Traveller

Travel Blog: Singapore- Part Two: It's Goin' Down In Chinatown

Welcome back! First things first, if this is your first time joining us, you are coming in on part two (technically four if we are counting Malaysia) of this blog series! If you don’t feel like diving head first into this whole ordeal then I would advise you to go back &, at the very least, read part one of the Singapore portion of this adventure before we continue on. Don’t worry, I’m not going to make you go searching for it, I’ll have a nice set of links waiting just below this paragraph for you to go in & visit! If you’ve already read part one, welcome back, thank you for returning to finish out this blog series with me! I appreciate your patronage! I hope we’re ready to bring this on home together! Alright, enough of my blathering, let’s get going shall we?


PART TWO:

Day Eleven

Our initial plan was to wake up at a relatively decent hour & potentially go back to Barry’s Raffles Place. Between the slight hangover & the struggle I had sleeping with my eye feeling like it was being tased out of its socket, we slept in. Feeling like I shouldn’t continue flying by the seat of my pants where my ocular health is concerned, I woke up & immediately went to digging about the internet for my medical options as someone visiting the country.

My vision was perfectly clear at this point. No fogging, no halos, none of it. What was hanging around from the day prior was the eye burn & a new found extreme sensitivity to light. I still felt that if some of the symptoms were hanging around that I probably should go about some form of medical treatment just in case.

What I found basically said that unless you have specific travel insurances, you have to pay out of pocket for medical treatment in Singapore. Even with that being the case, it was reassuring to see that I wouldn’t be going into debt over a specialist or urgent care visit like one does potentially anytime you need anything in the states. I reached out to a local hospital & their ophthalmology department to see what their options for me were. They were able to book me a same day appointment for midafternoon & I was told that the visit, medication, & imaging would be around $300 Singaporean or $235-ish in USD…for a specialist…at a hospital…with imaging & everything…I was warned that if it turned out to be something & further tests were required it would max out at around $1,000 SGD or $785 USD. I booked the appointment & began to get ready for the day.

I’d texted my Singaporean friends, Linus & Karen, pretty late in the evening prior asking their recommendations as someone on a tourist visa looking for medical care. They’d sent me a recommendation for a walk-in urgent care just down the street from us, which they have trusted for years to house their primary doctor. They said it would also be less than $100 SGD/78USD for the visit in total. Evan & I got to talking & we both agreed that it might be wise to swing by a walk-in for preliminary testing & analysis & if they didn’t find anything wrong to go ahead & just wait til we got back stateside to have an appointment with the doctor in Nashville who has treated me in the past.

Yueh Hai Ching Temple. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

It was just before noon when we left the ParkRoyal Pickering to start the day. The directions that Linus had given me to the clinic were that it was right next to the Yueh Hai Ching Temple on the way towards Lau Pa Sat. Evan brought his camera with him, as the day prior, he’d wished he’d had it on our walk back from Barry’s so he could take some photos of the temple. Now he had his chance.

I left him to take some photos while I walked next door to The Medical Clinic (yes, that’s the actual name) to get checked in. It was just short of lunch time so the clinic was a little crowded, but they assured me that it would probably only be around 30 minutes to be seen. I started filling out all the online documentation right around the time that Evan rejoined me.

I genuinely think it might have only been about 20 minutes before I was seen. The receptionist called my name, then directing me to a door that housed a small, personal doctor’s office on the other side. He introduced himself, I sat down & explained my symptoms, he did a series of tests on my eye, & gave me his diagnosis.

He basically reinforced the Ocular Migraine theory. They treat glaucoma & glaucoma like symptoms very seriously in this part of the world as those with Asian decent are far more prone to having it, but he didn’t think it was that. At least not something in need of immediate medical attention. He thought that the stain & burn of my eyes was probably brought on from my eyes trying desperately to focus for the duration of a day & he told me that my affected eye, the left one, looked incredibly tired. He prescribed me an antibiotic eye drop to fight any potential infection that might have caused it or might result from my eye working over time, & told me to cancel with the ophthalmologist & wait to see a doctor til I got back home. The entire cost of my visit, medicine included, ended up being $43 USD…

Getting Directions. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Hunger was setting in (for one of us whose name starts with an ‘E’ it was hanger…) & the slight hangover/leftover headache from my eye was demanding caffeine & food. I went through my travel list to see what coffee shops were near by that I’d been recommended or found on my own & we landed on Common Man Stan.

Just about a 10 minute walk from The Medical Clinic (proper noun) was Common Man Stan, located on Stanley Street. Cute. Common Man Stan is a cafe that came highly recommended by the folks on the internet & the reviews on the page. It was voted one of the top coffee spots in Singapore from several different sources, so off we went!

As it was lunch time (remember I told you that above?), CMS was very busy. There was a line of people waiting to be sat, but, since we had plans to find the majority of our lunch elsewhere, we got our coffee & pastries to-go. Which there was no line for. We both ended up with iced Kaya Toast Lattes & went in on an Almond Croissant to share.

Chinatown. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We didn’t know that the pastries in the case were from Tiong Bahru Bakery, a pastry shop that had come up multiple times when I was looking through restaurants pre-trip. But when either of us tried it, we were amazed. I took a bite, Evan took a bite, I looked at him & said “…should we get a few more of these?” He immediately approved & we went in on another almond croissant & his favorite, a Pan Au Chocolate, for either later in the day or the next morning.

A similar thing happened with our coffee. We took a drink of the latte they’d made for us & we unanimously decided we needed to buy beans from them for our espresso machine back home. I’m actually sitting here drinking a hazelnut latte as I type that uses beans from Common Man Stan!

Now it was time for a proper lunch.

There are several dishes that come to mind when it comes to Singapore. We explored a lot of them in part one of this blog; satay, chili crab (kind of), Peranakan, laksa, kaya toast, but there’s one stand out that is missing here. That would be Hainanese Chicken Rice.

Hainanese Chicken Rice is a very simple dish. Often considered the national dish of Singapore, it simply features steamed or roasted chicken served over chicken broth rice & paired with a garlic-chili sauce. Sounds basic enough, but there is something simply exquisite about this dish when is done well, & there are a lot of places in Singapore that do it exceedingly well.

There are literal thousands of chicken rice shops in Singapore & everyone has their favorite. I went to one the last time I was in Singapore that I really enjoyed, but I didn’t want to limit myself to the places that I had already been this trip, even though I did enjoy a lot of the stops last time. We also were in a different part of town, so I pulled up Google & looked through several different blogs, articles, forums, posts, etc. while we were waiting for our coffee at Common Man Stan. The general consensus, & the one we were closest to was a stand down the road at Maxwell Food Centre called Ah-Tai Hainanese Chicken Rice.

Thian Hock Keng. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

Our path to lunch took us by Thian Hock Keng, a Tianfu temple to the sea goddess Mazu. The building was spectacular from the outside & there was some form of ceremony being held as we went by. Additionally we passed through Ann Siang Hill Park where Evan stopped to take pictures of some of the resident cats sleeping amongst the bamboo.

The centre was pretty crowded, almost every one of the hawker stalls had a line. Ah-Tai is one of the 290 Michelin recognized stalls so its line went down the corridor. We got in line before realizing that they were cash only. I left Evan there & went in search of an ATM, telling him to let people in front of him if he got up to the front & I still hadn’t returned with cash.

Sleepy Cats In Ann Siang Hill Park. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I found an ATM at the north entrance of the centre, except that I had taken out my debit card from my three card wallet the day or two prior in favor of two of my credit cards that doesn’t have international fees & my ID. I tried to pull out cash with either of them but neither have a pin, so I had to go back to Evan & swapped places with him.

