sun was also starting to set, though we’d clearly dressed more for the fact that we were going to be inside & the night we would greet upon exiting the restaurant. It was a warm walk.

Odette is one of three restaurants housed in the National Gallery Singapore, which is an art museum that used to be the former Supreme Court & City Hall buildings until the two buildings were merged & converted into the art gallery. When I went in search of a restroom to reapply eye drops towards the beginning of the dinner, I was instructed through the gallery & told to turn right at the jail cells. They weren’t joking, there are literally jail cells still in the build that now serve as a historical exhibit.

We were sat fairly close to the kitchen, greeted by Sarah, who would be the one primarily taking care of us over the evening & handed our menus. Sarah went over the pairing & wine options with us before leaving us with our first couple of bites.

Grignotages. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

To say this was a long dinner with a lot of courses would be an understatement. I have, in my record here, three courses that appear before the menu we were given at the end of the night even kicks in. They are referred to as Grignotages or roughly translated to “nibbling.” So for them, I will have to be a little vague as this was almost a month ago & I do not recall entirely what they were specifically. I can tell you what I do remember, as well as my feelings around them still!

Mushroom Soup & Tart. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Bread.

The first set (yes set) of items were little bites. Served in a group of three we had a Tuna Belly, Maki-esque bite, a “taco” made from sashimi, & fresh herbs with a radish as the “shell,” & a Yeast Doughnut stuffed with soft cheese & topped with some form of cured pork. Of the three of them I definitely favored the donut, but that’s only in the slightest bit over the others. I could have made a meal of any or all three.

The next snack was an ode to the mushroom. It consisted of two parts; a Mushroom Tart & and a creamy Mushroom Soup. Served in a mushroom shaped cup with a wooden cap lid, the mushroom soup was warm & evolved as you went down the layer & the tart was earthy & flakey. Both felt very comforting.

The final snack course was bread, but not just any bread, different varietals of sourdough that used an heritage rye from Les Moulins d’Antoine cultivated & milled by 15 local farmers. We had a slice of the loaf, small individual loaves, & a black truffle, laminated roll of some kind. They came with a cultivated butter & our first wine pairing, a sparkling Greek Cuvee Des Vignerons by Vassaltis called ‘Gramina’ from 2022.

Hokkaido Botan Ebi. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

In addition to bread & cuvee we also got our first course, the Hokkaido Botan Ebi. Bafun Uni (Sea Urchin) with Brown Butter ‘Ponzu’ & Maison ‘Kaviari’ Caviar. The Uni was served atop a buttery bit of bread itself. Small but packed a punch. The rest of the course came presented in a bowl. The ‘ponzu’ acting a broth for the Botan Ebi (shrimp), with the caviar nestled in the middle. The whole course was buttery on buttery on top of buttery in all of the right ways. What?! Butter?! In French food?! Shocking!!! Sarah would make a similar joke later in the meal & I have genuinely no complaints over the amount of butter use in this tasting menu.

Crab Contrast. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Crab Contrast. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Next up was a dish they call “Crab ‘Contrast.’” It was also a monster of a course in terms of its respective size. The Crab ‘Contrast’ consists of several items. A bit of Crab Leg swimming in a deep green Béarnaise, chilled Crab Meat in a Rémoulade served under a dollop of Horseradish Ice Cream, & a bun stuffed with their take on Singaporean Chili Crab. My clear winner here was the one with the savory ice cream which Sarah said took them a while to perfect. She said a lot of guests wouldn’t finish the course initially because they found the ice cream had far too much horseradish in it. It has since been adjusted several times. This course was paired with ‘Fermier’ Albariño from Niigata, Japan from 2024.

Langoustine Comme Un Dumpling. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

The following course was my favorite of the night. It had the option to add black truffle to it, but Evan & I opted out of it. I can see how it would make the dish pop off even more than it already did though. Langoustine “Comme Un Dumpling’ (like a dumpling). Langoustine (obviously), Leek Fondue (to die for), Vin Jaune (a dry French white wine), & Katsoubushi (a dashi made of skipjack & seaweed). Oh my lord. This dish was everything. Truly everything. It was herbal & buttery & packed to the gills with umami. It was so good that we had the staff save the pitcher of sauce on the table for us so that we could dip bread into it. This is where that black truffle roll really came in handy. The menu could’ve just been this dish over & over & over again & I’d have left overjoyed. It was paired with Marques De Murrieta ‘Capellania’ from 2018.