Chicks In The Park.

Eventually cash was secured, a few people got to cut in front of each of us in line, & we ordered the combo plate which came with the chicken rice, chili-garlic sauce, bok choy, cucumber, & black sauce (a thicker, sweeter soy). We wondered around the crowded tables before finding an open shared spot to hunker down & eat our meal.

The chicken rice was out of this world. I’m always blown away by how cozy yet so simple it is. The chicken was perfectly juicy, the rice salty & savory, the bok choy still had some bite. It was excellent. I think our total for the two of our lunches was less than $10 USD as well, which is just wild.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

After lunch we decided to do a bit of wandering around. One of the things I’ve started doing when we visit different places is trying to visit a local fragrance house. Whether I end up with a bottle or samples is beside the point. I just like going in to see what the local scent stylings are, what’s being distilled & combined, what unique footprint a city or country has that gets infused in the scents being produced. Google maps lied to me though, so the one I was after that was near our dining spot had moved since the last update online. We decide instead to walk back towards our hotel & see if anything caught our eye along the way.

Chinatown Street Market. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

On our walk we ended up across the street from the Maxwell Food Centre & next to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum, which, as the name suggests, claims to house one of the teeth of The Buddha. The last time I was in Singapore the temple was closed for renovations, but today the doors were wide open & they were welcoming in guests. As we entered the temple they began an afternoon prayer ceremony. We stood & watched reverently before making our way around the outer wall of the temple, observing the many statues, & heading out the back.

From there we made our way into the China Town Market where we perused the many shops, took the occasional photo or step out of the afternoon heat, & got some fresh squeezed lemonade. Mine was passionfruit, Evan got regular.

Around this point the humidity & sun were starting to get to us, so we decided to go in search of some caffeine to take back to the hotel with us. I’d taken us back to the main road to head to one of the coffee shops I enjoyed the last time I was through, September Coffee, just to find them closed when we walked up. After a quick recalibration we ended up finding another coffee stop on my list that was in the direction that we were heading, Muro Coffee.

Smoked Mocha Affogato At Muro

Muro Coffee is a black & white, vintage leaning specialty coffee shop. It’s on a second floor walk up, with its own third floor loft space, & windows that overlook the street below. Their menu is a mix of standard & inventive coffee & tea beverages, in addition to some bites that looked pretty incredible as well! We propped up in the corner by the stairs, against one of the windows so we could sit there & people watch as we recaffeinated.

I ordered a Smoked Mocha Affogato & Evan got the Strawberry Matcha. Both drinks were outstanding, but I am always keen on a great affogato! We sat & sipped & enjoyed the air conditioning for a minute before we thanked the staff & continued back to our hotel.

Gardens At ParkRoyal Collective Pickering.

Back at the ParkRoyal the obvious ailment to the hot day was the chilly, chilly pool. We went back to the room, changed, & headed down promptly once we’d returned.

We first walked the garden loop that makes its was around the outer edge of the fifth floor. As it was spring, many of the flowers were in bloom & the entirety of the walk smelled decadent. After looping back around we set our things down on a lounge chair & dipped into the frigid water of the ParkRoyal’s pool once more.

Cooling Off At The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We hung out here for a little bit, Evan did a little photo shoot of me against the ledge of the pool (no clue yet if any of those turned out, guess if there’s one in here they did), then got out to get a closer look at the locker room facility, the gym, & the massage center.

Our plans for the evening were laid out. I still had interest in the fragrance brand we’d sought out earlier, but their only location close to us was at The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands. We needed to head that way anyway to make the 7:45 PM SuperTree show & then get over to our 9:15 PM reservation at Jigger & Pony.

We got dressed for our evening ahead before heading downstairs & across the street to the subway to catch the North-South Line to Marina Bay. Just a three stop trip, we were there in no time. The subway let out right under The Shoppes. We took the escalator up & found the interactive map of the facility to chart our course.

We had three main goals at The Shoppes. The first, naturally was the fragrance shop, we also were planning to hit Aesop for more sunblock as The US stores carry a different formula than the international locations, & I was entirely out of clean clothes for the trip home, so I wanted to pop into Lululemon for some things to wear on the long trip back. While examining the map we also found that they had a COS in the center. COS is H&M’s higher quality brand & there are only a few physical stores around the world.

We popped into COS first. I ended up getting a nice, plain light blue T-Shirt, & Evan found a fragrance of theirs that he liked that is only available in international markets. Then came Aesop.

The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands.

Right across the indoor river (yes, indoor river) from COS was Aesop. We were welcomed in, they gave us tea, & despite knowing & picking out exactly what we were after, we chatted a bit with the staff before checking out & receiving a vial of the tea to take home with us. Next up was Lululemon.

Just around the literal river bend we found Lulu. I ended up getting one of their freshly launched sweat shorts & a zip up hoodie. My travel plan was to pair the two of those with my freshly purchased COS shirt. While we were in Lulu the staff was very interested in Evan & I. They asked about our travels, how we met, what each of us did, which then ended up landing the group pulling up my music page. I got out of there before songs could be played. I don’t generally enjoy listening to myself…

I bet you’re wondering why, at this point, that I haven’t given you the name of the fragrance shop I was trying to hunt down, especially since I am typically fairly meticulous when it comes to tagging & naming locations throughout my blogs. Well, it’s because we never got to go. We did find the shop itself, after a whole bunch of trial & error within The Shoppes, but when we walked up to it…the shop was closed. Not closed down, just closed for the day, something that hadn’t been in the listing of the multiple places we looked. So that was a bust, unfortunately.

From The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands we took the massive escalator up into the Marina Bay Sands hotel itself.

The hotel is a monolith of modern Singapore. It overlooks Gardens By The Bay on one side, the Marina Bay/Singapore River on the other, then the Downtown Core on one end, & Raffles Place on the other. It is truly the most iconic building on the Singapore skyline & she knows it. I personally have never stayed in it as, from what I’ve seen from the vibe of the facility, it’s a little too clean cut & ‘beige’ for my taste. It’s also a pricy stay for most. But, in addition to acting as the focal point for the area, it also is one of the main gateways to the gardens beyond.

We ended the hotel on the ground floor then followed the prompts outside to an elevator that took us up to a suspended bridge that cuts back through the hotel & down into the gardens, across the Dragonfly Bridge & finally into the SuperTree Grove.

The first time I was in Singapore I actually just happened upon the SuperTree Grove & the show that happens therein. After a day of a lot of cocktails at MO Bar I was trying to make my way to Satay By The Bay for dinner & stumbled into the nightly show. It’s shockingly magical! I don’t say that lightly either. Evan definitely did not grasp the experience himself until he’d witnessed it in person.

SuperTree Eclipse. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

On paper it’s a pretty mundane pitch. The SuperTrees are these giant metal structures that have all sorts of climbing plants, bromeliads  & orchids all up the sides. They’re equipped with a series of lights & effects & some of the larger ‘trees’ have a sky bridge that connects them that you can pay to go up on. The main cluster has 4 large SuperTrees with 8 additional smaller trees around them. All in all the gardens have a total of 18 SuperTrees, but the light show happens at the main SuperTree Grove.

People gather around the grove sitting on the benches, some of the grassy areas, or they do what we did & lay right on the concrete (judge if you will, I’d do it again & probably will). The show is announced & changes theming every so often. There’s a calendar posted online. Tonight’s show of Garden Rhapsody was Opera In The Gardens & featured prominent opera songs from an assortment of different operas from the Romantic Era. It was quite honestly, breathtaking.

Garden Rhapsody. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I studied a great deal of opera in college & thus, have an appreciation, but I was concerned that the show wouldn’t entirely translate to someone without that history, such as Evan. That fear went unwarranted. He was just as in awe of it all as I was & walked away from it raving about the show. Again. Simple lights & music against a bunch of manmade metal trees sounds like a hard sell to most. It’s entirely worth it. To quote Evan “this beats any firework show I’ve ever seen.”

Borealis.

On Saturday-Monday, after Garden Rhapsody, they switch over to a program called Borealis that mimics the Northern & Southern Lights. It uses garden misters to create a base layer of fog overhead before they cast lasers into the mix. The swirling particles of the mist in the wind catch the lasers & create an effect similar to the Aurora Borealis/Aurora Australis. It’s absolutely mesmerizing.

We were a bit hungry after all of the amazement & had a little bit of time to kill before we needed to hop the train to Jigger & Pony, so we went over to the nearby Jurassic Nest Food Hall & got calamansi juice, ice cream, & some fries with sambal. Trying to relive Malaysia with that last one I guess. We then walked through the gardens to the Thomson-East Coast Line which we took from the Gardens By The Bay stop back up to Maxwell.

Jigger & Pony, much like Odette, is on a whole bunch of lists. #9 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Bars 2025, #3 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2025/Best Bar In Singapore. It’s won many Spirited Awards including World’s Top 4 Best Cocktail Menus. She is that girl. We got sat at the bar with our Italian bartender, Saverio. He walked us through the menu, pointed out a few favorites, & we were off to the races!

They were on their “Embrace” menu, which used the motto: Embrace Change, Embrace Tradition, Embrace You. It focused on the celebration of the new cocktail world, the traditional cocktail world, as well as celebrating the things that make a person special & the celebration of self expression.

Negroni At Jigger & Pony

My first drink was from the traditional portion of the menu & was in fact a drink of Saverio’s design. A Negroni, but not just any negroni, a negroni that featured Ford’s Gin, Campari, Mancino Chinato Vermouth, grapefruit, & orange bitters! Evan went the embrace you route got the Espresso Martini with Grey Goose Vodka, Jigger & Pony espresso martini blend, sweetened with rainforest honey, & featured a cocoa tuile on top that you cracked with a spoon! My negroni knocked it out of the park, but Evan’s martini was also deserving of top marks.

Along with our first round of drinks we also ordered food. Black Pepper Crab Dip with Toast; Blue Crab, Mascarpone, Rice Wine, & Kampot Pepper. Bomb. The real thing we need to talk about here is the sandwich though…The Bikini Sandwich. Woof. Burrata. Serrano Ham. Black Truffle. That’s it. Heaven. Heaven on bread. Holy wow. Truly one of the best sandwiches I’ve had in my life. Yes, it’s that good. The surprise of the evening right there.

Pony Star Martini At Jigger & Pony.

Our next round of drinks was an alcohol switch up. I know, a big “no no” for those of us, myself included, prone to hangovers. The drinks just sounded too good, & were! I went embrace you & did the Pony Star Martini. A riff on the Porn Star Martini, the Pony Star is Don Julio Blanco Tequila, passionfruit, makrut lime leaf, lemon, egg white (it makes it silky & gives it a foam), & Telmont Reserve Brut Champagne. The passionfruit aspect comes in a half dollar sized boba-like bubble of juice that is served sidecar. It’s fun & light & fruity & ultimately very refreshing. Evan did the Paloma. Off the traditional menu (I guess we traded from the first round), the paloma was concocted with Espolòn Reposado Tequila, lime, guava, & pink grapefruit soda. It also fit the bill of everything I just described the Pony Star with above!

As we were sat there, drinking & eating away, this rather young couple on their honeymoon came up & sat next to us. They were only in the bar for about 30-45 minutes & in that time they have to have ordered & absolutely slammed about 8 drinks. They would literally order a drink as a duo, pass it back & forth, & drink it. As soon as they were a few sips in, the next drink had already been ordered. They were having a great time! It wasn’t drinking out of frustration or anything negative, I think they just wanted to try the majority of the menu & the way they went about doing that was just to full on go hard in the paint with it. Like I said, they were only there for around 45 minutes tops.  It was just a charming scene to watch unfold.

Slinga Sling At Jigger & Pony.

Our last drink of the night was a shared one. I felt we couldn’t leave Singapore without having at least one of the cocktails that the nation is famous for, the Singapore Sling. In honor of the 60th anniversary of Singapore becoming a country, J&P had created their own twist on the over 110 year old cocktail. They called it the Singa Sling. Monkey 47 Gin, Cointreau, cherry, pineapple, & carbonation. Served tall & foamy, their sling was designed to mimic the Singaporean Flag. This drink too was light & fizzy, just with a little bit stronger gin-ness to it.

From there we called it a night. We paid our tab, thanked Salverio for his & the rest of the staff’s hospitality, grabbed a grab, & went on back to the ParkRoyal to sleep off a long day.

Lantern At Yueh Hai Ching Temple. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Day Eleven


Day Twelve


Shutters. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We slept in until about 9:30/10 AM. It was as long as we could with the long travel day ahead of us while still wanting to do a few things that morning. Our checkout time from the hotel was set to noon, although we did try to get a late check out time. Unfortunately they couldn’t accommodate us because the hotel was entirely booked that evening & they needed to get in to clean the room. We did a preliminary pack of our things before we headed out for the morning to run a few quick, last minute errands & hit a few more stops.

Coffee, of course, was a must. We decided to go back to Muro. We’d enjoyed it so much the afternoon prior & I had wanted to get a mug from there that was made by a local potter, but they only took cash for that portion of the business since it was separate from the coffee shop itself. On the way there we ate the pastries we’d acquired from Common Man Stan the day before.

Trio Of Drinks At Muro.

We sat down at Muro, this time by the coffee bar, & ordered an assortment of drinks. Yes, an assortment of drinks. We thought three of them sounded good, so we got all three & just passed them around. The drinks were their orange espresso tonic, their iced matcha latte, & a local iced tea blend. I think we may have ranked them in the same order. On our way out the door I purchased my mug & we also got a bag of their espresso beans to take home!

It’s worth noting that one of the things that Evan & I collect on our travels is ceramics. We have plates, bowls, cups, etc from all around the world. I had chosen one from Muro, Evan had his eye on a shop that had been closed the day before called Late Morning.

Late Morning is a tableware shop located in Chinatown. They have an assortment of ceramics & glassware from local, as well as world renowned, artisans. They also sell flatware & a few other items like soft lights, incense & room sprays. In the back they also have a small coffee shop that primarily does pour overs & simple milkies (as the aussies call them). Evan unfortunately struck out here, but the shop was definitely still worth the time & the singling out that we gave it.

We got back a little later than we’d hoped so we had to rush upstairs to shower, change, & get our bags entirely put together. We ended up at check out right as the clock struck noon. I know they probably would’ve given us a few minutes grace, but we felt that we should be entirely prompt for one reason or another. Cleaned up, packed up, & in the new fit that was purchased yesterday, we left our glorious time at the ParkRoyal Collection Pickering behind & hopped at cab to Changi International Airport.