Jeju Abalone & Foie Gras Duo

To follow this high, however, we have what is probably, unfortunately, one of my least favorite courses of the night. I think my reasons for disliking this dish lay entirely in the ‘fattiness’ of it. It was a Jeju Abalone & Foie Gras Duo.

The dish is served like a soup. A bowl is brought out with the abalone & foie gras cut up in equal parts & intermixed then a Pork Broth with Shiitake & Yuzu is poured over top. It was just a lot of the same textures happening within the soup & the broth was a little too ‘wintery’ for my taste & what otherwise felt like a fairly spring forward menu. It was paired with the 2021 vintage of the Yangarra Estate in McLaren Vale, Australia’s ‘Roux Beaute.’

Shimane Cod.

Our last course before the main course was fish. Shimane Cod to be exact. This dish came with a Sauce Champagne, grilled Yari Ika (spear squid), & Tarragon Oil & sprigs. I really loved this dish. Buttery, of course, but the fish was so perfectly cooked & offered such an amazing contrast to the texture of the squid with the lulling herbaciousness of the tarragon. Top marks. Honestly, this dish might have been top three of the night for me in retrospect! It came paired with Antoine Chevalier Coteaux Champeniois from 2023.

The main course was first presented to us from the pan in which it was cooked. Very showy with smoke & all! Roasted on a bed of Cambodian Kampot Peppers accompanied by an assortment of flowers, we had Pigeon from Brittany. It was then returned to the kitchen to be dressed & plated.

Kampot Pepper Crusted Pigeon.

Kampot Pepper Crusted Pigeon Plated

I can feel it. I can feel the amount of people reading this who were just put off by the notion of eating pigeon. How do I know? Well, every time I mention this story/menu to people I get that reaction. It seems to me a lot of the, mostly American, audience is put off by that & I honestly get why. We don’t view pigeon like we do dove (which people active hunt), even though they are from the same family. In the US, pigeons are generally considered dirty street pests that most people can’t fathom consuming. However, some of you may have already eaten pigeon without your knowing. It occasionally appears on a menu as “Squab.” These pigeons are specifically raised for their meat & are fed a particular diet. They aren’t just flying about a city picking through the ruffage.

The pigeon was plated & served with a glass of Clusel Roch 2021 ‘Les Grandes Places’ from Côte-Rôtie. A red to go with the intense pepperiness of the bird & the medium-rare preparation they had suggested for it. It came with the butterflied breast & a leg which had a note wrapped around it, harkening back to the days of the carrier pigeon. The liver had been turned into a mousse & injected into a Moral Mushroom which was nestled next to a bed of shelled Sugar Snap Peas. The whole dish was then laid with the jus from the bird & a Black Garlic paste.

I talk of the pigeon a lot, it was the main course after all. That being said, I don’t think it was my favorite. In all honesty, I actually think it sits pretty far down the list of my ranking for the overall meal. It wasn’t bad by any stretch of the imagination, in fact it was quite good. It just didn’t blow me out of the water like some of the other dishes on this menu.

Palette Cleanser.Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Before dessert we were offered a cheese course. Both getting fairly full & working on plans that followed dinner, we graciously passed.

Before we moved on we were given a palette cleanser. A very vivacious & green sorbet of some kind served with citrus & granita. I wish I could recall what type of any of it it was, but unfortunately, all I have is a picture to offer. I remember it being exceedingly bright &, as aforementioned, green. Maybe it had something to do with apple if my mind serves me…

Hazelnut-t-ella.

Our main dessert course was right up my alley. I noticed a bit of a trend in Singapore while we were there of the Hazelnut. While Dubai Chocolate is currently ransacking The US, hazelnut was having its moment in the sun in Singapore. I actually spent the first four years of my life growing up on a hazelnut farm in Oregon, so they have a very special place in my heart & of course my palette. I love them.