The Jewel. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

We were very early for our flight, part of the reason we requested the late checkout, but fortunately EVA Airlines allowed us to drop out bags & check in for our flight as soon as we arrived! With a lot of time to kill we made our way from the terminal we were in over to The Jewel to see the waterfall once more & walk around the shops.

It was surprisingly hot in The Jewel. I’m not sure if the AC was out, or if the multitude of windows just makes it impossible to keep cool during the day, but it was warm. This made our time there less than I think we would’ve stayed other wise. We popped into a few separate shops, including The Pokemon Center, but ultimately ended up leaving empty handed.

Striking out at The Jewel we ended up just going ahead & heading through security. Changi has a pretty decent food court & we were both getting hungry. We took the escalator up, divided, & conquered.

Butterfly In The Garden. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

I ended up doing a Hot & Sour Noodle Soup. I am a huge fan of hot & sour soup & had never seen it with noodles before. It slapped. Might need to make it here soon. I also got a Kaya Toast for us to share, some Soup Dumplings, & each of us a calamansi juice, which we both ended up going in for seconds on. Evan got a Bahn Mi & some Bao Buns for us to share.

Butterfly Gardens. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

After lunch we stopped by the Butterfly Garden & swung into 7-Eleven for some plane snack prior to heading over to our gate.

Our flight out of Singapore left 3:45 PM local time. We flew from there to Taipei on EVA Air where we landed around 9 PM following the, just short of, five hour flight. Once we arrived in Taipei we made our way through local security & up to Duty Free where we stocked up on snacks & gifts for our flight crew to enjoy across the Pacific.

There’s this thing that Evan & I do on longer flights where we gift the cabin crew a care package just as a ‘thank you for all you’re about to do.’ Typically it’s all sharable size bags of things like chocolate candy, gummy candy, crackers, chips, dried fruit, etc.. We try to avoid things with nuts for allergy purposes. We also include a hand written note signed by the two of us that just thanks them in advance for their help & patience. It’s a small thing, but the crews seem to enjoy it.

After we’d collected out gift bag of goodies we went to the food court just to burn through some time.

Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport is also a very nice airport. I always enjoy flying through it. Part of the appeal is the food options. They have a lot of stalls that sell mostly local dishes & favorites, one of those for me is Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup. Unfortunately the stall had closed by the time we got there. The other main attraction of the food in the airport in Taipei are the Mazu Village Wheel Pies. They are served hot & freshly made & are either filled with just custard or with crunchy peanut butter & custard. I prefer the custard ones. We split an order of those with a boba tea & Evan also got some curried beef that was served with this sauced cabbage that I could’ve eaten buckets of.

Our next flight out left just before midnight & was an eleven hour trek back in time (we crossed the dateline so it was still the same day), over the ocean to Seattle.

It’s always funny to me when I tell people how long some of the flights I’ve taken around the world are. The thing is that the more you do them, the easier they get. You get accustomed to the time, the seating, the in & out of sleep drift, & you adapt. Your patience gets better & better, you just have to take the leap & actually start doing the flights. I remember when the four hour flight from Nashville to LA felt like forever. Now it’s just a hop, skip, & a jump. My first long flight, nine hours from LAX to Fiji, felt like forever. Now any nine hour flight feels a bit like a shrug. It is what it is, you know. If you want to see the world you need a can do attitude & to buck it up sometimes. I also recommend going through & downloading all of the shows, movies, books, games, etc. that you’ve been meaning to watch/read/play & just marathoning them. I especially recommend the shows or movies that you were like “if I had the time to sit down & watch it I would, but I’m not going to set aside time to go see it/consume it.” You end up finding a lot of gems that you missed & you don’t feel as bad falling in & out of sleep while viewing them.

Olympic Through The Window.

We landed in Seattle as the sun was setting. We flew over Olympic National Park, so the view out the window was spectacular. Fair warning to anyone flying internationally into Seattle. The walkway from your arrival to immigration & baggage claim is a long one. We’re talking like a fifteen minute walk at least & there aren’t any bathrooms until you get towards the end of said walk.

I had been texting my friend Morgan off & on from months to weeks to days & hours prior to our arrival. Morgan is a friend of mine from all the way back in middle school & she & her husband Greg live in Seattle. We had around a five hour layover in Seattle & she & I had been coordinating to get dinner together in that time. I texted her once we got to baggage claim, as she only lives about 20 minutes from the airport, because we were the only arrival at the claim/immigration checkpoint. So I thought we’d be quick. I spoke too soon.

Because of the ludicrously stupid tariffs in place in The US, it actually ends up cheaper for shippers from Taiwan to package shipments in ‘personal belongings/boxes’ & fly in with the packages before shipping them out from inside The US. Yes, they’re that bad. So I would say about 90% of the cargo being offloaded from the luggage carousel was boxes. The only problem was that the boxes weren’t being collected so they were just clogging up the wheel.

No new bags would drop if the carousel sensed there was already a bag/box in the way so I sat & watched as a minute & a half went by between bag distributions onto the belt. I was starting to panic around the twenty five minute mark when we still hadn’t seen an inkling of our luggage, even though there had been cargo being deposited that whole time. Finally around five minutes later our bags came sliding out.

We both have Global Entry, not that immigration was backed up in the slightest, so it took us less than thirty seconds to get though. I’m glad Morgan has left a little later because our timing couldn’t have been better. We walked out the doors of the airport right as her & Greg were coming over the walkway bridge from the garage. We hi’d & hugged & then they directed us to their car where we loaded up our luggage & off we went down the road to dinner.

Morgan & Greg cautiously recommended a Thai restaurant not far from the airport. The caution was there because we’d just spend twelve days in Southeast Asia & they thought that we might be tired of what could potentially be a similar flavor profile. The thing that they didn’t know is that we could never get tired of that flavor profile.

We ended up at Bai Tong Thai. Evan went with his standby of Panang Curry, I did mine, Pad See Ew. I know Morgan got Green Curry but I’m blanking on Greg’s order. Sorry Greg. The Thai spot was amazing, they said it was one of their favorites & apparently it had recently remodeled. We closed down the restaurant chatting away about all sorts of things; our trip, their upcoming trips, the state of the country, the state of theirs & our jobs, life & mutual friends, all the fun things.

Evan, Morgan, Greg, & I.

After dinner they drove us back to the airport. We hugged, said goodbye, & took a selfie right there in front of ticketing. Morgan & Greg are good people & Morgan will always be one of those friends that no matter how much time passes between seeing one another, it seems like no time has passed at all.

We checked in for our Alaska Airlines red eye from Seattle to Nashville, made it through security onto the tram that took us to our terminal then got prepared for another four hours in the air. We arrived home at 5:30 AM the next day.

ParkRoyal Collection Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Day Twelve


Cooling Of At The ParkRoyal Pickering. Photo Credit: Evan Buddenbohn

End Of Part Two & Blog Series

Story: Let's Go Back, Back To The Beginning

Earlier this week I grabbed coffee, or rather tea because I’m trying to cut my caffeine intake, with a new friend. At one point in the conversation he brought up my blogs. You know, this thing you’re currently feasting your eyes upon. The first thing he asked me was “how & why did you get started doing blogs” & it occurs to me now that I’ve never formally had that conversation with you all who return week after week, drift in & out, or have randomly stumbled upon this here post. It was an interesting thing to talk about & kind of piece together along the way as I told him the story but the idea of recounting it here hadn’t occurred to me until today when I sat down to write, at which time I was met with a random passing “how did you get started, how far have you come?” question while pilfering through the internet.

My blog page started as a recommendation blog. I had a former manager who commented on the fact that I always have food & drink recommendations for people when they go anywhere & that I should compile a list so that people can access that information at any time without having to text or DM me. The first one, naturally, was Nashville. I compiled a list of restaurants on one blog post & bars on another & published it to actually fairly moderate success. In fact the blog still remains actively edited to this day when I remember to make edits & feel like adding in new restaurants/bars or when some of the ones on the list have closed. From there my recommendation blogs continued. I did an LA food one next, followed by LA drink, then came Kansas City, which I’m pretty sure is a combination blog, & Portland, which I know for a fact is.

Now around this time the mailing list craze was really kicking off & I went to a seminar about marketing for artists such as myself. Someone on one of the panels brought up that one artist they knew did a weekly blog where she detailed & documented her week & then sent it out as a newsletter before the weekend. This sparked the idea of these now weekly blogs.

I knew I didn’t think my day to day life was interesting or varied enough to entice readers to come back week after week so instead I opted for a different approach. My blogs would be varied. Sometimes they would be recommendation blogs, sometimes recipes since I cook quite often, sometimes they would actually be about an event I experienced if I found that event to be interesting enough for a retelling.

Around the time I started to write blogs happened to coincide with the events & civil rights travesties of the Trump Administration. As someone who found himself incredibly politically literate & in possession of a platform, I started writing blogs highlighting the damage that was being done to The USA at large. Additionally, within that same vein, I started to write think pieces directed towards those reading who I knew might fall on the conservative spectrum about more liberal policies & why they are beneficial. I tried to frame them from the perspective of someone who would be against them to mixed success. I continued on this track, using my blog to post my opinions as well as resources when natural or political disasters struck. It wasn’t until May of 2021 that I started doing travel blogs.

Evan & I ended up in Maui right around the time that the tourism industry reopened in Hawaii. I had gone to finish the open water side of my dive certification & had just invested in a GoPro to grab footage of our time there. I did it partially for content & also so the people I knew that cared to know about my adventures had a place to turn to & get the inside scoop of all the goings on of my travels. Additionally it allowed me to combine a lot of the elements of what I was doing; storytelling, recommendations, etc., into one single post in one single place. The thing I ended up underestimating was the time in which each of these travel blogs take.

So the travel blogs ate up a lot of time, most of them ended up being around a two to three week series that took me around the totality of the week to complete for each. I had to write the stories, link the places, go through edit & add the photos, place the photos aesthetically, etc. etc. etc. but I quickly found that these were my most popular submissions. That’s until I wrote a blog called “No Hate Like Christian Love.”

NHLCL was really a think piece for me, a plea for the evangelicals of the world to look at how they were asked to behave in the book they claim to cling to & compare that to the way they are actually perceived by the world & also understand why “the church” is dying. It remains my most popular blog to this day, out performing each of my weekly submissions during the week they’re posted. NHLCL still garners easily around one hundred individual views a week just from people either searching for something of the like or having stumbled upon it some other way. It has, aside from each of my travel blogs, been the biggest source of outreach & foot traffic to this, my website.

So where are we today? Well, this piece, I suppose, could be filed under “story.” The shape that my blog has taken over the years is very reflective of who I am as an individual, all encompassing. I think, if I were to choose a direction for it to go, it would mostly remain in the story telling world, specifically as a recounting of my travels & the highs & lows of my life. I like to think that my blog has a positive influence on the world, as small or large as that is, but I suppose that’s for you all to decide, not me. The hard part about getting travel content for you all is getting to travel, having the funds & time to scour the globe for my next adventure to bring back & share with you all. If that weren’t as much of an issue, I think this blog would definitely take that shape more often than not. I’m always down for feedback though! I’d love to know what you’ve liked & disliked about my blog over the years. I’d love to know what you’d like to see more of or less of. I’m always intrigued to know who is reading my posts, why, & what they got out of it.

As always,

Much love to you all & thank you for supporting this crazy weekly thing that I do!

-C

Travel Blog: Indonesia: Part Two- Why Do All Of The Good Stories Start Next To A Carpet Anemone?

Selamet Siang!

Welcome back curious reader! If you’re new here the class has officially moved on to part two of this specific adventure, but if you’d like to be caught up I’ll link part one just below this little bit of conversational pretext! Be sure to give that a read before continuing on here, context & establishment are important to storytelling after all!


INDONESIA

PART TWO:



Day Three

We start out this day in the usual way, rising early, grabbing brekkie, then going off to pack up for the full day of diving ahead. The only noticeable difference about this day’s breakfast was that I created my new obsession for the week; Toast with Raspberry Jam & Nutella, & I made a little Jumping Spider friend. I found her first climbing on my shoulder where I gently gathered her & set her aside on my chair, but no matter what I did she kept coming back to me in one form or another. Finally I just gave in & let her sit on my arm & watch me eat breakfast.

For all of you out there freaked out by this notion, Jumping Spiders are actually very personable creatures that have very interesting personalities about them. They will often even appear to look you in the eye & will, as witnessed above, watch people do things out of what seems like nothing more than curiosity. Though now that I’m thinking about it she may have been using me as a trap for the insects potentially drawn in by either my food or my blood. Either way, at the end of my meal, I set her on a leaf just off the dining pavilion & went about collecting my gear.

Our first dive site of the day was lovingly named “Hairball #2.” Why? Well, as it was explained to us, there are two separate explanations, the first is that the balls of netting/rope & the flora growing on the seabed resemble balls of hair, the second explanation was due to the abundance of Hairy Frogfish, of which we did see one, but apparently my camera did not. #MinimumFocalLength

This dive had an abundance, & I mean an abundance, of Mantis Shrimp of all sizes. Not only that, but you didn't really have to search for them, they were just kind of out, cruising along the sand or, in my case, attacking you. We’ll get there, we’ll get there.

I’m going to assume it was the scenery that lent itself to the plethora of decorators in the area as well, from Decorator Crabs & Hermits to Gorilla Crabs, it seemed every few feet near the top of our dive we’d find a new one. Additionally the Seahorse/Pipefish family came out to play as well.

Many of you know how much of a love for Seahorses I have, I used to raise them in my tank at home including, at one point, having an Erectus Male get pregnant & birth a clutch of fry in my tank! I’ve actually been flirting with the idea of setting up a specialty tank for them somewhere in my house as they don’t do well in big tanks with more aggressive eaters, but enough about my aquarium hobbies. All of that was a massively round about way of saying that I saw the. cutest. seahorse. I have ever seen. He had a bit of red macro algae growing just above his left pectoral fin which made it look like he had a flower in his hair. Simply adorable.

The site was truly a masterclass in what muck diving has to offer between the (in my personal opinion) horrifying Snake Eels with their heads popping out of the substrate, the pairs of Cardinal Waspfish, the numerous varieties of Shrimp Goby with their hovels in the sand, Lionfish, Trumpetfish, Carpet Anemones, & Snapper. But, let’s back up one step to one of those Carpet Anemones for a moment shall we?