Dessert was a dish they call Hazelnu-t-ella. It was a pastry shell with Piedmont Hazelnut Praliné & Jivara Chocolate topped with Chestnut Ice Cream & little droppers of pure hazelnut oil. I was in heaven. What a perfect dessert. Honestly, I’m such a sucker for a really good hazelnut dessert & this delivered over & over again!

Douceurs. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Last we closed out the night with just a few more little bites. Some sort of meringue bites, a plating of different fruits; Melon, Apple, & Strawberry, & two final little baked bites.

I think all in all we were at dinner for around 3-4 hours. It was definitely in the top 10 meals I have had in my lifetime & I think the pacing we went at prevented the common problem that wine pairings often result in, which is drunkenness. On our way out the door Sarah gave us gift boxes with a jam inside as a souvenir, in addition to our menus from the evening.

Odette Sign.

At this point my eye had almost entirely cleared up! This fortunately mostly ruled out glaucoma which tends to get worse at night from the pupil trying to open up as wide as possible to let light in. There was still a slight blurriness, but the eye drops I’d been dipping off to the restroom to apply over the course of the meal certainly seemed to help.

While we were at dinner Evan had been in contact with a coworker of his, Io. They both work for Duolingo, on the Duolingo English Test side, & had never physically met. Most of the Duo English Test team is scattered all over the world & Io, & her partner, Piri, who also works for Duo, just happened to be in Singapore at the same time as us.

Marina Bay Sans At Night. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Typically splitting time between Dubai & Greece, they had flown Dubai after the war broke out in Iran. The only flight they could get out was to Vietnam. Once they got there they found that they couldn’t get many flights back to the Mediterranean, so they came down to Singapore to see if they’d have better luck at a larger international airport. He’d been coordinating with them all day & we were finally able to set a time & met them for drinks!

The last time I was in Singapore I spent a long afternoon in the MO Bar. Located inside the Mandarin Oriental hotel, the MO Bar, at the time I was there last, was doing a series of cocktails that celebrated a number of countries on the Asian continent. This time the drinks were themed around the many different prominent art forms of Singapore & I had convinced the group to make it the destination for our meet up & collective nightcap.

The last time I was at the Mandarin Oriental it was an entirely different vibe. Dark, brooding, earth toned, natural elements. This time it had undergone a full make over. The walls were bright, the art colorful & full of whimsy. An entirely different feel from before.

We met the Duo duo down out in front of the lobby, hugged & greeted, & we made our way up to the bar together.

They didn’t have a table for us, unfortunately, but they were able to put us at one of the standing room high tops. They brought around a small snack & the menu. We each took turns looking through it & getting recommendations from the bar manager who was serving us before we made our decisions.

MO Bar Menu

I ended up ordering the Pine-dustry, a cocktail of Cold Distilled Pineapple, Silver Patrón, White Wine Reduction, & Coconut garnished with a little Pineapple Tart. It was design to commemorate the Singapore bar industry, which is one of the top rated in the world.  Evan had the Bukit Kemas; Ryukyu Baijiu, Lotus Lillet Blanc, & Roasted Corn. It was in celebration of local jewelry house Forbidden Hill. Piri got the Forest Fire. A Monkey Shoulder Whiskey, Los Siete Misterios Mezcal, Pala & Cengkeh Amaro, & Lapsang drink inspired by the National Gallery Singapore, where we just were, specifically Raden Saleh’s painting Boschbrand. Finally, Io got The Jukuleles, named after the four man Singaporean band. It was Código Mezcal, Yuzu Marmalade, Tulasi, & Angostura. The drinks were excellent as always & the conversation was joyful & felt like drinks with people we’d known for ages.

We were at the bar for a good hour/hour & a half. At one point we were brought a round of shots by the staff, which we hesitantly, yet gratefully accepted. We all found ourselves getting more & more tired & I, unfortunately, found my eye burning more & more. So we called it, rode back down the elevator to the lobby, called our separate cabs, bid each other luck & well wishes, & went back off to end the night in our respective hotels.

Terraces. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Day Ten


Plumeria. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Part One