Here is where I shall lay the chronicle of the viscous, subaquatic affront I received at the punchy mits of the afforementioned Peacock Mantis Shrimp:

So, I’m sitting there, filming a colony of Clownfish & Ghost Shrimp, doing my best to get the Porcelain Crabs as the current rolls up the sides of the anemone. I have my pointer buried around half a foot in the sand when all the sudden a hear a “thwack” & get a sharp pain in the hand holding onto my substrate anchor. I look over & there, puffed up in the sand, is about a three to four inch long Peacock Mantis Shrimp. It is presenting its antennal scales to me & keeps leaning in to go for another strike. What has gotten this Mantis so worked up over my presence? Well, I guess the fact that I’m a good meter+ from its burrow. It had come out a fairly long distance for an itty bitty shrimp from its defenses to smack my out of territorial spite. You can actually hear the smack, as well as my yelp, when it hit me on my GoPro footage. I was however fortunate with my Mantis encounter for two reasons. One, it was a little one, they can grown about a foot & a half in length. Two, it was a “punchy” variety, meaning that its raptorial appendages were blunted, not sharp like the alternatively “stabby” variety with their sharp appendages.

On our way back up we encountered a Male Ornate Ghost Pipefish, a Napoleon Snake Eel, several more Cardinal Wasps, & a Flamboyant Cuttlefish!

Our surface interval was once again supplemented by Tea, Coffee, Milo, Water, Papaya, Pineapple, & Cake. Dive spot number two was Jahir #1. I guess it’s worth noting at this point that a lot of the dive sites in Lembeh had numerical quantifiers as well. This is because a lot of them are the same towns, villages, islands, or locations, just different mooring sites & thus different entrance/exit points & therefore different dives.

Jahir was another muck dive that leans a little more on the sandy side. Here we found a whole host of Flamboyant Cuttlefish (including some eggs), Scorpionfish, Pillow Starfish, Blue Spotted Rays, Black Lionfish, Banded Pipefish, & the like. However there were two very distinct things that happened on this dive & I’m so excited to share them with you all!

The first made me absolutely geek out.

Maybe it’s the fish lover in me or my fascination with marine life in general, maybe you’ll also find this as cool as I did, please let me know if you do. Anyway, I was planted near yet another Carpet Anemone teeming with Clowns. Slightly above the anemone were a school of Cardinal Fish. Y’all I am literally geeking out typing this story simply because of the insinuations it carries. All of the sudden the largest of the clowns, the female, departs the anemone & makes for a piece of debris laying on the sand bed, It was just under a foot in size & looked kind of like a piece of cardboard or maybe a patch of dutch tape. Puri, our guide, immediately grabs my attention & motions to me to start filming, so I do. The clown drags the debris over to the anemone & stashes it right in the middle of it. She then proceeds to duck under it. After a few seconds she picks it up again & does the same, over & over. What was she doing? Y’all. This clownfish was fishing. It was upholding its portion of the symbiotic biological agreement between clowns & nems & trying to feed its home. It was using us, three big, scary, bubble making beings in the water next to the anemone as a tool implying she understands the basic nature of fish, specifically cardinal fish, & was trying to get them to swim under the debris & use it as “shelter” to hide from us, all the while luring them to their inevitable death. Wild. I guess it’s true what they say, the best stories happen around a carpet anemone.

The second thing that happened was actually something I’d discussed with Simon, the resort owner, the night prior. I had inquired as to what Simon’s favorite Lembeh creature was, to which he said something along the lines of “it’s always changing. However, this time of year the Fire Urchins make an appearance & I think they’re something truly spectacular.” That they are. Towards the end of our dive we came up the slope back towards the boat & were immediately met by about twenty or so massive Fire Urchins! I wish the photos & video I took did them justice but they unfortunately don’t. They’re iridescent, they genuinely look to be ablaze with their dark red spines & bright red & blue bodies so luminous they appear almost like LED strips. A breathtaking species of Urchin to say the least! The way their spines move across their bodies offsetting the view of the farther parts of their body makes them truly look aflame.

Following dive two it was time for lunch. We headed back to NAD Lembeh where we were met with a lovely spread once again provided by Tommy, the resort’s excellent chef. Following our exquisite sustenance it was time, once again, to head back out for another dive.

Dive three was Nudibranch Falls. For those of you dear readers that do not know what a Nudibranch is, they are a family or shell-less mollusks with exterior gills that often feed on corals & sponges. They are often poisonous & thus come rather brightly colored to ward off predators & blend into their lunch. As for the name of the site, Nudibranch Falls is a wall dive meaning you’re diving along side a wall, pretty self explanatory. It is named as such because the ascending bubbles from the divers often knock the Nudies from their place of munch & send them cascading to the depths below. Thus the nudibranch falls.

While exploring the first bits of this site it became extremely dark out of nowhere & I’m talking like ‘felt like we should be in a cave or passthrough’ dark, therefore a lot of the pictures that will accompany this section will probably make heavy use of my flashlight, as will the following, but we’ll get there when we get there.

Around Nudibranch Falls is primarily rubbly reef; waves, creatures, boats,…divers…, etc crash against the corals causing them to break & fall to the bottom below where they either expire or continue growing, hence the rubble. The venue had many of your typical reef fish as well as, yes, many a variety of Nudibranch & Flatworm. The coolest incision of the reef however where the Sea Fans that played host to Pygmy Seahorses.

You shan’t be seeing any picture of Pygmy Seahorses from me seeing how the are, as the name implies, Pygmy & my camera could not for the life of it figure out what the hell I was trying to film. When I say these boogers are small, I mean it. I would say the largest was no bigger than the nail of your little finger.

I’m going to throw Sam under the bus a little here just because I find the story to be a tad humorous & it comes back around later. Sorry Sam if you’re reading this.

After viewing the seahorses Sam, my dive buddy & roomie, set about exploring the rest of the reef wall. Little had we all notice but the current had started to pick up because, as we’d come to find out, it was pouring rain above us, hence the darkness. Sam, having been blown backwards by current & not entirely realizing, was mere inches away from running her fins right through the sea fan containing the entire colony of pygmy seahorses. We all motioned frantically to get her to stop moving, which she did & Gigs, another guide, & I came over & pulled her away from the coral wall manually all the while she remained posed like an astronaut freshly sucked into space. She later had to save me from a similar situation where I was blown into a bunch of coral & could not move for fear of damaging them. In either case there was no harm, no foul. No corals or sea life were harmed in the making of this blog…by us anyway.

Another cool discovery on this dive was a Lembeh Sea Dragon, which looked like a mess of hair until we got close to it. Yet another thing my camera said “Focus? Who’s she?” to, the Lembeh Sea Dragon was truly no larger than a bit of wire & about the length of the pad of your thumb. They are apparently rather rare, hadn’t been seen by Puri in a very long time, & are exclusive to the Lembeh Strait. Even Googling pictures of them they’re barely in focus in each instance.

We made our way back through the rain, which I’ve got to admit was kind of fun to dive in. I took a shower to warm up, started downloading my footage, & took a wee nap. Post nap I hit the coffee bar for what would be one of my only coffees the whole trip. I went the LA Australian Cafe route & made myself an Iced Milo Latte, basically an iced mocha sub chocolate sauce for Milo! I took my concoction back to the patio of my room & continued to edit.

While I sat there a squat little crab scuttled out of the burrow it had made under our neighbor’s steps & began picking through the dirt for food. Once it noticed me watching it immediately retreated though not all the way back into the burrow. I sat & watched it remoisten its eyes & trying to decide whether to continue its forage or hide for a good while.

This would be the first day in which we had four dives planned instead of the previous days of three. Well, our boat did anyway. I guess, I forgot to mention that our group was so large they’d split us in two, each boat containing eight people & four guides along with the captain & the deck hand. Our boat went back out to Aer Prang around 5:45 PM when the sun had begun to set. By the time we arrived a mere ten to fifteen minutes later the light was minimal at best & the sun was all but gone from our view. This was to be our first night dive.

Now I’d never been on a night dive before & if you recall from my pre-Fiji blog, in which I thought we were going to do a night dive, I was just as nervous about it as I was my shark dive. Now I’m craving both. I’m far from being a Thalassophobiak, but there’s something about the inky black of the ocean at night that I found rather off putting. My fears were misguided both in this instance & in my nervousness around sharks.

If you don’t know how a night dive works you’re basically plopped into a dive site in the pitch black. The lights on the boat are set to red as to not mess with the wild life below & each person brings along a torch to light their way. Additionally different methods of communication are used.

In normal light circumstances you give different hand signals to communicate with your fellow divers. In the blackness those signals are far from visible so they move from being off the body to being over your flashlight. Simple enough. Additionally when you want to get another diver’s attention in the light of day you make noise; bang your tank, carry a rattle, blow a whistle, click a carabiner, etc. Here when you hear a noise reverberation from the dark you have no idea what direction its coming from, who it’s coming from, or even if it’s a member of your party or another dive party. The solution? Wave your flashlight back & forth like a maniac in front of your fellow diver’s line of sight. I think this method often actually works better than the sound alternative.

So down we go, lights aglow searching for critters what dine on marine snow.

I’m once again going the throw Sam under the bus here, I promise this won’t be a trend in the remainder of this blog, nor part three to follow.

We get down to the bottom, I’m following Puri, Sam is following behind me, & I notice the light from her torch flash then disappear so naturally I think she’s trying to get our attention. I whirl around in search of her & she is no where to be found, lost to the darkened maw of the ocean.

I can hear some of you saying “check please, she got snatched” in your head, mine however didn’t go there until just now when I was typing this.

I continue searching for her, looking all around from the ocean floor to the water’s surface, no luck. Next thing I know I feel fingertips & a hand fiddling around the back of my neck trying to grasp the handle of my BCD (Buoyancy Compensator/Control Device). I look up from the arm now attached to me & there is Sam waving back at me extinguished light in hand.

So what happened? Well, Sam forgot to charge her dive light with full confidence in it & ironically it had decided to crap out at almost the exact moment we were all like “All ready? Okay, let’s go exploring.” Sam’s solution, which I’ve got to say was a smart one, was to grab ahold of my gear & basically hitch a ride with me the duration of the dive, which is the exact thing you’re supposed to do. Only I didn’t know that. So while I’m whirling around in search of her, she was whirling around trying to grab the back of my BCD to continue the dive. Fortunately the Eagle Scout in me came prepared & I had a second, smaller light, to give her so she didn’t have to play Remora with me the whole time.

Night diving is an interesting experience, it’s a completely different world. We’d dove the site during the day so I knew what to expect in terms of terrain & fauna but it truly is something to behold when the lights go out. A lot of the fish in the reef enter a form of sleep drastically reducing their metabolism while still technically staying awake to keep them alert from predators but during this state of stasis they basically go into a less reactive & mobile state. You find a lot of the fish that you would see during the day resting & they don’t stir or depart nearly as quickly at night. Sometimes you end up right up on them without them paying you much mind.

We stumbled upon many ‘sleeping’ Dwarf Lionfish, Pipefish, Crustaceans & Starfish that had come out to eat. We found our first Octopus of the trip, a long tentacle that would splay its arms out, following each divot of the sea bed, then retract them once it came up dry with nothing to grab onto & snack on. Additionally we ran into many snoozing Cuttlefish & a massive, meaty looking Blue Crab swimming about the shallows, hunting fish. You also get the microscopic critters that you miss during the day who are drawn to the light, darting in & out of the beam as you cruise along. (We’ll get more into them on the Black Water Dive in part three next week).

With our night dive concluded we made our way back to base where it was now dinner time. The groups who’d stay’d behind were already digging in by the time we returned but we were assured dinner would wait for us to return from our showering. The Tomato Soup & Indonesian Chicken Curry that were on the evening’s menu really helped to warm the bones as well & it wasn’t long before we were all sound asleep, zonked by the many adventures of the day, ready to face the next.

End Of Day Three


Day Four

Day four felt ripped right out of the archives of a nature documentary. There were so many observed happenings on this day that I don’t think for the entirety of the remainder of my days as a diver I will find another jam packed day such as this, at least where the circle of life is concerned. The day started out early, with breakfast. One thing I really appreciate about diving Lembeh is that you actually get to have the breakfast of your choosing because you’re not dealing with massive swells on the way to your dive site. I think, in this case, it was an egg sandwich day with bacon.

The first of the day’s animal encounters happened without even having to leave the shore. You see, each morning, on my way to the boat I’d stop to see which sea creatures had gathered around the dock over night. Day one it had been a Batfish just off the end of the pier, day two; schools of butterflyfish, but I think this morning took the case of coolest things spotted. Just off the main part of the dock there were a few schools of fish, that wasn’t the cool part. Amongst these shoals was a singular Cuttlefish, cool on its own, sure, only this Cuttlefish was hunting. It was pulsing dark & light colors over its body in an attempt to hypnotize the fish belonging to the schools. When it got closer it would extend out its two harpoon-like tentacles & snag one of fish. I watched it do this over & over until it had successfully snagged two or three fish & it was now time to depart from the shore to head out into the strait for the day’s dives. I promise you, this Nat Geo/Discovery Channel/Animal Plant-esque day was far from over as the remainder of this segment will surely show! Buckle up kids, it’s gonna get wild!

As the week moved on & my editing work began piling up more & more I began to get lazy with logging my dives. At least that’s the excuse I’m going to be using going forward for the fact that I lost track of some of the names of the dive sites going forward because the online log book required me to make a new entry with address (um…ocean?) & coordinates as well. So if I can’t give you the name of any of the dive sites on this here day we shall be referring to them here numerically.

Dive #1 popped off immediately & actually ended up being one of my favorite dives of the whole trip. This one, fortunately to us, dear reader, does have a name. It’s called Angel’s Window. Similar to the Cathedral of Lanai, Angel’s Window is the remnants of an old lava tube, supplying it with a number of pass throughs & caves. The “window” is a massive, 100 foot tall rock, that rests just below the surface of the water & is covered in beautiful reef. Where deep diving is concerned you always start the day off with your deepest dive & always start said dive off with the deepest depth, working your way back up.

Slowly we began our decent down the side of the rock, taking in the fish & corals before we reached the first cave. There a school of Squirrelfish had taken up residence & their reflective silver & red scales flashed the light of our torches back at us lighting up the cavern. Directly below us the rock had a vertical pass through that let out right at the entrance to the actual window of which an Angel, either by name or title, possess. I should mention, the above pass through is where Sam had to save me from bumping into the reef, so we’re square. On the other side of the window we came our to find sand bed waiting for us. Much to my joy, off in the distance I could see the ‘sway & snag’ of a colony of Garden Eels.

I love garden eels, I absolutely adore them. They burrow in the sand in clusters, popping their heads & a good portion of their bodies out, & collecting zooplankton as it drifts by. They’re very, very shy & this group of Spotted Garden Eels was no exception. I did my best to sneak up on them to no avail, but that still didn’t stop me from squealing at the glimpse of them that I had been fortunate enough to gather.

Back to the rock we went where we began to spiral our way up & around. I did glimpse another cluster of garden eels down on the other side of the rock but I ended up distracted by Octopus #2 of the trip.

This was a Day Octopus, a close relative to the GPO or Giant Pacific Octopus. You know, that octopus that comes to mind when we all think of them. Solving puzzles, squeezing through tiny spaces, tucked up by the glass in your local aquarium? Yeah, that one!

It was tucked & hiding away so we moved on quickly running into a rather large Moray Eel, several schools of Box Anthias whose colors seemed to glow neon at depth, & a rather aggressive Damselfish who came careening off the reef to attack my fins. Though after what happened next, I’m not surprised that it wasn’t a fan of divers.

On up the rock we found a rather large school of Klein’s Butterflyfish pecking at the rock. Puri pointed out that they were eating fish eggs, specifically the fish eggs of the Damsels on the reef. I was fascinated by them swarming the rocks but Puri urged me on. Noticing me watching them as we swam away he wrote on his pad “they will follow us.” A little lost I chose to trust & continued on after him. Sure enough here they came, the entirely of the school of Butterflyfish was now following us. The damsel below was just a precursor, a foreshadowing of events to come it you will because the butterflies had learned that the damsels would much rather defend their clutch from something large, more likely to wipe out the spawn, than a school of fish. They used our being there to draw the damsels off of the reef & would then swoop in & pick off the eggs left behind leaving the damsels to fight off the butterfly fish frenzy.

Don’t feel bad for the damselfish, please. The entirety of this trip I had probably a dozen or more damselfish try to pick fights with me just for swimming by. Even in my own home aquarium I had to evict my Staghorn Damsels because they were killing my corals to lay eggs in the middle of the tank & then would fight all of the other fish the came within feet of the nest. They’re a-holes.

The butterflies followed us for a good while, feeding along the way, taking the piss out of the damsels but departed from us when we swung around the north side of the rock & found the current.

I’ve always kind of enjoyed a slight current while diving, the sway back & forth reminds you just how small you are & its exhilarating to start in one spot, kick to ride the current where you want to go, & then sweep back just a little bit. I was distracted by the immaculately vivacious Sun Coral colonies to notice that Sam had completely disappeared. I signaled to Puri asking where our dive buddy was & he simply gave me the gesture of “the boat.'“ Turns out while I was reveling in the current, Sam was developing sea sickness. I scouted the reef for a few more minutes before returning to find Sam applying Dramamine patches behind her ears.

Angel’s Window sits near the top of Lembeh Strait, hence its oceanic influences. That meant we had a bit longer of a trek back south to get to our next dive site. Just off the shore from a small town, dive #2 was a full on muck dive, hard contrast to the morning dip. We sat & watched a small Indonesian girl & her father training their dog how to swim while we loaded up on warm beverages, water, fruit, & once more, cake. Once it was time to dive & Sam’s Dramamine (Samamine) had begun to kick it was time to dive once more.

We spent a good while doing simple observational tasks on this dive. We found a set of Sea Slugs ‘racing’ towards one another & sat to watch them & see what they’d do. Initially we were all taking votes on mating but it ended up being only coincidence & the slugs recoiled immediately when they finally made connection with one another.

I managed to film my second “feeding” of the day as we descended down farther when a Lionfish chased a Boxfish off the mooring line where it was perched & consumed it out in open water above me. Probably was that Lionfish’s last meal as Boxfish are poisonous.

Our dive into the muck included many Hi Hats, a massive school of Shrimpfish, Sand Divers (yes, they are as the name suggests), Porcupine Puffers, several types of Frogfish (Hairy & Painted), a Seahorse, several live Sand Dollars, & a Queen Conch. We even found another set of the same variety of Sea Slugs inching their way towards one another, only this time, they ended up mating! Post dive it was once again time to head back to the resort for lunch.

After lunch I sat editing, milking a Pacori Sweat while editing. All of the sudden I saw movement out of the corner of my eye. There, above me, pilfering through the rafters was a slender brown & grey snake. It was darting around looking for food amongst the roofing. I asked one of the staff what kind of snake it was & I was informed it was a Brown Coconut Snake, probably looking for geckos to eat up there, though normally they stick to the trees. I sat there editing & watching the snake for a good while before it was time, once again to go dive.

Our afternoon dive was at the Island just across the strait from the resort. In the water we went, ears adjusted, down through the muck where I excited discovered a large Crete, or Sea Snake below us. We all gathered around but found ourselves a bit puzzled as it wasn’t really moving. Our collective though seemed to be that maybe it was snoozing, resting, or trying to burrow after food, but upon closer inspection the snake was missing its head. 40 feet below the surface, a quarter mile off the coast of an unsettled island this discovery still perplexes me.

Abandoning the dearly departed we continued down the island’s slope til I came upon a Black Ribbon Eel. Many of you saw the moment I’m about to describe on my Instagram or TikTok but I’ll be more than happy to describe it to you all here! This Juvenile Eel was buried deep in the substrate, swaying patiently in the currents, passing the water through their specialized nostrils that act as antennae picking up the scent of any passing prey. P.S. I knew it was a juvenile because it was black. The adult males are blue, the females, yellow. In our passing we had startled a small cluster of Cardinal Fish close to the eel’s den. (Truly we are a terror to the safety & security of the cardinal fish). The eel immediately stopped its swaying & closed its mouth, looking now more like a blade of seagrass sticking out of the ground. Puri noticed this & motioned for me to lay low, stake down, & start filling, which I did. The group of cardinals, disoriented by us, had scattered a bit & were still paying much more attention to the three black clad monsters in the water with them than the seemingly innocuous blade of grass at their rear.

The fish population of Lembeh are clearly opportunists, many adapting to use human influence to their advantage, case in point. This eel used our presence to hone in one a singular cardinal that had drifted a little too far from the flock & had found itself very much in line for an easy lunch. However, the cardinal was not entirely unwise. It narrowly avoided the strike of the eel but, I guess stuck between a rock & a hard place of us or the eel it wrongly chose to stay in the proximity of the eel who creeped in for a second strike, landed it, & drug the wriggling fish back into its hovel.

Farther down the slope we encountered a pair of Chocolate Chip Starfish before Gigs, one of the other guides started banging his tank to get us to come over to see what he & his group had discovered. Enter octopus #3.

Gigs had found a Blue-Ringed Octopus, only about the size of your thumb, the Blue-Ring is one of the most venomous animals on the planet & it isn’t afraid to show you that it is not to be messed with. This blue-ring, in the typical fashion, was fairly mundane looking, that was until it decided we were a threat & it was in danger. These octopuses, as the name implies, are covered in a series of blue rings. What the name doesn’t tell you is that these blue rings aren’t always there but instead are used in mating & as a way to flash at predators, or in this case us, to back the eff off. The electric blue rings are extraordinary almost appearing to have a turquoise luminescence to them. Never one to waste its venom, the blue ring quickly slinked away to a hidey hole after it realized we weren't going to watch it & that we weren’t fooled by it pretending to be bubble algae or just another rock so we let it be & departed as well.

Farther up the slope was came across a reef with some of the most amazing Bubble-Tipped Anemones I’ve ever seen, massive mounds of Galaxia, huge Feather-Duster Worm colonies, Maze, Bird’s Nest, & Torch Corals. We found Juvenile Sweetlips squiggling around the bottom, a colony of Venomous Coral Catfish dive bombing the sand, & many a Filefish, Cleaner Wrasse, & Puffer tucked in the rock along with a Crete, only this one was alive.

The rest of the evening played out as usual; shower, editing, dinner, more editing, bed. I kept finding myself reminiscing about just how incredible the day had been & couldn’t fathom how Lembeh was going to out do herself, boy was I wrong.

See you all in part three! Have a great weekend!

Much Love Always,

-C

End Of Day Four


End Of Part Two